Conversion to hydraulic disc brakes - add power cord rewind

[jimgram]

I'm getting started on a conversion of the brakes on my 2016 Jayco North Point from factory drum brakes to Kodiak rotors and calipers and a Hydrastar Electric to Hydraulic Actuator. Since I'm already removing much of the underbelly covering and routing wires and tubing I'm at the same time installing a Shoreline power cord rewinder.

Right now my biggest challenge is tracing and understanding the factory wiring. With help from forum members on another post, I found the termination of the tow vehicle electrical connections. I need to separate the breakaway switch from the blue vehicle in-cab controller and get a separate wire from the breakaway switch to the Hydrastar HBA. For whatever reason, they require that the breakaway switch goes to their controller as a separate signal. My guess is that instead of having the hydraulic pump run continuously it may just pressure up and then lock the pressure. In the attached photo there appears to be a possible 'spare' wire - the yellow wire was simply capped off. Does anyone know its purpose or where it goes to next?

[Grumpy]

If it's in the bundle, it should for optional back-up lights on the fiver. (Center pin in the 7 way)

ps: no pic

[jimgram]

It is the unused backup lights. This bundle of wires is the termination of the tow vehicle cable and is also where the breakaway switch parallels to the blue brake line.. I need to separate it and run a new wire back to the hydraulic brake actuator.Trying now to map a route to run the new wire from the pin box area to the the inside of the storage area. It looks like the only option to share a photo is with a upload sharing url service. When I right click on the photo block in my message I get an option to "open image in a new tap - that takes me to the url upload service and you can see the image there. I expect there's a much better way to share photos but I haven't uncovered it yet.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by jimgram

snip....... I expect there's a much better way to share photos but I haven't uncovered it yet.

Check out #8 "How to add photos to a post" in the following JOF thread, may be helpful:

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f2...s-17962-3.html

I use "TinyPic" for my image host: TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

Bob

[jimgram]

Since I needed to remove some of the underbelly I chose to install a Shoreline Power Cord Reel along with the brake hydraulic disc conversion. I'm going to complete the cord reel install first. It will be mounted under the flooring in the left rear of the cabin. I've installed 4 all-thread 24 in lengths to use to jack the reel unit up against the flooring and then will replace the all-thread with stainless steel bolts.

[jimgram]

Trying to share photos of the cord reel and the install location

[klassic]

Subscribed.

Can you post links to your disk conversion parts?
And keep up with the pictures....we need pictures of everything. Even when you go to the bathroom. Pictures.
Pictures or it didn't happen!

I don't know if you have been following any of my NorthPoint braking rants, but what made you pull the trigger on the disks?

And I guess by now you read my back up light thread. The LED's are so cheap it would be dumb not to install reverse lights now that you are modding. Even if you never back up at night, one day you will and it will be worth it.
I think I'm going to aim some lights from the underbelly to the wheels too so I can see where the wheels are headed in the dark as well.

Now, let's focus your attention back to your mod. I can't wait.

[Magnolia Tom]

Exactly what klassic said...
Pictures. Pictures or it didn't happen. [emoji3]
My question is why not run the brake lines along the outside of the frame? Seems like removing the coroplast is a lot of work to hide the brake lines. It would also make for easier repairs/troubleshooting if something isn't quite right.


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[jimgram]

I read a 'how to' article in trailer life regarding a conversion. We got our North Point last April and the braking was always very poor. I read somewhere that the drum brakes needed to be adjusted after 1000 miles but had already decided that a trailer that size should have real brakes. I can't believe Jayco doesn't offer them as an option. I've also read reviews by others that converted and it was things like "I wish we had done this when first got our trailer", but the clincher was when someone said "wow! It was like I was driving a car!"

Tomorrow I'm hanging the power cord reel and then next week I'll start the install of the brakes. The magazine article estimated installation time of 6-8 hours - they don't mention the days of prep and rewiring and removing/replacing the underbelly. I did see one YouTube where the guy mounted the brake lines ON the under belly - looked pretty problematic.

