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Old 05-02-2016, 09:45 PM   #11
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Nice Mods!
I plan to install the fantastic fan in my living room and bedroom... once I work up the courage to cut a hole in the top of my roof!
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:35 PM   #12
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Your getting it done lol. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:03 AM   #13
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All I can say is Wow, great job!
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:50 AM   #14
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Nice clean work! I likey!
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:21 AM   #15
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TV antenna upgrade

I was going to change the batwing antenna out for one of the King Jack antennas that are starting to become standard on a lot of RV's. After doing a bit of research and opting for the path of least resistance (less work), instead I went with an upgrade to the factory system. I added 2 parts to the system.

First I added the Winegard Wingman to the stock antenna. This was literally a 5 minute job. I raised the antenna to gain access to the underside. Underneath were 3 rubber feet that were easily pulled out by hand. The Wingman simply attaches to the bottom of the antenna using included push screws that fit into the holes where the rubber feet were. Here is a picture of the antenna with the Wingman attached.



Next I added the Winegard SensarPro.



This replaces the factory signal booster and adds the ability to fine tune the direction of the antenna by displaying signal strength. I installed it in the same location as the factory booster. The hole had to be enlarged though. I used the new faceplate as a template and cut the larger opening using a Dremel tool with a multi purpose cutting bit. Despite being horizontal I wanted to be able to see it from the antenna crank. The connections on the back are the same. There are inputs for both the antenna and the park cable feed. There are outputs for two televisions. The same 12 volt power leads from the previous booster can be plugged in as well. Pay attention to the + and -. There are a couple of big differences. First there is no cable connection on the front. Instead I fed a short coax cable from the output on back through the existing hole in the compartment. Second, there is no 12 volt receptacle. I wanted to keep this in the event that I wanted to power the television using a small inverter. The television runs on less than 60 watts.

In order to salvage the 12 volt receptacle I removed the wall plate with dual coax connectors that were jumpered together. I assume this was there to allow one to use the external cable connection with a satellite dish. By disconnecting the jumper the input from the exterior of the coach can bypass all electronics and go right to a receiver. I don't ever plan to go satellite but wanted to keep the connectivity there for a potential future owner. After removing the plate the hole here had to be widened a bit to fit the old booster. I reused the original power connectors here and spliced in new leads to power the SensarPro mentioned above. I took the park cable feed and ran it through the hole in the compartment and connected it to the coax connector next to the power outlet. On the backside I took the TV2 connection and ran it to the CABLE input on the SensarPro. By doing this I am using the old booster almost like a splitter. From following the traces on the circuit board it appears as though TV1 and TV2 outputs are connected together. This way one can simply disconnect the coax connector next to the 12 volt outlet and use that cable for satellite.

Hopefully this picture helps make sense.



The cable with red on it is the park feed. The other grey cable is the TV1 output from the SensarPro.
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:10 AM   #16
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Please post pictures of your bathroom faucet install. Thanks!
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:57 AM   #17
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Logan,

Mods look great!!!

Did the Wingman have new feet to protect the roof when the antenna is in the travel position?

X2 of the faucet pic please!!! Lol
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DebKen View Post
Please post pictures of your bathroom faucet install. Thanks!
Here is a picture of the faucet. I believe it was about $45 at Lowes. The 2nd picture shows one of the valves under the sink. The 2nd valve I cut lower.





Quote:
Originally Posted by need-a-vacation View Post
Logan,

Mods look great!!!

Did the Wingman have new feet to protect the roof when the antenna is in the travel position?

X2 of the faucet pic please!!! Lol
Yes, the Wingman has it's own rubber feet where it touches the roof.
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:45 PM   #19
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Logan,

Looks great!!!

TY for the pic and Wingman info.
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:03 PM   #20
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Digital Thermostat

After reading all the rave reviews about how a thermostat upgrade was ones of the best mods people have done I decided to take the plunge myself. My last trailer had the regular analog Coleman thermostat. While there was a noticeable temperature swing it wasn't overly annoying. After 1 trip with the Jayco I knew it had to go. I suspect the factory thermostat might even be defective. It would run the air continuously and not shut off even after a 5 plus degree change from the set point.

My particular thermostat was a Coleman 7330F3858. This is the run of the mill RV thermostat with hi and lo fan settings. The proper replacement is a Coleman 8330-386. This has identical controls (except for the digital temperature settings of course) and is the same color (black). While the screw holes did not line up, the new one is slightly larger and easily covered the holes of the old one. For the wiring I simply disconnected all power and then moved the wires one by one. They are color coded the same and use wiring nuts.



I did notice that Jayco managed to strip some of the wiring in the wall exposing the internal conductor. Notice the blue and green wires in the photo below. I slid some pieces of shrink tubing over those wires to protect them from shorting.



And here is the new thermostat installed. Out in my driveway under full sun it held the temperature steady like a champ. For the price I'm wondering why I never upgraded my old trailer for all those years. This one is a no brainer.

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