Conversion to hydraulic disc brakes - add power cord rewind

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by jimgram

I was poking around and found the post regarding Klassic's brake problems at least partially attributed to excess grease on the drums. My drums were definitely greased - all four. I would say I wouldn't have a chance at a quick stop but in fact, I never did. I think it may be possible that they pumped in too much wheel bearing grease at the factory.

I had grease on 2 of 4 drums. Probably why my brakes felt like they worked but not great.


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[Magnolia Tom]

Jim, (or anyone else thinking of disc conversion)

After I took my brakes apart, I discovered like you I have 1/2" studs on the drums. Do you think I could get discs with 9/16" studs and replace the cheap lug nuts? Do you think it would make any difference?


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[klassic]

Did you see my disk quote Tom...I gave them my axel number and they said I have 9/16" studs.
I'm wondering where the mixup was.

[klassic]

Jim can you get a picture of grease contamination on your drums?
I want more pictures to show my dealer.
Toms picture sure is a good one.

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by klassic

Did you see my disk quote Tom...I gave them my axel number and they said I have 9/16" studs.

I'm wondering where the mixup was.

I see that now. I definitely have the 1/2". The crappy lug nuts have it printed on them. I think they just put whatever was nearby onto these things


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[jimgram]

Still trying to find a way to route the wire from the breakaway switch through the trailer. The route suggested by Klassic is not the way I would prefer for a few reasons but is my fallback plan. I'm about to saw a large (9" X 9") hole in the floor of the right-hand side closet. This has shelves now but is setup with plumbing behind the outside wall for a washer/dryer. I'm posting some pics showing where the seven trailer-to-TV are routed. If I can get from the pin-box to the wire bundle under the bottom drawer of the bedroom cabinet I'm home free.

There are several pics so I may have a follow-up post. Pic 1 is the wire routing under the bottom drawer; Pic 2 is the carpeted covering of the wire bundles, water lines, and drain pipe; Pic 3 is the right-hand closet with shelves and right side wall removed; Pic 4 is the hole I gnawed through the floor (which will be behind the wall when it's reinstalled' Pic 5 is the closet floor where I intend to cut the removable panel to far left side of the floor; Pic 6, 7 will be in a followup post - Pic 6 is the wire bundle entering the cavity from inside the pin box to beneath the closet floor and Pic 7 is the connection of the wire bundle to the TV cable.

Has anyone out there ever done this route or can suggest what i may find when I cut the hole?

[jimgram]

Follow-up - Pic-6 and Pic-7

[jimgram]

I don't think there is anything negative regarding the 1/2" stud size. More importantly the correct torqueing - 3 stages, ending at 120 ft/lb

[jimgram]

I didn't realize there was 4 posts I missed - it flipped over to a new page. Sorry. Here are pics of my less than 1-year, 5000 miles brake assemblies. Lots of grease on all four sets. For the record, they have never been serviced since the factory. It was in Camping World for some warranty and newby scratches. I'll try to find out if they pumped any grease but I'm sure they did not.

[klassic]

Are those elusive 7way trailer wires under that drawer??
I searched for hours for those things. I've been under that drawer to hook up my LED awning light dimmer, and never seen them.

Do you not like my route because I went to the propane side of the trailer and you want to be on the dresser side of the trailer?
If so, take the wire to the other side when your in the front cap and pop it through the washer/dryer closet.
I don't see any need to cut any floor out.
The wire comes out of the pinbox mount into the cap area easily.

[klassic]

Awesome pictures of the grease on your brakes!!! Can't wait to show those off

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by jimgram

I didn't realize there was 4 posts I missed - it flipped over to a new page. Sorry. Here are pics of my less than 1-year, 5000 miles brake assemblies. Lots of grease on all four sets. For the record, they have never been serviced since the factory. It was in Camping World for some warranty and newby scratches. I'll try to find out if they pumped any grease but I'm sure they did not.

Holy cow that's a lot of grease.


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[Magnolia Tom]

Jim

Where are you mounting the HBA? I take it you're trying to minimize the length of brake lines to reduce or eliminate any lag time?


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[jimgram]

I think I can blame the grease on my urgency to convert to hydraulic disc brakes - I had virtually no brakes. But I'm glad - I needed a motivating factor.

[jimgram]

Tom - the factors in mounting the HBA were: 1. Short length of tubing for both reasons - quicker response and (I hope) less work - TBD; 2. Protected area - not in storage area; and 3. Easy access to the required wires. I'll post pics tomorrow of the two areas I'm thinking about now that I have the wiring handled. I'm still leaning towards under the sink in the galley island

[jimgram]

Klassic - Mainly where I needed to get the wire on the left side. Also, curiosity as where the trailer wiring was routed. I'll post pics tomorrow - I've had it for today. I did cut a hole and have the wires running to where I need them (including the yellow wire and a pull wire). When you said in the cap, were you referring to after the closet cabinet was removed? I didn't do that but I probably should have

[Magnolia Tom]

Jim,
Klassic was referring to the front cap where the shoe rack is. If you remove the shoe rack, you have access to the inside of the front cap


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[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by jimgram

Tom - the factors in mounting the HBA were: 1. Short length of tubing for both reasons - quicker response and (I hope) less work - TBD; 2. Protected area - not in storage area; and 3. Easy access to the required wires. I'll post pics tomorrow of the two areas I'm thinking about now that I have the wiring handled. I'm still leaning towards under the sink in the galley island

Jim,

It seems like this is turning into the "more work" way. [emoji3]

If I end up doing mine, I think I'll put the HBA the front storage compartment. Closer to the pin, easier on the wiring. The brake line will go along the frame using 1/4" tubing for main line then 3/16" to each wheel. But, who knows, after I see yours and learn of your resulting stopping power I may be singing a different tune. LOL.


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[jimgram]

When you say along the frame are you referring to the bottom of the frame? Otherwise, the sides of the frame are enclosed on the outside by the skirt and on the inside by the underbelly. I guess if you scraped anything on the bottom of the frame you would probably have a bigger problem than a broken brake line. I may reconsider if I can see a way to mount the HBA inside one of these panels: (see pics)

Does anyone know what the fuse panel behind a panel in the storage compartment is for? Could it be part of the "solar ready" option?

[klassic]

That's the remote control board
The solar is the 8ga wires (red/white) coiled up and should be hanging on a piece of wood at the stairs.
Should have a sticker on it.