Colin's 2016 28BHBE tweaks

[Logan0171]

First an introduction. On Friday 4/22/16 I picked up my first Jayco. The factory order was placed in February and it was close to 12 weeks from order to pickup. This is my second travel trailer. I had a 2008 KZ Spree that was bought new that we have outgrown and traded up for the 28BHBE. Prior to that we had a pop up for about a year before we got tired of the setup / tear down and sold it to purchase the KZ. I spent a lot of time reading posts on this forum leading up to the purchase of the 28BHBE. This site was extremely helpful to me while researching travel trailers. I decided to put this thread together to track tweaks I make to my trailer. I hesitate to call them mods as that implies some form of creativity and handy skills. Neither of which I claim to have. If anything I hope to document the many hours of research I've done and hopefully save somebody some time in the future.

So here is what I am starting with.
2016 28BHBE
Customer Value Package
Elite Package
Fiberglass sidewalls
2nd AC
50amp service
Thermal package
Hide-a-bed
Sway command
Electric stabilizer jacks
Cargo accessory receiver
Aluminum rims
Bumper mount outside grill



I also had the dealer install a 2nd battery and a cutoff switch. Tow vehicle is a 2015 Ford F-350 4x4 with the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel single rear wheel. Hitch is an Equalizer 14k/1400.

First tweak. Living in central Florida hornets and mud daubers have been a problem. After learning from my KZ I decided to begin bug proofing. So far I have installed Camco bumper ends along with Camco screens on the furnace exhaust, water heater door, and fridge side vent.

Heater exhaust



Water heater



Part numbers used were:

Bumper caps - Camco 40325 no insect bumper caps. These are direct replacements for factory caps. I have previously had hornets build a nest in a bumper stored sewage hose.

Heater vent - Camco 42144. Even though the exhaust vent is square this was a tight fit but did cover the vent. It's actually tight enough to stay on by itself but I did use the included spring clips just to be sure. I'm not sure if Camco makes a screen specifically for this heater but this one fits just fine.

Fridge exterior removable panel - Camco 42148. These are exact fits for this panel. The screens connect from the outside and are held in place with the included zip ties.

Water heater - Camco 42145. This is also sized to this specific water heater.

I have found that they like to build nests in the spare tire under the nice protective cover. Also in the cover of the propane tanks and under the retracted awning and awning arms. I typically spray these areas with an outdoor pesticide. I haven't decided how to seal the rooftop vents. Oddly enough I haven't had a lot of bug problems on the roof.

[Logan0171]

Added this to my last trailer and the wife requested it in the new one. The cover is from Atwood part number 54106 black bi-fold cover. To install just remove the top grate on the stove. Next slide the top back towards you and then you should be able to lift it off. There are two brackets included with the cover and they are stamped left and right side. These attach to the rear of the stove top that was removed using the included screws and plastic washers. Once the brackets are attached reinstall the stove top and the top grate. The cover has two arms at the rear the connect to the left and right brackets. The included instruction sheet is pretty clear on what to do.

[Logan0171]

During our shake down trip last weekend I went ahead and changed out both sink faucets. It was nice to see Jayco try to include a nicer kitchen faucet but ours left much to be desired. Switching spray modes never seemed to completely switch from one mode to another. Replacing it was very straightforward. Even though the pullout sprayer used one hole in the countertop when the faucet was removed 3 holes were underneath. Given that any 1 or 3 hole kitchen faucet should drop right in. Just be aware that the PEX lines were cut to fit the faucet it came with. Unlike residential plumping there are no valves and flex lines under the sinks. Being that PEX is flexible I ha no problems getting the lines to connect to the new faucet but this might not be the case for all. If not it is not very difficult to install inline valves and flex lines if needed. See below.

