Battery Cable

[Bob Landry]

in looking over my new trailer, it looks like the cable from the battery is actually wire, and guessing from memory appears to be maybe #8. I'm a marine service guy and having done quitea few 12V installations and upgrades, I'm very concious about wire length, size and voltage drops over long runs. Has anyone replaced or seen a Jayco where replacing the battery feed to the converter would benefit from an increased cable size. I have a lot of #4 cable that's going to be coming out of my van conversion, and I have the lug crimpers and all of that stuff. Just wondering if the time doing it would be worth the benefit.

[Seann45]

Mine will be getting replaced with #1 very soon..

[Devil Dog]

I currently have 2 6 volt batteries and plan to add 2 mor 6V. Don't want to put into the front compartment area to keep tounge weight down - so will try to move the added batteries towards the rear. I will probably need to use a heavier guage cable due to the longer run going to the front batteries. This would accomplish more capacity when running the 2 sets of 6V in paralell. Any comments / advice would be appreciated

[Seann45]

I am in the process of putting 6-6volt batteries across the Aframe on my Eagle308 RLS. I talked to Jayco about this and they told me as long as I use a weight dist hitch it will be OK...

[RoyBraddy]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

in looking over my new trailer, it looks like the cable from the battery is actually wire, and guessing from memory appears to be maybe #8

Bob - I would install as big as cable as I could get away with especially if you already have the cable and a good hand compressor tool to put on ring terminals with. I use ANCOR BRAND marine cables cables and ring terminals here. I got a 8-ton hand crimper off ebay for $60. The #4 GA would be great. That is what I use on my three GP24 battery bank. Definately helps...

[RoyBraddy]

Originally Posted by Devil Dog

I currently have 2 6 volt batteries and plan to add 2 mor 6V. Don't want to put into the front compartment area to keep tounge weight down - so will try to move the added batteries towards the rear.

I am probably going down the same road as you on installing some REAL HEAVY batteries in the tongue area. My problem is I have the best spot you could think of inside the BUNK BED AREA up front which happens to have a 10-inch wide shelf just saying "install batteries here". I will be modifing this room for Radio/Computer/Office area anyway which will probably add some additional weight on the tongue as well..

I am wanting to start out with two T105s and maybe get two more later on.

Where are you thinking to get on top of the dual wheels or behind them a tad. I am planning on getting the JAYCO X213 trailer and dont see many places up there to use. Maybe a lid in the floor in that area and a metal box mount under that... Maybe have to consider a low profile pull-out tray mounted under the trailler??? One guy I was talking too was thinking about installing a large tool box on the back bumper with a closed lid. That might not be a bad idea either. In my case the X213 BED SLIDE would clear that real easy being up high off the bumper as it is...

I did notice from pictures the CONVERTER is located at that end of the trailer. Im guessing the only possible place I would find would be inside the bench type seats by the dinette table maybe... I am already geared up on using sealed battery boxes with proper venting and drain hole going outside.

I'm just now seeing your trailer is a fifth wheel which probably makes a big difference in available space between your trailer and mine

[Seann45]

Originally Posted by RoyBraddy

I am probably going down the same road as you on installing some REAL HEAVY batteries in the tongue area. My problem is I have the best spot you could think of inside the BUNK BED AREA up front which happens to have a 10-inch wide shelf just saying "install batteries here". I will be modifing this room for Radio/Computer/Office area anyway which will probably add some additional weight on the tongue as well..


I'm just now seeing your trailer is a fifth wheel which probably makes a big difference in available space between your trailer and mine

IF you install batteries inside the coach you MUST vent them to the outside... when charging they produce gas which is both explosive and corrosive.
Seann

[RoyBraddy]

I thought I had addressed that concern already - Yes I am aware of how to deal with interior battery cases. I have a couple of GP27 sealed cases with venting hose on top and drain hole hose in the bottom. Has snap rings type catches on the lid... Same as theones used in most fifth wheel battery compartment. Been there done that already hehe.. Thanks for the reminder again...


NOTE Just re-read my post and did make such a comment "I am already geared up on using sealed battery boxes with proper venting and drain hole going outside."

[Murphie]

Seann, I don't know too much about solar power, but if your inverter is rated for 4k watt peak, does this mean you can run your AC without being hooked to a land line? Also how long would those six new batteries last you?

[Seann45]

Originally Posted by Murphie

Seann, I don't know too much about solar power, but if your inverter is rated for 4k watt peak, does this mean you can run your AC without being hooked to a land line? Also how long would those six new batteries last you?

Yes I can run the A/C off my inverter.... but it would kill the battery bank in a few hours... it is not recomended to use high drain devices for long periods.. the MicroWave for 5-10 min at a time is OK I have used the A/C for short times on 100+ degree days... BUT I can run the A/C fan all day..... plus I have the power roof vents... This is the only real drawback to solar.... (unless you are running well over 2000 watts of panels.) Solar Mike
WWW.THESUNWORKS.COM
Only used his genset 3 days this summer to cool his house off. Every other day he was on solar only.... He lives here all year in the SoCal desert.

[mcfarmall]

Welding cable works nice too.