Inverter Power - 321 RSTS

[Barham56]

That is definitely the easier solution if it works. I have seen Inverter/Converter/Charger with a transfer switch, but they start at close to $1000. I just switched to Lithium battery at the end of last season and so purchased a new Converter/Charger. Which seems to be fine.


So to be clear, I have a 200AmpHour Lithium battery, Converter/Charger and an onboard 4000 Watt generator all wired in now and working. My goal is to only fire up the generator every couple of days, unless of course I am running the AC. If the Aims 2000 watt Inverter with transfer switch would just wire in and I could turn it on and off with the remote switch, that would be great (and affordable @ about $475 with the remote switch.) So the transfer switch will deal with plugging in shore power or running the generator with out taking the inverter out of the circuit? If so, yes, I want to hear more! Also, with the inverter on, is my 3-way fridge automatically going to switch to AC ?

[440 scout]

Originally Posted by Barham56

That is definitely the easier solution if it works. I have seen Inverter/Converter/Charger with a transfer switch, but they start at close to $1000. I just switched to Lithium battery at the end of last season and so purchased a new Converter/Charger. Which seems to be fine.


So to be clear, I have a 200AmpHour Lithium battery, Converter/Charger and an onboard 4000 Watt generator all wired in now and working. My goal is to only fire up the generator every couple of days, unless of course I am running the AC. If the Aims 2000 watt Inverter with transfer switch would just wire in and I could turn it on and off with the remote switch, that would be great (and affordable @ about $475 with the remote switch.) So the transfer switch will deal with plugging in shore power or running the generator with out taking the inverter out of the circuit? If so, yes, I want to hear more! Also, with the inverter on, is my 3-way fridge automatically going to switch to AC ?

Thats a nice inverter. As long as your camper is a 30 amp service and you wired that inverter to feed your entire circuit breaker panel. And yes your fridge will automatically switch between propane and electric as long as the fridge is set to automatic position, although I don't know what brand name fridge it is, it may have a 3 position switch to select electric, propane or automatic. If it doesn't have that capability, you'll have to select it yourself. Also if you've wired the inverter charger to power up the breaker panel, the charger part will sense if your connected to shore power or generator and it will charge the battery when either of those are connected. If you're running on battery power then the charger will not charge the battery. Yes, fully automatic is nice! So, you've got it wired in. Let me know which way you wired it, I'm just curious.

[TomC_AZ]

There are a few options that you can find that are inexpensive for 2000w pure sinewave inverters. I ended up getting a Xantrex 2000w Freedom X (it will do 2000w continuous and 4000w for short periods for motor surges etc.). I found it on Amazon "used like new" for $340, could not even remotely come close to that price, anywhere else was $200 more. They pop up every now and then so if you are not in a hurry keep an eye out. Same thing will happen for other brands/sizes as well.

The other thing I would suggest you look into before wiring anything up is to confirm how the generator is wired in. It may have a separate path into the PowerCenter or it may tap directly in where the shore line does, but make sure of that as you might need an additional transfer switch or rewire it. Just something to think about.

Also while your at the stage of potentially running shore lines to a inverter and back to the power center you might want to look into a hard wired power conditioner/surge suppressor inline before the inverter. If you have a Huges model even the non-hardwired versions can be easily converted and mounted (screw slots/holes to mount are already on the back).

[Spower]

I finally got mine set up yesterday!! Renogy 2000w inverter with remote. Wired right to batteries. Plugged my shore power cord (with adapter) into inverter.
I turned off the fireplace, AC, Converter, Microwave.
It works great! I love not having extension cords inside!!

Thanks to this forum for some great ideas!!

[TomC_AZ]

Very cool and congrats! How does the shore cable route into where the inverter is? i.e. any new holes or connectors used?

I also completed my install finally, and everything works and can run the AC for about two hours. (I only have 300ah of battery) It was nice to work on the inside of the trailer with AC and not need to be plugged in while it was 95deg outside.