The bathroom faucet proved to be a little more challenging. While the connections are easy to reach I could not reach them and see them at the same time. This was not much of an issue removing the faucet but caused a bit of cursing putting the new faucet in. It is a standard bathroom faucet with 4" spacing I believe. I put in a model with a high arching spout that also moves side to side. This extra height allows you to actually use the sink under the faucet. I always found the factory ones way to low so you have to reach into the sink to get under the running water. Where I ran into problems was connecting the cheap plastic fittings on the trailer to the metal threads on the replacement faucet. Doing this by feel only because you can't see in there without use of a mirror or something, I managed to cross thread both hot and cold lines causing leaking when the water supply was turned back on. Ultimately I ended up cutting the PEX supply lines and installing 1/4 turn valves much like you will find under your bathroom sink at home. This simplified things by allowing me to use standard stainless steel lines with steel fittings (no cross threading). It was much easier to do this by feel and then connect the other end to the 3/8 connection on the newly installed valves.

I don't have any pictures handy but will take some if anyone would like to see. All lines are 1/2" PEX. Crimp or push on fittings should both work fine. I've read a lot of positive feedback on Sharkbite brand fittings sold at Home Depot.

[SouthCo]

Very nice. Congrats and thanks for posting the info and pics.

[BigJohnD]

Logan, here's a few more mods if interested:

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...hbe-30052.html

Great job so far. Keep them coming.

[Logan0171]

This weekend I was able to get two key items installed. First the Maxxair Maxxfan Deluxe. I've never owned one or anything similar before. My experience is limited to the standard tiny fan installed in the vent openings of most RV bathrooms. I've read lots of information from people that swear by these high output fans. Ultimately I was looking for something that could provide a nice breeze throughout the RV. Having the frameless windows limits how much the windows open. The bathroom didn't seem like the ideal place for the fan but my options were limited. I contemplated trying to get Jayco to do a standard 14 inch vent in the kitchen instead of the skylight. I also considered selling both AC units to help fund a 15K low profile for the main cabin and just install a Maxxfan in the bedroom. Ultimately I decided to try it out in the bathroom to see what I have to work with.

The install was straight forward. Aside from the hardware that came with the fan I used some butyl tape and a tube of Dicor 501. The old fan came out farily easily, Due to the age of the unit I don't think the sealant had fully cured yet. I removed the plastic shroud inside by removing four screws. On the roof lots of screws were removed after pulling back the factory sealant over the screw heads and flange. Inside I cut the power leads from the old vent and attached the included connectors from the
Maxxfan.



Here is a picture topside with the factory hardware removed.



The vent next to the opening did not cause any problems except for screwing in the fax. More on that later. The new flange was covered with butyl tape. I cleared away most of the old stuff but didn't obsess about it. The old stuff being only a couple of weeks old was still usable.



Once the flange was screwed down a whole tube of self leveling sealant was used to cover the new screws and all edges. I debated on what sealant to use after reading about Dicor 501 causing ripples in some TPO membranes. Ultimately I figured this is probably more of a problem using Dicor sealant on a non Dicor membrane. Truth is I don't really know but have not yet seen any ill effects.



The main assembly connects to the flange by 4 screws. 2 on each side (left and right). The vent only gave a few inches of clearance to get a screw in on that side. My "stubby" phillips was still too long. I ultimately used an allan key type philips screwdriver that cam with a piece of furniture that required some assembly. This worked perfectly.

Here is a picture of the installed assembly from the inside.



And finally the finished product.



The interior plastic trim did require to be cut down by about 3/4 of an inch all the way around. There was more than enough room to tuck the excess power wire into the roof and out of the way. Overall this took about 2 hours. The airflow with this thing is incredible. With everything closed up and the vent on, any windows that is opened has a significant breeze. Even from the front bedroom. I tested it with about 2/3 of all windows open and every window had a nice breeze. Overall I will say mission accomplished but the true test will be dry camping. I'm curious about the power consumption as well. I will add some real world updates as they happen.

[Logan0171]

Originally Posted by BigJohnD

Logan, here's a few more mods if interested:

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...hbe-30052.html

Great job so far. Keep them coming.

Thanks John. Your thread was one of the first I came across when researching the 28BHBE. I do plan on sealing the roof lime you did. I figure I will give everything about 30 days to cure first. I do have one more mod on the roof to get done. I will be changing out the batwing antenna. I contemplated the television stand mod as well but the mounting area didn't seem that bad from the factory. I'm working on getting a 39" Vizio in there. More on that to come.

[BigJohnD]

Looking forward to seeing what all you do. I like sharing mods and ideas, but enjoy seeing what others come up with even more. Keeps the mind churning thinking of how to make stuff better. I love it when somebody isn't scared to ax into a new Rv to do cool stuff. That's the story of my life.

