Hot water heater drain modification.

[JFlightRisk]

I believe Cliff is right about the type of water in your area. We always had one in our '96 Fleetwood, but it had a Suburban heater. Went through 5 of them in the 10 years we had that one. When we bought our Jayco. I purchased one for it, complete with the drain in the end. It was in for two seasons, and came out looking like it went in, so I went back to the nylon plug. I'm sure it depends on the mineral content, and some other attributes.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by cherv

Our 2019 class c did not come with an anode rod installed. Atwood hw tank does not require one per service dept.. At dealer.

Like I've said before, I had to replace my tank this year due to corrosion. It has an anode in it this time. Cheap insurance. I guess if I was in the business I'd tell people they don't need them too. I did confirm with a friend in the RV business they have replaced many of them for the same issue.

[Spower]

My water heater is a Dometic. I sent a message to them asking about the anode rod.
I will let you know when I hear back from them.

Stay tuned........

[Spower]

WOW! I already heard back from Dometic, this is what they wrote.....

Thank you for contacting Dometic. Our water heaters do not require the anode rods.

Case closed (for me anyway).

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by Spower

WOW! I already heard back from Dometic, this is what they wrote.....



Thank you for contacting Dometic. Our water heaters do not require the anode rods.



Case closed (for me anyway).

That's your choice but I DID have to replace my tank due to corrosion. The anode is cheap and easy prevention.

BTW Dometic won't pay for a tank to be replaced.

[TCNashville]

Originally Posted by Bayoutalker

That's your choice but I DID have to replace my tank due to corrosion. The anode is cheap and easy prevention.

BTW Dometic won't pay for a tank to be replaced.

Just out of curiosity, how long was it from new to tank replacement? Mine's going into its 9th year and seems to be fine but then again, I don't full time.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by TCNashville

Just out of curiosity, how long was it from new to tank replacement? Mine's going into its 9th year and seems to be fine but then again, I don't full time.

A little over 3 years. We were in the same park the whole time. The heater was on continuously. Short time users may not see the problem but an anode is too cheap to take a chance.

Water started leaking out the side of the trailer. I pulled the heater and found a pinhole near the top. It was just starting to seep out when I found it.

[CAG]

Originally Posted by Jay2504

IMHO, it’s not a good idea to use the low point drains to drain the water heater. That will pull the junk from the heater into the plumbing. I have an Atwood aluminum heater. I drain after each use ( no anode rod). Every time I drain it I get a little bit of white stuff. Jay

I have done it for the last 20 years with 4 different RVs and not had that issue yet. Also as far as using the relief valve to assist in draining, I do that every time. I seem to recall the users manual suggesting using the relief valve to stop "weeping" from the valve which is caused by a lack of air space at the top of the tank. It happens at high altitudes.



A ready made solution.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zi0TjHE6INg

[gypsmjim]

Originally Posted by CAG

A ready made solution.

Re. the video...

The reason they put a "plastic" plug in the aluminum tank is to prevent galvanic corrosion and scale buildup. To me it doesn't seem wise to put a brass drain plug in.

In houses with plumbing dissimilar to the water tank, a dielectric union is always used.

[CAG]

Originally Posted by gypsmjim

Re. the video...

The reason they put a "plastic" plug in the aluminum tank is to prevent galvanic corrosion and scale buildup. To me it doesn't seem wise to put a brass drain plug in.

In houses with plumbing dissimilar to the water tank, a dielectric union is always used.

Camco seems to think it is ok and I am no chemist, although I took enough chemistry in college to qualify, so I cannot tell you if brass is going to react. A Google search seems to show that there is not much of an issue with brass and water heaters. Brass is roughly 70% copper which is used in most all water systems.

[vpersh]

I waded through the mud and I think the picture will show up!! Nearly painless!!!

[CAG]

Here is an earlier thread where much of this topic was discussed. In one of the posts someone who made the change mentioned that the threads, properly wrapped in tape with not make contact and he has been 2.5 years with no issues.



