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Old 11-12-2015, 08:34 AM   #41
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Thank y'all. Got 2 more Windows done yesterday and ran out of stuff. 2 Windows to go. The wet bolt and shackle kit is one of those things you wonder why they don't provide it as a standard. Dexter and MorRyde both make kits for under $100. You're gonna give me a MorRyde CRE3000 set up, and skimp on what to me is very important. All about the eye candy and what you can see. The stuff you can't see, doesn't sell or attract the average buyer, even if is for safety, to make it last longer, or is just all around better.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:51 AM   #42
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Hey John, would this be the correct kit? Mor Ryde UO12016 Heavy Duty Shackle Kit | eBay
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:27 PM   #43
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Yes sir that would be it.
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:14 PM   #44
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Finished the last 2 Windows up about an hour ago. Here's a picture of the foam seal removed. Not much to it. Was planning on heading out Sunday, but weather's looking not so great. May just stay home and start on suspension.
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:28 PM   #45
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Quick question I'm hoping somebody can give me a little feed back on. Not sure how many people have installed the wet bolt / shackle kits, but there is conflicting information all over as to which way to have the grease hole in the bolts facing. Some say down, some say forward or aft. Dexter's kit is pretty much the same thing, they say forward or aft. MorRyde says down I believe.


Anybody know?
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Old 11-14-2015, 06:32 AM   #46
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Great mods.... We do the step problem a bit different here. Our OFF-ROAD POPUP is alot higher off the ground and the manf only provided two steps. It is pretty far from the bottom step to the ground so you have to be aware of it haha...

We purchased one of those folding steps from AMAZON that has a heavy duty grated top. This can either lay flat on the ground or extend up three inches with its fold out legs.

The heavy duty grate on it is perfect to stomp your boots on it big time helping to keep you from bringing in leaves and other woodsy items...



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Old 11-14-2015, 08:00 PM   #47
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Hey Roy. We've actually got one of those racks, or kind of like it. Had it for one of previous motorhomes. Good as a step (We used it for same reason you do), though doesn't serve well for shoe "storage", which was the purpose of the rack we have installed under the stock steps.

Pictures here are of the latest. This is a solid panel CNC'd out of aluminum. It replaces the stock Norcold vented panel. Really no need for the vented panel at this time since we have the residential fridge. I'm still a little concerned about temps in the compartment, so just testing right now with a couple of sensors in there. I left the roof vent open to allow any heat to escape. I figure all will be good. Still have to paint to match.

If anybody ever does the fridge mod like we've done, shoot me a PM and I'll let you know where to get a panel like this. It's plug and play.

Also, never seen a response to the wet bolt question. Hoping somebody on here knows which way to have the grease hole facing when installed? Up, down, forward, aft?
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Old 11-14-2015, 08:55 PM   #48
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In an attempt to combine all of my mods on this rig into one thread, I'm posting some pictures of mods that were on other threads earlier this year.

So, first up, kitchen skylight delete, with a little twist. I don't like skylights, at all. But, this rig had most everything I wanted, so.... We bought it, but the brain started churning as usual. So, this is what I came up with. Outside dome is coated with a product from ProGuard Coatings, 2 coats. Inside is insulated with batten, then a layer of reflectix bubble foil insulation. Then of course the decorative panel, led lights etc. There is a switch that is hidden to switch the LED's off if you want. Power is fed from the light just aft of the skylight.

Bathroom skylight is blacked out / whited out as well, but without the bling. Just painted the inside of the inner dome and reinstalled.

In the bathroom, achieved keeping the headroom, with absolutely no heat in the summer. In the kitchen, got a little bling, a little cool lighting, and lost all of the heat. Skylights = heat, at least in a RV. All this is part of a few things we've done to maintain 70 deg in our rig in 105 deg temps in the summer, with ONE AC.
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:09 PM   #49
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Swivel TV delete. Our swivel TV outfit was loose from the get go (sloppy install in my opinion), plus I just don't like the concept. Why? Just mount one on both sides. This is what I did. Gutted the whole swivel deal, installed a solid wall, and put a TV on both sides. Now, I can watch my History or Discovery channel on one side, and kids can watch their kid movies on the other if they want. Funny thing though, we hardly ever watch any TV at all. I guess the shoddy install just ticked me off enough to do this. I like it now. Sorry for the sideways pictures.
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Old 12-12-2015, 08:30 PM   #50
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All Jacked Up