[440 scout]

You got it done the right way. Good job!

[Spower]

Originally Posted by TomC_AZ

Very cool and congrats! How does the shore cable route into where the inverter is? i.e. any new holes or connectors used?

I also completed my install finally, and everything works and can run the AC for about two hours. (I only have 300ah of battery) It was nice to work on the inside of the trailer with AC and not need to be plugged in while it was 95deg outside.

I only have 200ah batts. so got a 2000w inverter. Not worried about running AC.

I am probably gonna catch flack for this so first let me state I am a full timer and I don't (usually) travel when the weather is bad.
I mounted my inverter underneath the trailer on unistruts. It is right up front tucked behind the trailer frame. I went with 2/0 cables to the batteries, 3'. It has a wired remote that I was able route underneath and up inside. So no new holes! I found u-bolt clamps for the unistruts that bolt to the frame so no holes there either!
If I find I have to drive in the rain, I will wrap the inverter in plastic to protect it, but don't see that happing much at all!!

I will get a picture if you all are interested.

[kirkelli]

Originally Posted by Spower

I only have 200ah batts. so got a 2000w inverter. Not worried about running AC.

I am probably gonna catch flack for this so first let me state I am a full timer and I don't (usually) travel when the weather is bad.

If you are a full timer, i dont see any problems they way you mounted the Inverter.. However, any road milage would defiantly concern me. Inverters are ventilated, which introduces moisture and road grime into the vent system. I would remove it or protect it when traveling on the road

[Spower]

Originally Posted by kirkelli

If you are a full timer, i dont see any problems they way you mounted the Inverter.. However, any road milage would defiantly concern me. Inverters are ventilated, which introduces moisture and road grime into the vent system. I would remove it or protect it when traveling on the road

Good advice! Its easy enough to cover it up. I will do that when I travel.
Thanks for all your help, you are the one that inspired me to do it!

[kirkelli]

Originally Posted by Spower

Good advice! Its easy enough to cover it up. I will do that when I travel.
Thanks for all your help, you are the one that inspired me to do it!

You got me thinking a little bit.. A few weeks ago i had part of the bottom membrane off under my RSTS to run a Starlink cable on the underside. Now thinking back, there is a lot of room up there to place a good size inverter and the space would be completely protected from the outside environment. If you placed your inverter up there above the membrane, you won't need worry about protection.. it would be completely safe there.. In fact you could cut like a trap door and use some good duct tape to make an access door. I recently installed one of the Victron MultiPlus-II Charge/Inverters in my basement and now thinking to relocate it in the space above the bottom membrane... I'll be looking into that more after our summer trips..

[Spower]

My trailer is sealed underneath, here is a picture for a better idea of how I did it....

[440 scout]

Originally Posted by Spower

My trailer is sealed underneath, here is a picture for a better idea of how I did it....

Good job with the fuse. That should ba ok as long as no water or water vapor gets in there. Let us know how it works out for you.

[Spower]

Is it ok to leave it on all the time? With nothing running at night it's pulling around 1.5 amps.

[440 scout]

Originally Posted by Spower

Is it ok to leave it on all the time? With nothing running at night it's pulling around 1.5 amps.

Yes, I think you'll be alright leaving it on all night with no other loads. Sorry, I don't remember what battery system you've got but if you're out boondocking and you got a good solar system or a generator to recharge the batteries, you'll be fine. Try it out and let us know.

[Spower]

Originally Posted by 440 scout

Yes, I think you'll be alright leaving it on all night with no other loads. Sorry, I don't remember what battery system you've got but if you're out boondocking and you got a good solar system or a generator to recharge the batteries, you'll be fine. Try it out and let us know.

I have 200ah of lithium batteries and 380w solar, left it on all night, batteries never moved off 13v.
Think I'm good!
Was more asking for the inverter side if its ok to just leave it on instead of turning it on and off.

