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Old 01-18-2013, 10:10 PM   #1
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Jagiven's Avatar
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 8,257
Installing AUX Power Points in a Hybrid (X23B)

I wrote this as a PM to a few people and decided that I would post it here for everyone else to understand how it was done, and so I do not have to re-write it.

The power points are all 12V, they are very similar to the AUX power points in your TV. I terminated the wires behind the converter under the rear bunk. If you look closely at the fuses inside the converter you will notice all slots have a fuse in them. If you pull out the converter, you will notice there are about 4 pigtails for other items that our 23B’s does not have. The pigtails you see behind the converter are there so one converter can be used out of the box for any TT. I located the pigtail for the fuse labeled something like “bunk end lights”. This was an unused fuse location, and my choice to tie into due to the name on the panel.

I was concerned about pulling out the converter (I think it was secured via 4 screws), as it was a tight, basically the hole, was built to just fit the converter, with no wiggle room. Once I had it pulled partially out I found a wire clamp on the floor that secured the shore power cord that I removed which allowed me to pull the converter much further out.

As to install the power points, I decided where I wanted them; and I installed them about where I have seen them in the 2013 23B brochures.

To install the back bunk power point I removed the little false panel in the OHC. That allowed access to the space behind the bathroom wall and the rear of the TT. It was only secured with 2 or 3 staples, but it was the hardest panel for me to remove. When I was done I reinstalled it with some double face automotive molding tape, for future access. Then removed the 110V outlet for the rear bunk. I used this hole to help me fish the wires up to the OHC. I then measured the distance from the bathroom wall corner to the center of the 110V outlet. I then drilled a hole (right angle drill is required) in the bathroom wall that corresponded to that location in the OHC. I then took a piece of heavy twine and tied a few nuts to one end and I fished it down the new hole. Maybe I got lucky but I reached into the hole where the converter is located and found the factor hole where the 110V power cable goes through and my twine was right there in the opening. I grabbed the twine and pulled it out into the hall area and tied my wires to it securely. I pulled it back up slowly. From there it was fairly easy to mount the power point and put the rear bunk area back together.

I did the front bunk while I had the converter out. This was a challenge to get the wire to the front of the TT. The issues are trying to pull the wire around the back corner of the shower while not being able to reach. I have something called a wire fish. It took me about an hour to get the wire fish around the back corner. To do it, in the bathroom remove the false panel in the lower part of the cabinet (never replaced it, it is now my toilet chemical storage area). Laid on my belly and look back there to see where the wire fish had to go. I would guess it took me an hour of actual work to get the wire fish where I needed. I stepped away a few times out of frustration and being uncomfortable. Once I had the fish ran from the bathroom sink base to the converter I added a twine and the wires and pulled it to the sink cabinet. I tied both ends twine off to ensure that it did not get pulled by accident, and left the twine for any future wire pulls. Then removed the false panel under the sofa (I never did put that back, that is my shoe storage area). Then started pulling the wires forwards to the water heater cabinet. Then the wires were pulled to the front storage cabinet. Were I drilled a very small hole in the upper corner to pull the wires into the living compartment (see my picture in the dinette mod post and bunk end lights post in the signature line). Then I removed the metal decorative trim that helps protect the canvas (see pics again). At the top of the bunk trim is a small piece of paneling that I just pulled off (replaced later). I removed the floor section of the OHC and both rounds for the OHC. I was not able to fully remove the items in the OHC, but I was able to lift it up, and then I removed ALL the staples (I never secured this panel down). Then I took a couple of measurements to determine where to drill. It took a couple of tries as I was conservative in the angle and drilled into the front wall and not the lower panel of the OHC. Once all the holes were drilled I started pulling the wires all the way to the front. I pulled enough wire so it would reach to the far end of the OHC, in case I wanted to add future lights under the OHC (which I did this past fall). Once the wires were pulled I started working towards the rear of the TT securing the cables and buttoning things backup. Under sofa I zip-tied the wires to the water pipes and I zip-tied the heater ducts there too, to make more room for shoes.

I used a couple of wire connecters back at the converter to tie connect it all together, just like the factory does it, and then put it all back together, like new.

One tip on the power points; I had issues at first blowing fuses all the time. What I found was the wire connectors in it are very close to where the removable power plug slips past and we would short out the circuit and pop the fuse as we inserted or removed the plug. After using all my spare fuses I found the issue and bent the terminals back away and electrical taped them too (see bunk end lights mod pictures).

Best of luck!
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