Finally getting around to installing the MorRyde wet bolts / shackles and the X-Factor bracing on the spring mounts. More pictures to come, but for now here's the rig up on piers, blocks, jacks and everything else. Took a whole 10-15 minutes maybe to get it up in the air with the help from my wife. I'm an overkill type person, so including the tongue jack, there are 15 points of contact from frame to ground. I feel a little better about crawling under it the way I have it supported. Hard to see everything in the picture, but there's a lot of support. Anyway, more to come in the next day or so as time allows.
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Old 12-12-2015, 09:41 PM   #51
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Finally getting around to installing the MorRyde wet bolts / shackles and the X-Factor bracing on the spring mounts. More pictures to come, but for now here's the rig up on piers, blocks, jacks and everything else. Took a whole 10-15 minutes maybe to get it up in the air with the help from my wife. I'm an overkill type person, so including the tongue jack, there are 15 points of contact from frame to ground. I feel a little better about crawling under it the way I have it supported. Hard to see everything in the picture, but there's a lot of support. Anyway, more to come in the next day or so as time allows.
Subscribed. When you're done, can I borrow your shop?
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Old 12-12-2015, 09:46 PM   #52
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I love doing this stuff, so yes, I'd probably let you borrow a bay. Way more room than what's in the picture.
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:59 PM   #53
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I usually don't do much work on Sundays, but decided to get started on the suspension. A couple of hours into it at a very slow take my time pace and I'm over half way done with it. It is very simple and straight forward in my eyes, but, if you're not mechanically inclined, I'd steer clear of this project completely, or hire someone to do it. Things can go wrong. I'd be happy to help someone do it if they don't mind driving to the boonies, and I wouldn't charge over $100 / hr like the RV dealers do.

You can do google searches and find all kinds of feedback and posts on doing the wet bolts, but I'll throw in my 2 cents.
There are a few things I would suggest having on hand. If you don't have them, I'd consider getting them. If you decide not to get them, there are other ways of doing it, but there will be less cursing and effort using what's in the pictures.

First Picture: Tools. It's captain obvious you'll need a few sockets, socket wrench and box / open end wrenches, but there are a few more things that will keep it easy. First, keep at least one of the old bolts that you remove from the shackles. Grind off the serrated portion of the bolt. You will use this later to help tap in the new bronze bushings. Second, I highly recommend having one of these ball joint service kits. You can pick one up at Harbor Freight, or I'm sure other places have them. This tool will be primarily used to press in the new bolts, and believe me, it makes it simple. Yes, you can beat the bolts in with a socket or pipe over the grease zerk, or use a C-Clamp with a few sockets, but trust me, if you just get the ball joint tool, you'll thank yourself. And, of course the torque wrench, if you have one. I suppose you can always roughneck tighten it or go by feel. I went by torque specs, and maybe a little more. Not pictured, but you know you'll need them, jacks. I've had the luxury of 6 point hydraulic leveling jacks before, but not this time. This time, 2 - 12 ton bottle jacks and an awesome wife to help. Of course you'll need a few floor jacks to suspend the axles when you start taking stuff apart. So, at a minimum, 2 bottle jacks, 2 floor jacks.

Second Picture: Here's the ball joint tool being used to press the bolts into the shackle halves. The same concept will be used on the spring hangers on the frame. Now that you see how this works, imagine using a C-Clamp. The ball joint tool is open on the end where the C-Clamp would be closed. This open end allows the bolt to come through. The piece on the threaded end is open in the middle allowing the grease zerk to fit without getting damaged.

Third Picture: Here's one of the old bolts I kept for installing the bronze bushings in the leaf springs. I had put the new bushings in the freezer for a good while to try and shrink them a tad for easier installation, but they were still snug. Take one of the bolts, and a die grinder made quick work of getting rid of the serrated part. Now the bushing will slide right over the bolt, and you can use this to gently tap the new bushing in. Works very well. I cleaned and greased the spring hole and the bushings before installation.

Fourth and Fifth Picture: Here's what was done today. Wet bolts on the center hanger, new wet bolts and shackles, and of course the center MorRyde X-Factor transverse brace. Tomorrow will be the forward and aft X-Factor brace and of course the wet bolts / bushings on the forward and aft springs / hangers.