[Ji.dittes]

Originally Posted by 440 scout

Yes, all that might work but it doesn't have to be so complicated. Actually there's a simple way to wire in your inverter. First make sure your inverter is pure sine wave. They cost a little more but they are good with sensitive electronics, and motors. FYI, almost all the inverters that Harbor freight sells are Modified sine wave and those are the type to stay away from. Amazon has lots of inverters and plenty of reviews about them to help you pick the right one. About 5 years ago I installed a 1200 watt, 12 volt Aims pure sine wave inverter with builtin automatic transfer switch and remote panel in 2015 Jayco 195 RB travel trailer and to this day I think its one the coolest mods I've ever done.
The wiring was simple, no extension cords, nothing to plug in or switches to worry about. Heres an example, after installation when you're on shore power and you're watching TV and shore power gets shut off, the inverter switches seamlessly to battery power so quick you won't notice anything on your TV. It also works if your inverter is powering your TV (for example) and you plug into shore power the automatic builtin transfer switch switches over to power provided from shore power or generator. Also if you get the remote wall mounted switch, you can shut off or turn on the inverter from a location thats convenient for you. The remote switch is a plug and play install and it comes with approximately 25 feet of cable. Anyway if you're interested in this installation, let me know and I will respond with how to wire it.

To 440 Scout. I'm fairly new to this site but I'm interested in how you wired your system. w/o any extention cords sou ds great to me. I'm in the process of installing a new 2000w Renogy Inverter with the plug n play remote switch, 200amp Renogy gel battery & 2-Renogy 100w panels on the roof of my 2019 Melbourne 24L Class C & I'd welcome your "simple solution"!!!

[440 scout]

Renogy probably recommends mounting the inverter close to the battery and using 2/0 size battery cables or possibly 1/0 size battery cables, correct? Anyway I recommend using welding cable because its very flexible and easy to work with. Also if your on a tight budget and don't have a crimper get one those crimpers you use a hammer on and buy the correct size terminals for the battery and inverter. You will also need approximately 40 feet of 12awg romex (20 amp) that has a hot, neutral and ground wire. Your inverter should have a 120 volt input and 120 volt output and the 12 volt connections but do those last. I'm assuming you're going to use the inverter to power up one circuit in your campers circuit breaker panel? Let me know just what you're trying to power and I will get back to you.

[Ji.dittes]

It's just my wife and I & no kids so we're both aware that we won't be able to use the AC & probably very minimal microwave (if at all) so I was hoping to be able to have all outlets powered if there's a simple way to do that. The refrigerator is AC or gas so we planned on switching that to gas when dry camping.

[440 scout]

Ok, I understand that you're wanting to power up your entire breaker panel but you don't expect to run the A/C, refrigerator or the water heater on electric while boondocking. So once its installed you'll have to make sure all those things are shut off or running on propane before you start the inverter when boondocking. You'll also need to make sure your converter circuit breaker is off, too.
As I told you recently you will need those battery cables and crimper with the correct size terminals if you plan on making your own battery cables which is usually better quality and probably costs less. Amazon has what you need. Before I go any further, I need to look up the model of that Renogy inverter. It may or may not except the #6awg wire cables that are necessary to feed your breaker panel. With this setup your 30 amp shore power cable will be removed from your breaker panel (3 wires) and instead it will go directly to the inverter on the 120 volt input terminals then another 6awg 3 conductor cable will connect to the output side of the inverter and feed your breaker panel. I just want to make sure you understand and that I'm giving you the correct info. Anyone else on this forum have anything to add?

[Ji.dittes]

I did some checking and my Inverter is a Renogy RNG-INVT-2000-12V-P2. It hasa 120v output terminal that looks like it's made to handle a 10-12g romax at most .(the manual doesn't tell any wire size) Also there is no 120v input terminal. After looking at yhe Renogy site I would need an "Inverter/Charger" unit in order to have a 120v input. Any suggestions on other options?