[Logan0171]

This was my 2nd project this weekend. Another first for me. Having a background in electrical engineering I have always manually tested every power pedestal I was about to plug into. One of the objectives of this new rig for me was to reduce my setup and teardown time. Hardwired power protection seemed like a natural next step. Another objective of this install was to minimize changes to the RV. I decided that the best location for my install would be behind the power converter where there is already a mess of electrical wires. This also allowed me to do the install without cutting any factory wiring. I simply disconnected the factory main power feed at the power converter / fuse panel.



From this photo you can see the wires. There are 3 6 gauge wires and a solid bare ground. The 3 wires are the large white (all the way to the bottom left) and the large black and red wires going into the middle breakers from the bottom. The ground can be seen coming out from under the red wire and then connecting the the ground bar on the lower right. All 4 of these conductors eventually go into a single black sheath. This large black multi conductor cable exits the back of the converter box. With all power off (AC and battery) I disconnected all 4 wires and then loosened the cable hold down at the back where the cable entered the box. I took these 4 lines and wired them the EMS supply side per the instructions. I picked up a 3 foot piece of 6/3 wire from Lowes for about $9. This was the same kind of wire Jayco used that I just disconnected from the converter. The new wires connected to the other end of the EMS, with Red and Black lines going through the current sensors per the instructions, and then back into the power panel where the original factory wires were..

With the wires connected I mounted the EMS to the wall behind the power converter to the right.



This is the wall between the furnace. I added a strip of plywood on the furnace side to provide a little more substance to mount to. The unmodified wall was only about 1/4 inch thick.



Lastly I temporarily mounted the display under the kitchen sink. It is easily visible by opening the cabinet door.



This was done using a 3M command strip for easy removal. The telephone type data cable was easily passed through the openings where the plumbing runs from front to back. I'm not sure where I will permanently mount it but for now everything is functional. The project took longer than anticipated mostly because of the confined working space and the large wires that don't like to bend.

[Logan0171]

This is a fairly easy and quick one. I was able to change out 1 of the two entrance doors and all 3 baggage doors in about 20 minutes. Here are the parts ordered from RVLocksAndMore | RV Locks | RV Keys | Fastec FIC Locks and Keys.



I ordered everything to match the key of the exterior bathroom door. Changing the latch on the a cabin door involves removing 6 screws. 4 on the inside side of the latch and two more on the edge of the door where the locking bolt exits the door. The inside portion of the door latch simply pulls off once the screws are removed. Pulling the door handle helped to release it. The rest of the assembly needs to be angled out. Installation is the reversal. Be sure to align the red locking knob as that attachment is keyed to fit only one way.

The baggage doors only required the removal of a phillips head screw at the inside end of the cam and then removing the nut threaded around the cam holding it to the door. This picture shows the parts on the trailer.



The cams ordered were 7/8". I changed all 3 storage compartment locks. I did not change the lock on the outside shower compartment. The cam there is shorter. 7/8" is the smallest listed on the website. I wasn't sure if the extra length would have too much play there. Here is the link to the door latch I used. RV ENTRY DOOR LOCK, WITH DEADBOLT, TRAVEL TRAILER LOCK. These are the cams - Cam Lock CH751 Security Upgrade. If you order don't forget to specify the key number you need. If you are matching to an existing lock this number should be stamped on the key itself. My door latches also had a sticker with the key number on the inside.

It looks like Jayco is finally making this standard for 2017 Jayflights.

[DanNJanice]

Nice Mods!
I plan to install the fantastic fan in my living room and bedroom... once I work up the courage to cut a hole in the top of my roof!

[SouthCo]

Your getting it done lol. Thanks for sharing.

[trashman]

All I can say is Wow, great job!

[TWP723]

Nice clean work! I likey!

[Logan0171]

I was going to change the batwing antenna out for one of the King Jack antennas that are starting to become standard on a lot of RV's. After doing a bit of research and opting for the path of least resistance (less work), instead I went with an upgrade to the factory system. I added 2 parts to the system.

