I Need a Door Prop, Idea's Needed

[silverta16]

I have this access door where I store my BAL Leveler, Toolbox, And my hitches, I'm always doing some sort of head balance holding it up and lifting stuff in with both hands. Has anyone fixed a prop rod or have any ideas? He door will not go all the way up due to hitting the marker light on the right.

[Heady]

Mine has this sort of spring loaded clip that holds it up/open. It is attached to the camper and you just open it and connect to door to keep it up. I believe they are readily available.

[Parcany]

What about using the prop that holds the main door open. might have to turn the door part around but that might work.

[Todd Klassy]

I would contact your dealer and ask them to order Jayco's spring loaded clip. I bet it's inexpensive and it looks easy to install.

[Tunce the traveler]

You might be able to move that marker light over just enough to open the hatch all the way. If you pull the lense off you should see just a small hole where the wires come through. Well that hole doesn't have to be in the center, it can be off set. If that won't work would you consider turning that light 90deg.( vertical ) I know that would work. Then all you would need is the regular latch we all have for those doors.

[Skaling]

What about flipping the door so the hinge is on the bottom and the locks are on the top?

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Skaling

What about flipping the door so the hinge is on the bottom and the locks are on the top?

Major water leak.

[3'senough]

You need one of these with a tube of good sealant due to the space you have between door and trailer.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...7Q6DFKMBSKW9HN

[Hattie]

Normally I'd say "duct tape" fixes everything, but from looking at your pictures - is a bungee cord an option with your awning pillar? Baling-wire and bubble-gum don't seem to be candidates here.

Getting real - our outside BBQ has a "T-latch", maybe you can find/install one that would work?

[Brownie]

Isn't that what kids are for?

3'senough's solution seem like the best fix to me.

[silverta16]

Would like to see a pic of how the spring loaded factory piece works if anyone has one. I can't believe they built it this way, or maybe mine is missing something. I tried moving the marker light over but the hole is at the extreme edge and would show. I guess I could fill the hole with something.

[norty1]

A baggage door latch would do it. They make them with a longer reach if clearance is a issue. Even seen them in Walmart camping section.

http://www.googleadservices.com/page...e.html&cad=rja

[nylyon]

Maybe install a gas strut prop?

[Seann45]

Here is the inexpensive fix
Rounded Baggage Door Catch - White - RV Designer E211 - Compartment and Hatch Hardware - Camping World

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by Seann45

Here is the inexpensive fix
Rounded Baggage Door Catch - White - RV Designer E211 - Compartment and Hatch Hardware - Camping World

X2. I did this on our old trailer. Our X20E came with it installed from the factory. Just use two small screws right into the fiberglass. Make sure to fill in around the screws with caulking.

[Bassdogs]

The bigger storage door in my 2014 WHawk has a latch device the same as is used to hold most main doors open. Guess they used it instead of the spring loaded latch due to the extra width and weight of this storage door.

[Lady Fitzgerald]

Originally Posted by Tunce the traveler

You might be able to move that marker light over just enough to open the hatch all the way. If you pull the lense off you should see just a small hole where the wires come through. Well that hole doesn't have to be in the center, it can be off set. If that won't work would you consider turning that light 90deg.( vertical ) I know that would work. Then all you would need is the regular latch we all have for those doors.

Of all the posts here, this is the one that makes the most sense (for that matter, the only one to make sense). All the clips shown won't reach far enough to catch the door because the light won't let it swing up far enough (what was Jayco thinking, anyway, when they put that light there?). The wire hole in RV wall can be slotted slightly to allow moving the wires over more, if necessary. A rattail file or a Dremel tool and bit would take carte of that in short order.

It might be necessary to fill in an exposed screw hole after shifting the light away from the door enough but that isn't difficult. A quick and dirty way to do that would just to put some sealant on the threads of a screw and screw it into the hole. Bondo followed up by touchup paint would look more sanitary.

[Hattie]

Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald

Of all the posts here, this is the one that makes the most sense (for that matter, the only one to make sense).

Wouldn't a 3-1/2" to 6" T-Latch work effectively? http://smile.amazon.com/JR-Products-...=rv+door+latch

[silverta16]

I think I will go with the baggage style latch like you guys posted. I will move the marker light over and fill one screw hole that will become exposed. Now what style screws should I use to mount the baggage clip? Will regular screws do ok in the fiberglass? Thanks all.

[norty1]

Don't have to reinvent the wheel. Here is another one that will work. You can get them in any length.

RV Entry Door Catch Latch Holder 4" White Cargo Car Travel Trailer Toy Hauler | eBay