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Old 09-18-2015, 10:14 PM   #21
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Looks great so far!!!! Very nice work!!!!
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Old 09-19-2015, 12:40 AM   #22
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3) On this TPO roof, we used another product made by ProGuard that you can't buy in any RV store.
What is the product you used?
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:28 PM   #23
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ecksdude, it's Supercoat seamless membrane for TPO. I had called Proguard explaining what I wanted to do, and what I had done in the past with their product "Liquid Roof". After a little conversation and them discussing it, the Supercoat was the best product for the roof I have. It's been on their a month so far, and pretty much acts like the Liquid Roof does. It did bond very well.
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:38 PM   #24
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Nice job ! Looks good
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:56 PM   #25
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Got the trim for around the fridge made today. No pictures of that, as it's just stained at this point. Should do the seal and poly tomorrow and install it Monday. Also made a contraption to secure the doors while in transit. You can buy latches for fridges, but what fun is that. All this is, is some 1/16" flat steel, a 10-24 machine bolt welded to that, some 1/8" aluminum with padding for the keeper bar, and a wing nut. Cost me pretty much nothing as it was scrap in my welding shop. This is secured utilizing the 2 bolts that would normally be for reversing the door hinge.
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:39 AM   #26
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Great idea for the latch!
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WDH SET UP. HOW A WDH WORKS. CAT SCALE HOW TO.
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:38 AM   #27
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Thanks for the shoe shelf idea John. Definitely want to do that with my 28BHBE as well. Do you have the dimensions for the shelf ? I don't have your welding talents, so I'll have to take the pictures and dimensions to a welding shop here.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:27 AM   #28
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Hey John, did you use a bolt-on 2" receiver on your bumper to hold this? Any worries about the bumper strength?................Thank you, Rick
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:32 PM   #29
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Rick, generator and rack is on a 2" receiver hitch bolted and welded to the frame. The hitch is a factory option rated at 300 lbs. Now, I have gone and added additional welds to the frame mounts just to satisfy my need to over engineer stuff. Nothing is on the bumper. The few rigs in the past that I did put stuff on the bumper, you'd swear they were stock, but I had cut everything off the frame and fabbed my own mounts and bumper. I've built many a hitch for our campers.
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:35 PM   #30
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Ottawasteve, I'll get you some dimensions this evening.
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:44 PM   #31
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Ottawasteve, in the mean time, here's a thread where RickAE did his shoe rack with no welding required. His bolted together. Just a thought to save a little money.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...day-27905.html
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:03 AM   #32
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Shoe rack is 10" deep and 27-3/8" wide. Constructed of 3/4 X 3/4" X 1/8" angle. Use your choice of expanded metal for the grating. EM is tack welded from underneath. If you need any more detailed pictures or a dimensional drawing just let me know.
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:01 PM   #33
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More To Come

Don't think I ever posted the final pictures of the aluminum molding, but here is one of it completed. Other than that, no other pictures to post or progress to report, BUT, stuff on order. Had knee surgery yesterday, recovering now, but not disabled from using Visa and PayPal.

Have the full wet bolt / shackle kit and 3 suspension cross members on the way from MORryde (One of my favorite manufacturers), and a CNC'd aluminum cover for the original Norcold exterior vent frame. Tiffin makes these covers that fit in the original Norcold exterior vent frame for their residential fridges, for rear access. Replaces the plastic vented piece. You'd think everybody did this, for residentials anyway.

When I do get permission from the boss to proceed with actually doing something, I'll post progress.
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:46 PM   #34
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Window Reset

Operation window reset has finally started. I got 5 out of 9 windows done today. No leaks were found, but some of the windows definitely would have over time. You can see in some of the pictures where only about 1/8" of the crappy foam seal was doing any good, and on a few the seal was bunched up and barely making contact with anything. No, all windows have lots of butyl (NOT putty tape). I've torqued the windows several times today as the butyl oozes out, trimmed the excess, and will do it one final time tomorrow before reinstalling the valances.

