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Old 02-14-2013, 11:19 AM   #1
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LP Quick disconnect port

Our 2011 X17Z did not come from the factory with an outside LP connection, which may not be a big deal to some, but we cook everything outside. We knew when bought this we would lose the outside stove that came with our popup, so I went to work to add one. Fairly easy project as their was an LP distribution manifold, with two unused ports, located just below the fridge and ahead of the axle.

I opted to get the bracket and shield through Jayco, this could made other ways, but they weren't very expensive and it looks more "factory".
This is the bracket and shield.

Click image for larger version

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I also ordered the flexible LP hose and Quick disconnect w/shut off valve from Jayco. The hose is 6' long with a 3/8" flare fitting on the end attached to the manifold, the other end is 1/4"MPT. The ports on the manifold are 3/8"FPT.

The trick to getting this to work is the connection at the end of the hose and the QD have to "clamp" together around the bracket. Jayco uses a type of spring washer that I could not find and for some reason Jayco could not send to me. So I had to find another way. It may be a little hard to see in this pic, but the washer leaning against the metal bracket is a spring washer, this is important, because when you tighten down the fittings this will fill in the gap so it doesn't move around in the bracket. Excuse the mess with the pipe thread compound, these went through a few test fits before I found washers that would work.

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This wavy spring washer went on the outside of the bracket the standard flat washer is on the inside. I would recommend using pipe thread compound vs tape, I've never had a gas connection leak with pipe thread compound, not always the case with tape. Plus as the compound dries, it is less likely to loosen up.

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The rest is fairly easy, I used 1" self tapping screws to attach the bracket, the floor is more solid than you might think. I also used some insulated pipe hangers to help protect the rubber hose, their is one attaching it to the underside of the floor and the other can be seen on the frame.

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After checking for leaks we are good to go and we have an outside stove All I have left to do is install the shield and another project is done.

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Old 02-14-2013, 12:03 PM   #2
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Nicely done! On the 17Z weight is all so important to watch, and this eliminates the need to carry a second tank.
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amabee View Post
Our 2011 X17Z did not come from the factory with an outside LP connection, which may not be a big deal to some, but we cook everything outside. We knew when bought this we would lose the outside stove that came with our popup, so I went to work to add one. Fairly easy project as their was an LP distribution manifold, with two unused ports, located just below the fridge and ahead of the axle.

I opted to get the bracket and shield through Jayco, this could made other ways, but they weren't very expensive and it looks more "factory".
This is the bracket and shield.

Attachment 6431

I also ordered the flexible LP hose and Quick disconnect w/shut off valve from Jayco. The hose is 6' long with a 3/8" flare fitting on the end attached to the manifold, the other end is 1/4"MPT. The ports on the manifold are 3/8"FPT.

The trick to getting this to work is the connection at the end of the hose and the QD have to "clamp" together around the bracket. Jayco uses a type of spring washer that I could not find and for some reason Jayco could not send to me. So I had to find another way. It may be a little hard to see in this pic, but the washer leaning against the metal bracket is a spring washer, this is important, because when you tighten down the fittings this will fill in the gap so it doesn't move around in the bracket. Excuse the mess with the pipe thread compound, these went through a few test fits before I found washers that would work.

Attachment 6433

This wavy spring washer went on the outside of the bracket the standard flat washer is on the inside. I would recommend using pipe thread compound vs tape, I've never had a gas connection leak with pipe thread compound, not always the case with tape. Plus as the compound dries, it is less likely to loosen up.

Attachment 6434

The rest is fairly easy, I used 1" self tapping screws to attach the bracket, the floor is more solid than you might think. I also used some insulated pipe hangers to help protect the rubber hose, their is one attaching it to the underside of the floor and the other can be seen on the frame.

Attachment 6435Attachment 6436

After checking for leaks we are good to go and we have an outside stove All I have left to do is install the shield and another project is done.

