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Old 03-05-2018, 08:27 PM   #21
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Ha! Not a chance! John’s mods are more like art.

In regards to AC; used Reflectix, my last unit had a Coleman Mach and this made a noticeable difference however in such also used to wrap the blower and evap housing.
New unit has Dometic units and to my surprise when I popped the shrouds off they already encased the units in a dense styrofoam. (Impressed) Therefore I just lined the shroud to help with our Texas sun when in areas without shade.

What made a great difference AC wise, and plan on doing this month was sealing the AC ducting in ceiling, was shocked last time on the change in not only cfm more the temp from not cooling the area between ceiling and roof to just cooling the cabin.

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Old 03-05-2018, 08:42 PM   #22
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Sealing ducts as you mentioned made a huge difference when we were full timing in our last rig. 40’ 4-slide fifth wheel. 2 units similar to yours but not as good. 1st gen with issues. Had to seal ducts, blocked off the dual duct runs at the ends, make hood scoop like outfits in strategic ducts for better air flow to those areas, and made a sheet metal tent shaped deflector from blower fan directly to ducts. After all that mess, finally got it to maintain 70 in triple digit temps.

Sounds like you got it figured out. I posted temps inside and out on our 28 last year. It does quite well at 100 degrees.
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Old 03-06-2018, 12:26 PM   #23
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The yellow wire is the reverse feed off TV, so yes ran wire from back and tied in so comes on when I drop into reverse. Works great for late night arrivals.




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Thanks for the idea, going to do this once it warms up outside. I already have the LED lights (bought an 8 pack off Amazon to have for jobs like this).

Did you have to wire in a fuse for these lights? And did you just connect the black ground wire from each light to the trailer frame?
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Old 03-06-2018, 07:00 PM   #24
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SkyBound, correct used frame for ground, did not run inline fuse given the trucks already on a protected circuit. Thanks


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Old 03-08-2018, 02:28 PM   #25
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Is that black wire that's connected to the yellow wire the one that runs back to the lights? What was that yellow wire connected to originally?
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Old 03-08-2018, 07:33 PM   #26
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Yellow wire is a direct feed from your trailer plug, it’s capped off on trailer originally, or at least my past ones have been. Yes black runs to back. (Have a large roll so not particular on matching yellow)


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Old 03-14-2018, 11:57 AM   #27
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I had a look and yes indeed, there is a capped yellow wire in that box. Very pumped to get to this mod once things warm up. What gauge of wire did you use? I have been doing some reading about 12V current draw vs wire gauge vs length of run and from what I've seen it's recommending 10ga wire for a 25-30ft run drawing 3amps (2 lights at 18W each). Suggestions?
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Old 03-14-2018, 04:56 PM   #28
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10 ga wire will be more than heavy enough. You could get away with 14 ga.
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Old 05-05-2018, 04:23 PM   #29
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JC’s 28BHBE -

Not really a “mod”, however finally got around to installing 50amp at home. Will be great for loading days prior and cooling trailer down prior for Texas travel. Boys will use for some driveway camping as well.

Right at $200 in materials and we are set. (Need to move sprinkler head)

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Old 10-07-2018, 03:17 PM   #30
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Seems to be when we get in West Texas even in Central loose Cell Service at Parks. Added a Weboost today. Large investment however if it keeps wife and youngest happy worth every penny!
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:27 PM   #31
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Seems to be when we get in West Texas even in Central loose Cell Service at Parks. Added a Weboost today. Large investment however if it keeps wife and youngest happy worth every penny!

Works Great - had zero service prior to powering up, picked up Cell, Text and even able to watch Amazon for that nighttime movie.

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