BigJohnD's Mods to 28BHBE

[Sundancer330]

I just bought Timkins on Amazon and they are made in the USA. I had the Dexter numbers for their made in China which I didn't want, I did a cross reference and got the Timken numbers. Amazon sells them by set numbers for both the bearing and race, was only $8 for the outer set and $7 for the inner or $30 per axle. Much cheaper than Dexter and made in the USA quality.

[BigJohnD]

I briefly looked at Amazon a bit ago, but didn't find a cup / cone set yet. That's what I'd want. Timken / USA, purchased in a cup / cone set.


Sundancer, was it sold by Amazon, or was their a specific vendor you bought from?

[Sundancer330]

Originally Posted by BigJohnD

I briefly looked at Amazon a bit ago, but didn't find a cup / cone set yet. That's what I'd want. Timken / USA, purchased in a cup / cone set.


Sundancer, was it sold by Amazon, or was their a specific vendor you bought from?

Yes Amazon was the seller. I have the D44 and used set6, and set17

[BigJohnD]

Thank you sundancer for that info. Saves me some search time. Where does it list the actual bearing and cup numbers in the sets, or does it? Did I miss something? Just saw the set number. Was looking for the bearing and cup numbers in the description and didn't see anything:


Inner Cup L68111 / Cone L68149
Inner cup LM67010 / Cone LM67048

[BigJohnD]

Also wondering if Timken makes a seal to replace the Dexter 010-019-00

[Sundancer330]

Set6 is LM67048 cone and LM67010 cup
Set17 is LM68149 cone and LM68111 cup
I didn't check for seals since I had some from the dealer, but I am sure Timken makes them.

[Sundancer330]

Found this for the Timken seal, Timken 473336, Amazon has them for $7.50 each.

[BigJohnD]

Thank you very much for the info. Saving me a lot of hassle digging. I might just go ahead and order all the stuff and change them out, again, anyway, after this next trip. Gotta love this forum. Give a little info, get a LOT in return. Thank you.

[Marcm157]

Originally Posted by Sundancer330

Set6 is LM67048 cone and LM67010 cup
Set17 is LM68149 cone and LM68111 cup
I didn't check for seals since I had some from the dealer, but I am sure Timken makes them.

I have Lippert axles under my trailer. Will these part numbers cross over to them? I want to add a bearing and seal set to my roadside emergency kit.

[BigJohnD]

The numbers will cross reference to any brand bearing, however being you have a lci axle, I'm not sure what bearing numbers you would have. When I purchased my rig, I took pictures of the Dexter tag / SN on the axle tube, called Dexter and they emailed me the axle build sheet and also verified all bearing and seal numbers. I didn't have to, but I wanted to be able to get parts on hand without pulling everything first.

[Marcm157]

Originally Posted by BigJohnD

The numbers will cross reference to any brand bearing, however being you have a lci axle, I'm not sure what bearing numbers you would have. When I purchased my rig, I took pictures of the Dexter tag / SN on the axle tube, called Dexter and they emailed me the axle build sheet and also verified all bearing and seal numbers. I didn't have to, but I wanted to be able to get parts on hand without pulling everything first.

Thanks John - I will call Lippert and do the same!

[RedHorse1]

Originally Posted by Sundancer330

I just bought Timkins on Amazon and they are made in the USA. I had the Dexter numbers for their made in China which I didn't want, I did a cross reference and got the Timken numbers. Amazon sells them by set numbers for both the bearing and race, was only $8 for the outer set and $7 for the inner or $30 per axle. Much cheaper than Dexter and made in the USA quality.

Can't say how I got it in my head that Timkens were now foreign made.
You just brightened my Thanksgiving

[RedHorse1]

BigJohn, how much torque did you apply to the shackle bolts? Mine came with no documentation and I don't find any useful documentation on the Mor-Ryde site.

EDIT: just found the install doc on the mor-ryde site.

[BigJohnD]

I had called them about the torque in addition to the instructions, as they changed it at some point, I think. I'd have to look back at all my correspondence with them. What you found should be correct.

[BigJohnD]

For some reason 50 ft/pds comes to mind.

[SouthCo]

Originally Posted by Marcm157

Thanks John - I will call Lippert and do the same!

Marcm, I pretty sure mine are Lippert too. If you find out what Timken bearings would work on our axles pls post it up... even if you do it in your own thread or here I'll find it [emoji1303]

[Marcm157]

Originally Posted by SouthCo

Marcm, I pretty sure mine are Lippert too. If you find out what Timken bearings would work on our axles pls post it up... even if you do it in your own thread or here I'll find it [emoji1303]

Will do SouthCo - Been tied up with work and since trailer is winterized haven't done much of anything with her. As soon as I come up with something I will let you know.

[cooper]

Hey, love the top you made! how do you find getting in and out with the 4 legs? I used 2 legs in the middle then screwed a piece of wood into the wall along the bottom of the table to prevent it from going from side to side.

[BigJohnD]

The 4 legs work great on the table. Plenty of room to get in and out, and I'm not that small. My way was just one of many ways to make it stable, your way sounds good as well. I had my reasons for choosing the 4 legs opposed to securing to wall, but hard to explain. Has to do with the floor flex during extend / retract of the slide. Our table "floats" free of the wall per say as the floor moves down quite a bit during its retract / extend. Jayco didn't even secure the dinette back to the outer wall, but instead created a slot with angled aluminum for it to move in. Guess i could take a picture to explain my thought process.

[RedHorse1]

Originally Posted by BigJohnD

For some reason 50 ft/pds comes to mind.

Yup, 50 ft lb was bang on.