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Old 08-25-2015, 10:56 AM   #1
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How easy to convert DSI WH to Manual?

My DSI Water Heater is not working properly on gas, and frankly I had no issue with the manual light heaters.

How easy would it be to convert my DSI to a manual light for gas, but keep the electrical option?
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:18 AM   #2
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Don't know about the DSI brand, but my Atwood's controller is for gas and 120VAC. So replacing the solinoid valve and ignighter with a manual valve and pilot will accomplish a whole lot of frustration.

You can buy a new all-manual WH. Then do a straight swap.
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:55 AM   #3
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Before you replace anything Why not see if you burner orifice needs to be cleaned as insects spiders and other critters can cause the type of problem you may be having. At least it would be worth looking at. Your heater is only 4/5 years old and if you haven't had this problem in the past The above is what I would try first.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:03 PM   #4
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Before you replace anything Why not see if you burner orifice needs to be cleaned as insects spiders and other critters can cause the type of problem you may be having. At least it would be worth looking at. Your heater is only 4/5 years old and if you haven't had this problem in the past The above is what I would try first.
I took it apart and cleaned and put back together when it was not working and got it working, but it is not working again. I suspect it may be one or more of the plug connectors or the ignitor board. Just figure it would be less hassle to just have it manual. It's not the orifice that is the problem. I don't think the gas valve is opening.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:38 PM   #5
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Doug I will bet that if you go through the conversion process you will find that a few months down the road it will not work again.. to me it sounds like you have a different problem like spiders or an iffy thermo coupler.
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:55 AM   #6
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Doug I will bet that if you go through the conversion process you will find that a few months down the road it will not work again.. to me it sounds like you have a different problem like spiders or an iffy thermo coupler.
Never had an issue with the manual one in the past.

As I said, it's not spiders - the orifice and tube are clear.

The gas valve is not opening.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:28 AM   #7
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Never had an issue with the manual one in the past.
As I said, it's not spiders - the orifice and tube are clear.
The gas valve is not opening.
Check for 12VDC at the connectors to the gas valve. That'll split the problem between the valve assembly and the controller. Is the igniter sparking?

Also check for a gas shutoff valve. The handle on the one on the fridge is barely 1/4 inch across and poorly marked.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:11 PM   #8
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Check for 12VDC at the connectors to the gas valve. That'll split the problem between the valve assembly and the controller. Is the igniter sparking?

Also check for a gas shutoff valve. The handle on the one on the fridge is barely 1/4 inch across and poorly marked.
Will check for voltage.

Yes - the ignitor is sparking.

No shut-off that I am aware of, and since I did get it working before, I assume that is not the issue.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:24 PM   #9
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Will check for voltage.

Yes - the ignitor is sparking. Definitely not the thermostat. Probably not the controller board. I'll bet $1.00 on corroded connection(s) at the solenoid.

No shut-off that I am aware of, and since I did get it working before, I assume that is not the issue.
There may not be one. But look really carefully. It'll be small.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:25 PM   #10
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I'll bet $1.00 on corroded connection(s) at the solenoid.
I have a feeling you may be right.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:30 PM   #11
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I have a feeling you may be right.
Wiggle dem buggers and see wut happens.

You gots a paypal account?
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:10 PM   #12
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if it is a problem with corroded terminals clean them and put a coating of dielectric grease (available at most auto parts stores) on the terminals
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Old 08-27-2015, 04:52 PM   #13
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Before you replace anything Why not see if you burner orifice needs to be cleaned as insects spiders and other critters can cause the type of problem you may be having. At least it would be worth looking at. Your heater is only 4/5 years old and if you haven't had this problem in the past The above is what I would try first.
also check your gas pressure. Both my WH, and my oven would light, but neither would stay lit. with a home-built manometer, I measured gas pressure at the inlet to the range, and downstream of the range regulator. my gas pressure was 1/2" H2O too low. I adjusted the main regulator and have not had an issue since.

Be wary of this DIY as you could over-pressurize your system. If you are uncomfortable, then have it done. Youtube has a couple of decent videos on this repair.

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Old 08-27-2015, 08:15 PM   #14
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I didn't know propane regulators were adjustable.

And I forgot to mention kinked hoses under the RV as another possible problem.
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Old 08-28-2015, 12:03 PM   #15
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I didn't know propane regulators were adjustable.

And I forgot to mention kinked hoses under the RV as another possible problem.
The second stage of you two stage regulator at the tanks is adjustable. underneath the dust cover is a socket head screw that adjusts the pressure on the diaphragm. tighten it to increase TT propane pressure, loosen it to lower pressure.

DON'T MAKE ADJUSTMENTS UNLESS YOU HAVE A PRESSURE METER HOOKED UP (MANOMETER).

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Old 08-28-2015, 01:17 PM   #16
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Use a Manometer rather than a gauge I have seen too many gauges give false readings.
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Old 08-28-2015, 02:00 PM   #17
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Use a Manometer rather than a gauge I have seen too many gauges give false readings.
Considering that 11"WC is just under 1/2 of 1 PSI.....

IF I ever decide that my propane regulator is in need of adjustment, I'll just replace the thing. It's a whole lot cheaper than finding, buying and figuring out how to use the correct and accurate gauge.

Besides, my flammable gasses paranoia leaves me with: If it has worn so badly (or is so old) that it needs adjustment, it should be replaced anyway.

Better safe than confused....
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:22 AM   #18
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Just to close off this thread - I finally got this fixed. The gas valve was bad. I replaced it and it's working great!
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:27 AM   #19
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Just to close off this thread - I finally got this fixed. The gas valve was bad. I replaced it and it's working great!
Thank you. It is very helpful when folks let everyone know.
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:45 AM   #20
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thank you. It is very helpful when folks let everyone know.
x2 - ^^^
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