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Old 08-25-2015, 11:56 AM   #1
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How easy to convert DSI WH to Manual?

My DSI Water Heater is not working properly on gas, and frankly I had no issue with the manual light heaters.

How easy would it be to convert my DSI to a manual light for gas, but keep the electrical option?
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:18 PM   #2
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Don't know about the DSI brand, but my Atwood's controller is for gas and 120VAC. So replacing the solinoid valve and ignighter with a manual valve and pilot will accomplish a whole lot of frustration.

You can buy a new all-manual WH. Then do a straight swap.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:55 PM   #3
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Before you replace anything Why not see if you burner orifice needs to be cleaned as insects spiders and other critters can cause the type of problem you may be having. At least it would be worth looking at. Your heater is only 4/5 years old and if you haven't had this problem in the past The above is what I would try first.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:03 PM   #4
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Before you replace anything Why not see if you burner orifice needs to be cleaned as insects spiders and other critters can cause the type of problem you may be having. At least it would be worth looking at. Your heater is only 4/5 years old and if you haven't had this problem in the past The above is what I would try first.
I took it apart and cleaned and put back together when it was not working and got it working, but it is not working again. I suspect it may be one or more of the plug connectors or the ignitor board. Just figure it would be less hassle to just have it manual. It's not the orifice that is the problem. I don't think the gas valve is opening.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:38 PM   #5
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Doug I will bet that if you go through the conversion process you will find that a few months down the road it will not work again.. to me it sounds like you have a different problem like spiders or an iffy thermo coupler.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:55 AM   #6
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Doug I will bet that if you go through the conversion process you will find that a few months down the road it will not work again.. to me it sounds like you have a different problem like spiders or an iffy thermo coupler.
Never had an issue with the manual one in the past.

As I said, it's not spiders - the orifice and tube are clear.

The gas valve is not opening.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:28 AM   #7
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Never had an issue with the manual one in the past.
As I said, it's not spiders - the orifice and tube are clear.
The gas valve is not opening.
Check for 12VDC at the connectors to the gas valve. That'll split the problem between the valve assembly and the controller. Is the igniter sparking?

Also check for a gas shutoff valve. The handle on the one on the fridge is barely 1/4 inch across and poorly marked.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:11 PM   #8
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Check for 12VDC at the connectors to the gas valve. That'll split the problem between the valve assembly and the controller. Is the igniter sparking?

Also check for a gas shutoff valve. The handle on the one on the fridge is barely 1/4 inch across and poorly marked.
Will check for voltage.

Yes - the ignitor is sparking.

No shut-off that I am aware of, and since I did get it working before, I assume that is not the issue.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:24 PM   #9
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Will check for voltage.

Yes - the ignitor is sparking. Definitely not the thermostat. Probably not the controller board. I'll bet $1.00 on corroded connection(s) at the solenoid.

No shut-off that I am aware of, and since I did get it working before, I assume that is not the issue.
There may not be one. But look really carefully. It'll be small.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:25 PM   #10
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I'll bet $1.00 on corroded connection(s) at the solenoid.
I have a feeling you may be right.
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