[Magnolia Tom]

I've watched a couple....one from Titan rep Ron Russell and one from a guy named Dave, a member on a SOB forum. Both ran lines on the outside of the frame. I agree, running them on the underbelly could be a problem. Anxious to see your progress! [emoji3]


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[klassic]

Here is my quote from a year ago.
Does it sound in line?
Thank you for your interest in our braking systems. According to Lippert you have 7,000# axles with 9/16 wheel studs. The following items would be included in your kit.

1- Titan BrakeRite EHB
1- Ford Adapter Module
16" Of 12-2 Wire
1- Angle mounting bracket for the BrakeRite (This item is optional. You can deduct $29.03 if not needed)
2- Sets of 7,000# Titan Disc Brakes with new Bearings and 9/16" studs
4- Sets of disc brake mount hardware
4- Spacer Rings
1- Tandem Axle Line Kit


Your cost on this kit would be $1,688.00 and would include free shipping

[Bookemdanno]

I too am subscribed and following your thread with great enthusiasm!
Like they said, lots of pics please.

[jimgram]

Along the outside of the frame would be ok - I'm more interested in protecting the line than hiding it. My one experience spreading the skirts away from the outside of the frame tells me that might be a significant job and I still don't like the idea of mounting the HBA so far away from the axles and in a storage compartment. Replacing the coroplast will be a challenge. On the other hand I'm very disappointed at the so-called insulation under it. I may take the opportunity to beef that up. I'll buy sheets of coroplast (4 X 8 Home Depot) and use metal cross bars whe I re-construct the underbelly

[jimgram]

That's very close to the price I paid for 4 Kodiak rotors/calipers/caliper brackets and the Hydrastar Hydraulic Actuator. I also ordered a line kit which is due end of this week. I bought from eTrailer because of free shipping - the other vendor had over $200 shipping.
BTW, my studs are 1/2 inch - that surprised me on a 7000 pound axle.

[jimgram]

The power cord real is mounted - it was elevated to position by the 4 all-thread rods. They were drive by my wife inside the cabin following my instructions (raised each corner 4-6 inches at a time.

[jimgram]

The first operation (other than running the power wire) was cutting the opening for the access door. I'm not happy with my work. First problem: because of the cramped space, the steel frame for the access door had to be mounted on the outside - it is designed to mount on the inside but that would have made it too close to the reel and reel just barely fits between the frame and the skirt. This means the frame extends slightly outside of the bezel. I'll paint it white and hope for the best.

[jimgram]

Several problems with the power cord rewinder: The switch supplied with the reel is not weather proof and so would need to mount on the access panel door, which it can't since it interferes with the plug end of the cord. I ordered a DPDT momentary rocker switch which is waterproof. My first attempt at unreeling the cord confirmed what I suspected: This access door is too small. It would work if the cord reel was 6 to 8 inches further away - in my cavity it's only about 2-3 inches. So, I ordered a new access door from Trailer Parts Superstore. The cutout for this door is 6 inches high and 11 inches wide, which is the width of the Shoreline reel, so the whole spool will be exposed. Meanwhile, back to the brake project. Checked on the brake line kit from eTrailer and it will here mid-next week. I'm starting with running the breakaway switch wire with a goal to get all 4 of the Hydrastar HBA to the mounting location under the sink by the end of the week, then get the rotors and calipers mounted by the first of next week.

[jasum]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

I've watched a couple....one from Titan rep Ron Russell and one from a guy named Dave, a member on a SOB forum. Both ran lines on the outside of the frame. I agree, running them on the underbelly could be a problem. Anxious to see your progress! [emoji3]


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Tom you and klassic practice and get really good on installing disc brakes..........and then I'm coming to Texas.

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by jasum

Tom you and klassic practice and get really good on installing disc brakes..........and then I'm coming to Texas.

LOL. You can come to Texas anytime! Klassic is a little too far north I believe....Canada.


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[Bookemdanno]

Originally Posted by jasum

Tom you and klassic practice and get really good on installing disc brakes..........and then I'm coming to Texas.

Me personally, I'd rather do it down by you jasum! Especially near a beautiful FL beach!