Electric Bunk/Table height in toyhaulers

[GlampinLife]

So when I picked up my 2016 Seismic Wave 310, during the walk through they said to use the pins to hold up the top bunk when traveling. There are no holes for the table under the bunk for it to be held up, so not sure what just putting pins in the top bunk really does.

We do not need the top bunk to go all the way down to the normal position when you drop both table and bunk. I'd like to keep the bunk up higher so we have more head room to use the table, but still be able to use the bed without constantly raising/lowering both units.

Do you think if I drilled holes at the level I want the bunk and use the pins to hold it there, that it'll hold for 2 kids to use the bunk bed (8 and 11). Or is there another/better way to raise the height of where the bed stops when lower both the bunk and the table?

I'm attaching 2 pictures. Where the bed stops by default, the holes drilled in the track to lock the bed in place for travel with the pins and a picture of how high I'd want the bed.

[GHen]

My son and I were just discussing the same thing in his Stryker toy hauler. We can see any issue why you can’t add another set of holes wherever you need them. Just make sure nothing moves in that area when lowering or raising the benches. Your mechanism may be different than what he has.

[Gogrampa]

On mine there are stops to keep bunk in position when lowered.those stops can be moved to a few “predrilled” positions. The pins as I understand them are placed under bunk in full up position with “sofa” lifting the bed to latched position. The pins keep the bed from damaging the lift mechanism IF it becomes unlatched while driving. Mine states they (both bunk and sofa) should be full up with bunk pined while in transit.

[GlampinLife]

I do not have holes in the track to pin up both the lower bed/benches. I only have holes in the track to pin up the top bunk.


I just spent some more time inspecting how the chain and track work. I couldn't figure out what was "catching" to make the bed stop in place while the lower bed/benches keep going.

Well, there are plates on the track that you can move up and down with pre-drilled holes that have raised threads. My plates were in the 2nd to lowest position. It looks like I can raise the top bunk another 4-6", which is a good start but not as high as I want that top bunk. The top bunk bracket that the bed attaches to and is in the track on the chair has 2 fingers that point down that hit these plates to stop the top bunk. So I would think drilling new holes in the track to put the pins through that the entire bracket sits on would be just as strong.

I'm trying to decide if I just want to drill new holes for the pins for the bed to catch on and sit on or if I want to drill through the metal track to raise those plates where I want them to catch the bed.

[GlampinLife]

I think what I'll do is make my own little plate like that, only a lot longer. That way I can use the existing screw holes in the track and I'll add a hole in the plate and track to put a screw through about 1/3 of the way down from the top, that way that plate can't get bent out and will make it more stable.

[Gogrampa]

You can reposition the stop plates and use self tapping screws. Imo no need to fabricate new stop plates.
Only the top bunk needs to be pinned while traveling.
The bench is in a fixed position to lift chain. The bunk rides on top of the bench up and down either to top latched position or bottom plate stop. You can put the plates anywhere along the path.

[GlampinLife]

I misunderstood your first post, I thought you were saying you had to pin both top bunk and the benches when traveling.

I think I'll take your advice and just use the existing plates and tap screws to go through the rail. I wasn't sure if that would be strong enough since the existing holes you can use to move those plates are raised out to give a few more threads. If you run your finger over the track where those existing holes are, they are raised.

[Gogrampa]

Ya I noticed they are raised. I haven’t moved mine I raised the bunk using a 3 inch piece of iron pipe between the L brackets on the bunk I had to get longer pins and extra flat washers I use the “stock” position stop plate but the pipe spacer adds about 3 inches above stock bunk down position and that works for me I did that to raise the bunk an extra 3 inches in the raised position to fit my “toy” which has a roof rack in under the bunk and bench is swung down on sides.

[BeachRetreat]

You can also turn over the rail brackets that the bed is pinned to. Since those brackets are what hit the silver stops, it effectively raises the bed about 3 inches. However, this also changes the raised position. When mine was this way, it would hit the AC unit before the high limit switch. As such I couldn't use the pins for travel, and I lost a couple of inches of height for the toy.

[Gogrampa]

Thanks Beachretreat I hadn’t even thought about flipping the bed brackets! Didn’t really “look” at them when figuring how to get 3 inches.
Great ahah moment . I can get my 3 inches in height and keep all stock hardware.
No clearance issues in my 222. Thanks