Attachment 6437
I know you said that you ordered the fittings from Jayco, but I'm interested in what brand they were, both male and female, and if you used parts from different manufacturers, did you run into any compatibility issues in getting them to allow gas flow. I'm putting together an article for another forum on this topic and would appreciate any info, actually from anyone who has done this and what did and did not work.
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
I know you said that you ordered the fittings from Jayco, but I'm interested in what brand they were, both male and female, and if you used parts from different manufacturers, did you run into any compatibility issues in getting them to allow gas flow. I'm putting together an article for another forum on this topic and would appreciate any info, actually from anyone who has done this and what did and did not work.
The part from Jayco, the female QD w/valve, has the name "Fairview" on it, I found Fairviews site and it appears to be part #QD-GMRVC4-4F.

The hose that connects to the stove, with the male QD, came from CampChef and has the name "Laite" on it.

They do work together with no leaks or other issues. From what little I know, they are both "Type 250" QD fittings. That is fairly common, but their are as I am sure you know, several other types.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:30 AM   #5
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Nice job amabee, you have been busy lately! Your parts selection and workmanship are commendable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven View Post
Nicely done! On the 17Z weight is all so important to watch, and this eliminates the need to carry a second tank.
Jagiven's comment about the weight is 100% accurate. A 17Z owner has to watch that carefully. I posted about the hitch weight in a different thread: It's 415 lbs leaving the builder, so after adding a 50 lb battery at the dealer it's at 13% before you add any personal gear.

I looked into adding a LP port last year and didn't do it because the appliances I use require BTU ratings that weren't available to me with that mod. I think mcfarmall modified his appliances and that's another way of getting it done.

I opted for the second tank (2 - 20 lb tanks), and remove one when we set-up our site. We usually set up a screen tent and we like to have a propane tank in it.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:11 AM   #6
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We also have 2-20lb tanks and I had thought about just using one for the camper and one for a stove, but that means were running off both tanks and at some point we would be down to one.

Not sure how many BTU's you were needing, this stove puts out 30,000 BTU's per burner. That's quite a bit, I of course have no way to actually measure that, but it completely blows away the little stove that came with our popup, which was rated at 6500 BTU's per burner.

I am thinking about going to the CAT scale again for another weigh, I need to see where we are at with weight, that stove adds 35lbs by itself.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:40 AM   #7
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Is this connection a high pressure or low pressure connection. I use a camp stove and it needs high pressure, that's why I'm asking. I thought my only solution was one of those T adapters you put on the bottle, and it has a high pressure connection to put the stove connection to, and the other end of the T goes to the regulator and on to the rest of the appliances in the RV.

Very nice work by the way, it looks good.
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckworkb View Post
Is this connection a high pressure or low pressure connection. I use a camp stove and it needs high pressure, that's why I'm asking. I thought my only solution was one of those T adapters you put on the bottle, and it has a high pressure connection to put the stove connection to, and the other end of the T goes to the regulator and on to the rest of the appliances in the RV.

Very nice work by the way, it looks good.
It is a low pressure stove. Unfortunately a lot of the smaller camp stoves that use 1lb bottles have those funky connections at the stove that makes it all but impossible to do this. I had thought about using a T also, this is just more convenient. We have an old Coleman stove, but it has seen better days, so with needing a new stove, this seemed liked the way to go.
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:16 AM   #9
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I think everything about this mod except for the rubber line hanging down below the frame. If you are traveling and running the fridge (I know that is a whole other debate) and something jumps up and grabs this line......jayco plumbed ours in with either heavy copper or black pipe. I've had our quick connect off when I was doing my grill project, but can't remember what line is there, but I know it isn't rubber.
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:32 AM   #10
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Here is a pic of a new 2013 X17Z. I basically did this just like Jayco does from the factory. I think the shield would stop most things from hitting it.

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The Jay Feathers entire LP system is plumbed with rubber lines, the main line from the tanks back to the distribution manifold runs along the bottom edge of the frame.
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