To Be Continued. I'll be finishing up tomorrow, and I'll take more pictures of installing he bushings, using the ball joint too, installing the X-Factor bracing and all that good stuff. Today just wasn't a picture day.
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Old 12-14-2015, 12:15 AM   #54
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Looks great. Thanks for the tips!
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Old 12-14-2015, 09:21 AM   #55
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Outstanding work! Thanks for all the write ups with pics. You should put an article in the rv magazine each month.
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:27 AM   #56
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A couple of hours into it at a very slow take my time pace and I'm over half way done with it. It is very simple and straight forward in my eyes, but, if you're not mechanically inclined, I'd steer clear of this project completely, or hire someone to do it. Things can go wrong. I'd be happy to help someone do it if they don't mind driving to the boonies, and I wouldn't charge over $100 / hr like the RV dealers do.
You can do google searches and find all kinds of feedback and posts on doing the wet bolts, but I'll throw in my 2 cents.
I'll be finishing up tomorrow, and I'll take more pictures of installing he bushings, using the ball joint too, installing the X-Factor bracing and all that good stuff. Today just wasn't a picture day.
Gee, and I thought all I had to do was to jack up the trailer on one side and start replacing stuff. Silly me. I'd love your help John but a 1400 mile round trip isn't likely. Keep the info coming, greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:12 PM   #57
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Alright, it's done. I did take a lot more pictures and will have to make several posts to get them all in here, but if it helps someone out, it's worth it.

First Picture: This is one of the original nylon bushings. Some say they can come out easy. Not the case with mine. They all required persuasion.

Second Picture: This is one of the old bolts I talked about in yesterday's posts, with one of the new bronze bushings on it. Now you see the purpose in grinding off the serrated part.

Third Picture: This is the spring eye with the nylon bushing removed, cleaned up and greased up.

Fourth Picture: Here's the old bolt with new bronze bushing. You can lightly tap on the bolt and in the bushing goes.

Fifth Picture: And here's the new bushing installed.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:25 PM   #58
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First Picture: Here's the spring eye with new bolt installed through hanger. The serrated part still has to be set.

Second Picture: Here's that ball joint tool in use. Makes it SOOO much simpler pressing the bolt in.

Third Picture. Here's the bolt seated in the hanger.

Fourth Picture: When installing the X-Factor bracing, the kit comes with longer wet bolts. This picture shows the longer bolt with the part next to the hanger ready for the bracing.

Fifth Picture: The X-Factor bracing comes in 2 pieces. This is the first piece put on the bolt and hand tightened for now.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:34 PM   #59
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First Picture: And here's the second half of the X-Factor brace, along with my beautiful knee I had surgery on (The reason I'm just now doing this stuff).

Second Picture: And here's the bracing secured. There are 8 bolts in the center of the X-Factor. Everything is pretty much loose fit, then the wet bolts torqued on each side, then I tightened up the upper clamp straps seen in next picture, then torqued the 8 bolts that tie the 2 halves together.

Third Picture: Here's the strap on the bracing that clamps the upper portion to the hanger.

Fourth Picture: Here's the finished shackle installation with the load back on the wheels. Yes, I cleaned the grease off of the fittings.

Fifth Picture: Another shot of the finished product from underneath.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:47 PM   #60
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And one more shot of the finished product.

So here's a breakdown of the cost for those interested:
MorRyde Wet Bolt Kit: $101.80
MorRyde X-Factor Kit: $419.40 (This is for 3 braces)
Total Project Cost: $521.20

I debated making vs. purchasing the bracing. I do a good bit of welding / fabricating, so duplicated the X-factor would have been pretty simple. Somewhere around that debate, I received a generous donation to the cause, therefore I purchased. All parts were purchased from Tweety's with free shipping.

For those that follow my threads / posts and for those that compliment, thank you. I hope we cross paths, and just know that if you're ever in west central Louisiana, look me up please. I love to talk shop, or RV.


If you've asked, why the wet bolts, why the X-Factor? Preventative measures. The wet bolts should be a standard thing on ALL RVs. I was fortunate and only had 2 cracked nylon bushings, and no worn shackles. Of course ours is only a year old with 6000 miles. Do a search on Google and you'll see some bad stuff, some as quick as arrival to dealer. X-Brace? Just because any LCI frame needs all the help it can get. They do have some flat bar welded from the web to flange on the I-beam, which should be OK to prevent the I-beam rolling or flexing too much, but I had to go beyond that since I still don't trust it.

As for the thread, I'm not done. To be continued.........
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