After successfull installing and configuring the
One Control system, the next step in my quest to automate and simplify the camping experience has begun with the delivery of the Ground Control 3.0 aftermarket leveling system. If you are wondering why go through the expense and hassle of installing an aftermarket kit when it comes pre-installed on some models? When we were shopping for new units this year we simply could not find an Eagle HT with the options we wanted without ordering and waiting... A long time. So that feature got put aside as part of the purchasing decision as it could be installed anytime.
I ordered from eTrailer about 2 weeks ago. The hardware came today, several hundred pounds of it, strapped to a pallet. Lacking a pallet jack, and being a heavy beast, I had to open the box and transport in the individual boxed components to my garage a few at a time. I laid out the components on the driveway just to make sure everything was there and undamaged, then I got to work reading the instructions.
The very first step in the instructions is to swap out the landing gear with the landing gear provided with the kit. In order to remove the landing gear, one must somehow support the trailer so the old landing gear can be removed. In my case the TV is the only thing that I can safely use. The problem with with replacing the landing gear first is that once they have been replaced they can no longer be controlled by the landing gear up/down switch. The trailer would be stuck on the TV until the entire job is complete and the system configured. I just could not take that risk.
I carefully read the entire instruction booklet and determined that I'd re-arrange the order, starting with installing the rear jacks first, then the rear sensor, followed by the front control board, then all of the wiring, with the landing gear being changed out last. This seems like the most logical approach, especially since I can see this being a 6-8 hour job, or more depending on skillset and available tools.
Speaking of tools, there are a few required for this.
- 5/16" Cobalt drill bit (for drilling frame).
- Right-angle drill, preferably cordless due to clearance.
- Cordless impact driver with 9/16" socket (optional, for installing self-tapping bolts).
- Sockets and wrenches.
- Torque wrench.
- Center punch.
- Measuring tape.
- Oil or other drilling lubricant.
- Creeper.
- Safety glasses (a must as you'll be underneath drilling upward into the frame).
The instructions tell you to install the rear jacks approximately 12" behind the real wheel. Jayco did not make that easy for me. On my 30.5MLOK exactly 12" being the rear wheel on the passenger side was a propane manifold screwed to the frame, with absolutely no slack to be moved. There were also a couple siding support braces that are in that area too. I wound up locating the jacks 19 1/2" from the back tire, exactly 24" from the center to the jack from the outside edge of the tire. Despite that, I still had to temporarily relocate the propane manifold.
Drilling 5/16" holes in the frame is not a fast job. It takes patience and a lot of lubricant. I opted to purchase new cobalt drill bit specifically for this project. The first step in installing the rear jacks is to install the brackets. This requires placing the bracket and marking the holes; 4 on the face of the frame, and 2 on the bottom flange. Rather than marking the holes, I held the bracket into place and used a center punch to mark where to drill. I drilled the bottom (flange) holes first, re-seating the bracket after the first hole was drilled to check for proper alignment.
With both bottom holes drilled, I installed the supplied bracket with the self-tapping bolts, but did not tighten them to final torque. Using a cordless impact driver to get the threads started turned out to be a time (and shoulder) saver. The rear jacks occupy a very small space between the siding and the frame. I just couldn't get any of my my corded or cordless drill to fit in there, especially for drilling the top holes. It was nothing that a a credit card and a run to Lowes couldn't solve. I wound up buying a DeWalt cordless right-angle drill which did the job admirably.
The tight clearance for drilling, and the slow nature of drilling though the steel frame were the reasons that I decided to drill the 4 holes on the side of the frame with the bracket in place. This proved to be a good call as it eliminated the possibility of misaligned holes and the time that would be wasted checking hole alignment as each was drilled. I estimate that it took about 4 minutes to drill each hole, including stopping about every minute to add a drop of oil to the end of the drill bit. I installed the 4 bolts to the face of the frame using the impact driver, then tightened them to the 60ft/lbs (spec was not to exceed 75ft/lbs). One bolt started to strip out before hitting 70ft/lbs of torque, so I stopped trying to tighten it, and decided to stop at 60 ft/lbs on the others to prevent them from stripping.
Installing the jack onto the bracket was the easiest part of the job. It took just 6 bolts to secure. The instructions require a minimum of 7" of ground clearance. With the jack up as far as on the bracket as it could go, I only managed to achieve 7.5", which is a concern considering I was hoping to get 9" due to a steep driveway apron, but it is what it is.
I only managed to install the passenger side rear jack today. Total working time was 2 1/2 hours, exclusive of the Lowe's run, but including unboxing, inspecting, and installing the first jack. Based on todays experience, I estimate the second rear jack will take about an hour to install.
There's a lot more to come, including photos... I was too tired to take pictures tonight, so I'll catch up on that tomorrow.
Installing Lippert Ground Control 3.0
What a beast!
Pleasant surprise...
Linear Mode