First I added the Winegard Wingman to the stock antenna. This was literally a 5 minute job. I raised the antenna to gain access to the underside. Underneath were 3 rubber feet that were easily pulled out by hand. The Wingman simply attaches to the bottom of the antenna using included push screws that fit into the holes where the rubber feet were. Here is a picture of the antenna with the Wingman attached.



Next I added the Winegard SensarPro.



This replaces the factory signal booster and adds the ability to fine tune the direction of the antenna by displaying signal strength. I installed it in the same location as the factory booster. The hole had to be enlarged though. I used the new faceplate as a template and cut the larger opening using a Dremel tool with a multi purpose cutting bit. Despite being horizontal I wanted to be able to see it from the antenna crank. The connections on the back are the same. There are inputs for both the antenna and the park cable feed. There are outputs for two televisions. The same 12 volt power leads from the previous booster can be plugged in as well. Pay attention to the + and -. There are a couple of big differences. First there is no cable connection on the front. Instead I fed a short coax cable from the output on back through the existing hole in the compartment. Second, there is no 12 volt receptacle. I wanted to keep this in the event that I wanted to power the television using a small inverter. The television runs on less than 60 watts.

In order to salvage the 12 volt receptacle I removed the wall plate with dual coax connectors that were jumpered together. I assume this was there to allow one to use the external cable connection with a satellite dish. By disconnecting the jumper the input from the exterior of the coach can bypass all electronics and go right to a receiver. I don't ever plan to go satellite but wanted to keep the connectivity there for a potential future owner. After removing the plate the hole here had to be widened a bit to fit the old booster. I reused the original power connectors here and spliced in new leads to power the SensarPro mentioned above. I took the park cable feed and ran it through the hole in the compartment and connected it to the coax connector next to the power outlet. On the backside I took the TV2 connection and ran it to the CABLE input on the SensarPro. By doing this I am using the old booster almost like a splitter. From following the traces on the circuit board it appears as though TV1 and TV2 outputs are connected together. This way one can simply disconnect the coax connector next to the 12 volt outlet and use that cable for satellite.

Hopefully this picture helps make sense.



The cable with red on it is the park feed. The other grey cable is the TV1 output from the SensarPro.

[DebKen]

Please post pictures of your bathroom faucet install. Thanks!

[need-a-vacation]

Logan,

Mods look great!!!

Did the Wingman have new feet to protect the roof when the antenna is in the travel position?

X2 of the faucet pic please!!! Lol

[Logan0171]

Originally Posted by DebKen

Please post pictures of your bathroom faucet install. Thanks!

Here is a picture of the faucet. I believe it was about $45 at Lowes. The 2nd picture shows one of the valves under the sink. The 2nd valve I cut lower.

Originally Posted by need-a-vacation

Logan,

Mods look great!!!

Did the Wingman have new feet to protect the roof when the antenna is in the travel position?

X2 of the faucet pic please!!! Lol

Yes, the Wingman has it's own rubber feet where it touches the roof.

[need-a-vacation]

Logan,

Looks great!!!

TY for the pic and Wingman info.

[Logan0171]

After reading all the rave reviews about how a thermostat upgrade was ones of the best mods people have done I decided to take the plunge myself. My last trailer had the regular analog Coleman thermostat. While there was a noticeable temperature swing it wasn't overly annoying. After 1 trip with the Jayco I knew it had to go. I suspect the factory thermostat might even be defective. It would run the air continuously and not shut off even after a 5 plus degree change from the set point.

My particular thermostat was a Coleman 7330F3858. This is the run of the mill RV thermostat with hi and lo fan settings. The proper replacement is a Coleman 8330-386. This has identical controls (except for the digital temperature settings of course) and is the same color (black). While the screw holes did not line up, the new one is slightly larger and easily covered the holes of the old one. For the wiring I simply disconnected all power and then moved the wires one by one. They are color coded the same and use wiring nuts.



I did notice that Jayco managed to strip some of the wiring in the wall exposing the internal conductor. Notice the blue and green wires in the photo below. I slid some pieces of shrink tubing over those wires to protect them from shorting.



And here is the new thermostat installed. Out in my driveway under full sun it held the temperature steady like a champ. For the price I'm wondering why I never upgraded my old trailer for all those years. This one is a no brainer.