Not everybody is up to doing this kind of thing, as in taking all the windows out of a new RV. But, do you know if yours are sealed good? Maybe you've run the positive pressure test and have the fuzzy feeling. Maybe I'll take a picture of the foam itself after it's removed. It's a "just good enough" seal to make it to the end of warranty, if that long.

So, for those that haven't done it:
1) Remove inner clamp ring while somebody is outside making sure the window doesn't fall out. Ours were stuck pretty good and actually required persuasion with a putty knife to get them out.
2) I laid the window on a big table and ever so carefully used a heat gun to remove the foam seal. Most of it actually came off real easy.
3) Clean where the foam seal was with acetone, and also the mating surface on the side of the rv.
4) Some of the windows have spacers installed to help center the window, but I highly recommend doing a dry run after all is cleaned up. Some of ours were ok, others not so much. I used tongue depressors cut into 2" pieces for spacers on those that didn't have them, and also used them to shim some of the others up a little better. It's key to get the window centered. Once centered, I usually put me a few pieces of tape here and there to mark the top / bottom, side / side where the window needs to go.
5) Remove window and install your choice of butyl. I usually use the 3/4 x 1/8". I went with 2 layers this time due to reasons I'd have to show you in person. Hard to explain.
6) Set the window, have somebody hold the window in place. This is where Little John came in. He loves this stuff. The butyl is very sticky / tacky, and it'll pretty much hold the window in place by itself, but I didn't want to risk breaking a window.
7) Install the trim ring inside. I usually install the outer most 4 screws snug, then install all the others. I'll torque all of them in an alternating pattern a few times, wait several hours, torque again, etc etc, until you're satisfied.
8) Trim excess butyl from around the window. It will continue to ooze for a while, but that can be trimmed later.

By the way, these are the frameless windows, and they are no different than any other old school clamp ring window.
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:23 PM   #35
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I had one done over a month ago and yes those seals are put in crappy. They wouldn't last. Plus I had to do some repair on the studs. If you have the end of a gutter just above a window is just looking for trouble. It showed up after two years in a heavy rain storm. I used the 6 mm black butyl tape and will do them all in the spring. Don't want to take any chances. BigJohnD you have a great helper @ little John
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:04 PM   #36
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Glad you caught the damage early. I have been lucky so far, but I'm not done. I've got 4 left, so hopefully the trend will stick. Wish I had more of the black tape, but I used all it on the cargo trailer windows. All I have is gray but at least it matches something on the trailer. I've been putting this project off for a majority of this year, mainly due to not shutting down long enough to do it. So, now it's a mad dash, since we don't shut down for the winter either. Scheduled to head out Saturday or Sunday so I better get after it.
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:24 AM   #37
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4) Step Mounted Shoe Rack. I borrowed this from another forum member. I thought it was pretty simple yet genius. I welded all of this one together and then bolted it under the steps. Works pretty good for it's intended purpose.

This mod is an excellent idea! Looks pretty easy as well. I think I'll drag out the mig and fabricate one as well!
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:40 AM   #38
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Hey John, I look forward to your write up on the suspension. This is something I've been thinking about doing for a little while now. At least the wet bolt kit, I don't know about the rest.

Nice write up on the windows too; looks like another thing to add to the list!

Keep 'em coming!
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:06 AM   #39
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I'll definitely post the suspension and wet bolt stuff. I've wanted to do it for a while but the funds weren't there. Recently received a kind donation to the cause from my boss (wife), so here we go. Normally I would just fabricate the cross bracing like the MorRyde X-Factor, but, had the money, saves me fab time where I can do other stuff. Nothing is wrong with my frame (yet) but, I feel it needs all the help it can get as a preventative measure. Heck, the modified radio flyer gooseneck trailer for my daughters power wheels has better welds and looks more structurally sound. Oh wait, it wasn't built by LCI.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:15 AM   #40
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Hey John, I look forward to your write up on the suspension. This is something I've been thinking about doing for a little while now. At least the wet bolt kit, I don't know about the rest.
Same here John. Great job on the windows.
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