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Old 04-06-2015, 09:44 AM   #11
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Would like to see a pic of how the spring loaded factory piece works if anyone has one. I can't believe they built it this way, or maybe mine is missing something. I tried moving the marker light over but the hole is at the extreme edge and would show. I guess I could fill the hole with something.
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:55 AM   #12
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A baggage door latch would do it. They make them with a longer reach if clearance is a issue. Even seen them in Walmart camping section.

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Old 04-06-2015, 12:30 PM   #13
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Maybe install a gas strut prop?
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:35 PM   #14
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Here is the inexpensive fix
Rounded Baggage Door Catch - White - RV Designer E211 - Compartment and Hatch Hardware - Camping World
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:57 PM   #15
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X2. I did this on our old trailer. Our X20E came with it installed from the factory. Just use two small screws right into the fiberglass. Make sure to fill in around the screws with caulking.
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Old 04-06-2015, 05:05 PM   #16
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The bigger storage door in my 2014 WHawk has a latch device the same as is used to hold most main doors open. Guess they used it instead of the spring loaded latch due to the extra width and weight of this storage door.
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Old 04-06-2015, 05:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunce the traveler View Post
You might be able to move that marker light over just enough to open the hatch all the way. If you pull the lense off you should see just a small hole where the wires come through. Well that hole doesn't have to be in the center, it can be off set. If that won't work would you consider turning that light 90deg.( vertical ) I know that would work. Then all you would need is the regular latch we all have for those doors.
Of all the posts here, this is the one that makes the most sense (for that matter, the only one to make sense). All the clips shown won't reach far enough to catch the door because the light won't let it swing up far enough (what was Jayco thinking, anyway, when they put that light there?). The wire hole in RV wall can be slotted slightly to allow moving the wires over more, if necessary. A rattail file or a Dremel tool and bit would take carte of that in short order.

It might be necessary to fill in an exposed screw hole after shifting the light away from the door enough but that isn't difficult. A quick and dirty way to do that would just to put some sealant on the threads of a screw and screw it into the hole. Bondo followed up by touchup paint would look more sanitary.
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Old 04-06-2015, 05:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Of all the posts here, this is the one that makes the most sense (for that matter, the only one to make sense).
Wouldn't a 3-1/2" to 6" T-Latch work effectively? http://smile.amazon.com/JR-Products-...=rv+door+latch
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Old 04-06-2015, 06:13 PM   #19
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I think I will go with the baggage style latch like you guys posted. I will move the marker light over and fill one screw hole that will become exposed. Now what style screws should I use to mount the baggage clip? Will regular screws do ok in the fiberglass? Thanks all.
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Old 04-06-2015, 06:35 PM   #20
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Don't have to reinvent the wheel. Here is another one that will work. You can get them in any length.

RV Entry Door Catch Latch Holder 4" White Cargo Car Travel Trailer Toy Hauler | eBay
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