I don't have a dog in the fight so I don't really care. JFYI


https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ent-31376.html

[cherv]

you are right, brass and aluminum do not mix. google brass reacts to aluminum. second reason is brass will strip aluminum threads is tightened too much..stick with plastic fitting to be safe..

[vpersh]

My post from a few minutes ago seems to have disappeared!! I was having trouble figuring out how to post a picture. I finally waded through the "mud" and got the picture to post. Anyhow, I posted that the love the this tip and did a variation thereof yesterday using a 1/2" brass close pipe nipple, a 12" SS woven hose from the sink section at the hardware store along with the 1/4-turn valve that was on the shelf next to the hoses. Took a whole 10 minutes to install and now I won't have to hassles with the drain valve the previous owner put in.

[vpersh]

We've been using brass fittings in aluminum auto intake manifolds for decades....never seen a problem with doing it.....

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by vpersh

We've been using brass fittings in aluminum auto intake manifolds for decades....never seen a problem with doing it.....

Originally Posted by CAG

Camco seems to think it is ok and I am no chemist, although I took enough chemistry in college to qualify, so I cannot tell you if brass is going to react. A Google search seems to show that there is not much of an issue with brass and water heaters. Brass is roughly 70% copper which is used in most all water systems.

I was a boat mechanic for over 40 years and there are many applications where brass is used with aluminum components with no issues. Also in marine applications anodes are almost always used to prevent corrosion of aluminum parts.

[gypsmjim]

OK, I'll concede. It was just my thought after buying a house without dielectric unions and having the plumbing thoroughly screwed up.

Regardless, I have a socket, a tube of dope and a wrench permanently stored in my heater compartment. Draining the tank and putting the plastic plug back in only takes seconds so its easy peasy. I don't accept hassle at my age....LOL.

I sell my cars at 6 or 7 years, so corrosion is of no concern to me. OTOH, my 2 RVs are 56 and 6 years old, so longevity without replacing parts is a requirement.

In a previous post I stated that my HWT is only drained once / year, and I got no comments, so I don't know if my procedure is asking for trouble or not.

[CAG]

Originally Posted by gypsmjim

OK, I'll concede. It was just my thought after buying a house without dielectric unions and having the plumbing thoroughly screwed up.

Regardless, I have a socket, a tube of dope and a wrench permanently stored in my heater compartment. Draining the tank and putting the plastic plug back in only takes seconds so its easy peasy. I don't accept hassle at my age....LOL.

I sell my cars at 6 or 7 years, so corrosion is of no concern to me. OTOH, my 2 RVs are 56 and 6 years old, so longevity without replacing parts is a requirement.

In a previous post I stated that my HWT is only drained once / year, and I got no comments, so I don't know if my procedure is asking for trouble or not.

All I can say is leaving water in the tank that long around here will get very black water with lots of ugly little creatures.

[gypsmjim]

Originally Posted by CAG

All I can say is leaving water in the tank that long around here will get very black water with lots of ugly little creatures.

I have worked in Phoenix as an Engineer in the summer and decided to do our activities 3rd shift, so I can understand what you are saying. But, in upstate NY historically the temp has never exceeded 100 F, and this past summer we had a few weeks in the 90's and we still drank what was in the tank.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by gypsmjim

OK, I'll concede. It was just my thought after buying a house without dielectric unions and having the plumbing thoroughly screwed up.

Regardless, I have a socket, a tube of dope and a wrench permanently stored in my heater compartment. Draining the tank and putting the plastic plug back in only takes seconds so its easy peasy. I don't accept hassle at my age....LOL.

I sell my cars at 6 or 7 years, so corrosion is of no concern to me. OTOH, my 2 RVs are 56 and 6 years old, so longevity without replacing parts is a requirement.

In a previous post I stated that my HWT is only drained once / year, and I got no comments, so I don't know if my procedure is asking for trouble or not.

Before we became full-timers I only drained my HW tank when it was time to winterize and I never had a problem with bad water or smells. That was in both Missouri and North Alabama but the water in both places was very good tasting. I have been to some areas where the water had a distinct sulphur smell that I would not drink or leave in the tank. I'm sure the area makes a difference.