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Old 01-18-2013, 03:58 PM   #11
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 361
Thanks for the info. I gotta get one of these.

Model X19H Expandable
GMC Sierra Pick up

Been a camper since I was a kid, and that was a long time ago :)
From pup tents with no floors, to tents with floors and flies, to a pop up, to the expandable.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:29 PM   #12
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Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,236
I also have the Barkrr jack. It works great and was easy to install. It is hard wired to the battery.

No I am NOT retired. I work full time.:D

Tracy from Central PA

2010 Jayco 17Z Ex-Port
2004 Ford Explorer V8 with the tow package
2010 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 132 - Nights Camping in My Z 102
2011 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 107
2012 Camping Stats
Nights camping 133 - Nights camping in my Z 128
2013 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 66 Nights
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:56 AM   #13
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Location: Louisiana (southeastern)
Posts: 468
Good job, Ross.

Replacing the manual tongue jack with an electric jack is usually the first mod on my trailers.


2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax LBZ, CC, 4X4
2005 Jayco Talon ZX24-E Toy Hauler(SOLD).
2017 Forest River Hyper Lite XLR
Prodigy P2 Brake Control
12K Husky Straight Line WD Hitch
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:10 AM   #14
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Location: Minnesota
Posts: 4,112
Originally Posted by bed685 View Post
People that don't have one don't have a clue what they are missing.
I don't have an electric one! I have not found it an issue yet, mine is powered by a 9 yr old who does a great job, and gets made if I even try.

Someday when he grows up I may have to reconsider.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:53 PM   #15
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Port Hueneme, CA
Posts: 9
Looking at one of the fancy electric jobs also.

I also have to admit to using a bit of child labor (8 yr old son) for the time being and that works great so far. Would like to hear some more opinions on which electric jacks are preferred.
Eric and Jody

2010 Jayco Jay Feather 213EXP
2006 Nissan Titan
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:44 AM   #16
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 84
Indeed, I too would like to understand how you choose between 3000, 3500, 4000#. Seems 3000 would be enough, however, when hitching or unhitching, you need to lift the tongue and the truck to hook up the WD bars.
Enrico and Donna + 2 kids
RAM 2500 + Jayco Jay Flight 25BHS
Mods Done:
Black tank Quick-e Flush, MaxxAir Vent cover, TV bracket and LCD TV, added Slideout awning, bunk ladder, added socket and reading light to top bunk, added bathroom fan switch near light switch, insulated all externally accessible storage, sealed pass through storage from interior of trailer, LED lights throughout, added LED lights to storage compartments
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:17 AM   #17
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Location: Oshkosh
Posts: 186
The manual (hand crank) tongue jack that I removed was rated at 2,000 pounds. From researching this forum I found more people preferred the 3,000 pound Barker. It was a good price and like I said, I didn't feel I needed to go bigger than that because I was replacing a 2,000 pound hand crank.

For my trailer with the WD hitch on it I have to (1) lower the trailer to the ball and couple it then (2) raise the trailer and truck up to make it easier to attach the WD chains and secure them and then (3) fully lift the tongue jack so I can tow. I haven't had a chance to use the jack to attach to the TV yet but once I do, I'll report back with my findings.
Russ & Tracy
Oshkosh, WI

2000 10' popup
2000 30' with triple bunks.
2011 25BHS
2016 34RSBS
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:29 PM   #18
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Location: Missouri
Posts: 138
Ours came with a 2500lb Atwood, picks up the back of the truck just fine when hooking up the WD bars.

2011 Jayco Jay Flight 24RKS
2011 Ford F-150 XLT SC 4X4 5.0L, 3.73
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