Morryde Wet Bolt Kit

[gman03842]

My 2016 Jayco North Point 341RLTS is in getting some warranty work done at a dealer 120 miles away. When I get it back I want to install a Morryde Heavy Duty Shackle wet bolt Upgrade Kit. Trying to figure out which kit I need with the trailer 120 miles away is a little difficult.

Anybody have any idea which kit it takes? I believe it is the MORryde UO12-016 Heavy Duty Shackle Upgrade Kit, CRE3000 / Stock / Equaflex 2.25" Shackles - Tandem Axle kit.

Just wanting to make sure before I order it.

Thanks for your help on this.

Greg

[norty1]

The vin # might help MorRyde determine which kit you need. I would be sure before ordering it.

[gman03842]

Thanks Norty1, was hoping maybe someone with the same year, or same model would have ordered it already and had the part number handy.

[Hoppy220]

That is the kit I just installed on my '16 383flfs. Not overly impressed, kit came with no instructions (although removing a bolt and replacing a bolt is pretty well straight forward) i had to search internet and forums to find torque specs (45 ft lbs on equalizer and 50 on springs) the torque seems low to me, but that's what I was able to find, and I also stumbled upon the recommendation that the grease holes be positioned in the 3 or 9 o'clock position. Even making sure the hole was in the horizontal and with the axle still suspended they didnt want to take grease I cant imagine they will at all when the wheel is on and load setting on them. After just over 2 years the factory plastic bushings were shot so it was a definite upgrade going to brass, and I was able to get some grease in them so that should help prolong the life of the brass, but I'm not convinced this was an end all to having to replace bushings in the future. The shackles are a huge improvement, they are 2x as thick as the factory. Although I'm not extremely impressed, I do feel it is a worth while upgrade.

[norty1]

Strange that they don’t give that info because not placing the holes and greasing it without lifting and spinning the wheels negates the value. I have a Dexter book that has loads of torque specs.

[Hoppy220]

Originally Posted by norty1

and greasing it without lifting and spinning the wheels negates the value. I have a Dexter book that has loads of torque specs.

Ok, now I'm really curious, why spin the wheels? I understand "unloading" the springs to grease the bushings, but what is the purpose of spinning the wheel?

[bdreinv]

Lippert sent me a free never fail suspension upgrade kit for our 2015 Eagle RSTS.Never installed them LOL!

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Hoppy220

Ok, now I'm really curious, why spin the wheels? I understand "unloading" the springs to grease the bushings, but what is the purpose of spinning the wheel?

Here is why: Dexter Operations Maintenance service manual, pg 56

There are 2 holes in the axle that allow the grease applied at the zerk fitting to come out at one place on the inside and outside bearing. Rotating the wheel or hub allows the grease to be evenly distributed. If you just pump grease in the zerk, it will blow by the seal, allowing grease to contaminate the brake assembly.

[Hoppy220]

Originally Posted by norty1

Here is why: Dexter Axle Maintenance book, pg 56

Oh, you're talking wheel bearings. Now I see. I was talking about the wet bolt kit for spring hanger bushings. We were on two separate subjects. Now I know why I was confused.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Hoppy220

Oh, you're talking wheel bearings. Now I see. I was talking about the wet bolt kit for spring hanger bushings. We were on two separate subjects. Now I know why I was confused.

My bad, I was not paying attention to the subject. I just had to do this on my last trip. I usually just have them repacked every other year.

Last year I had the never lube spring shackle inserts added on my rig. I'm going to check them and see how they hold up after a few years.

[Hoppy220]

We've all been know to lose track of what subject we are on from time to time... no worries. I just repacked my bearings at the end of last season, so I hope to be good till next year on that.

[Grafton Guns]

Greg,
I purchased mine on Amazon. They had the best price. Just type in wetbolt kit for your CRE3000. It will come right up. Mine was $84, BTW when you install them, check that the zerk fittings will take grease before you install them. I had to drill out the 1/8" grease hole as it wasn't drilled through completely. And, mark the bolt head with the grease hole orientation so you know the grease will come out into the bronze bushing at the 6 oclock position.

[Siamese]

My 2017, 26BH has accumulated some miles and is due to have the bushings replaced. I've been planning to do the wet bolt system, but as soon as I started doing my final research on it, I learned more about the Never Fail bushings from Lippert.

Some folks complain about it being difficult to get the grease into the wet bolts, although that could be user error.

Still, with the Never Fail bushings, no greasing needed. So, I think that's the way I'll go this spring.

My only concern about the Never Fail bushing, is the fact that they call them Never Fail. I mean, really? Isn't that just tempting fate? But the reports sound good. I'm doin' it.

[RedHorse1]

Someone on the JOF installed them and they were toast by the next season.

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

Someone on the JOF installed them and they were toast by the next season.

My Never Fail bushings seem fine after 2 years. There's been no reason to remove them so far. If that changes, I'll let everyone know what I find.

[gman03842]

Originally Posted by Grafton Guns

Greg,
I purchased mine on Amazon. They had the best price. Just type in wetbolt kit for your CRE3000. It will come right up. Mine was $84, BTW when you install them, check that the zerk fittings will take grease before you install them. I had to drill out the 1/8" grease hole as it wasn't drilled through completely. And, mark the bolt head with the grease hole orientation so you know the grease will come out into the bronze bushing at the 6 o'clock position.

Thanks for the heads up about making sure the wet bolts take grease and if not drilling out the 1/8 inch holes. I also like the idea of marking them to make sure they are in the right orientation which I was told before to be in either the 3 or 9 o'clock position.

Thanks,

Greg

[gman03842]

Originally Posted by Grafton Guns

Greg,
I purchased mine on Amazon. They had the best price. Just type in wetbolt kit for your CRE3000. It will come right up. Mine was $84, BTW when you install them, check that the zerk fittings will take grease before you install them. I had to drill out the 1/8" grease hole as it wasn't drilled through completely. And, mark the bolt head with the grease hole orientation so you know the grease will come out into the bronze bushing at the 6 oclock position.

Originally Posted by Hoppy220

That is the kit I just installed on my '16 383flfs. Not overly impressed, kit came with no instructions (although removing a bolt and replacing a bolt is pretty well straight forward) i had to search internet and forums to find torque specs (45 ft lbs on equalizer and 50 on springs) the torque seems low to me, but that's what I was able to find, and I also stumbled upon the recommendation that the grease holes be positioned in the 3 or 9 o'clock position. Even making sure the hole was in the horizontal and with the axle still suspended they didnt want to take grease I cant imagine they will at all when the wheel is on and load setting on them. After just over 2 years the factory plastic bushings were shot so it was a definite upgrade going to brass, and I was able to get some grease in them so that should help prolong the life of the brass, but I'm not convinced this was an end all to having to replace bushings in the future. The shackles are a huge improvement, they are 2x as thick as the factory. Although I'm not extremely impressed, I do feel it is a worth while upgrade.

Thanks for the confirmation on the kit. I did call MORryde on Friday and they confirmed that is the correct kit to use. Thanks for letting me know the torque specs for the springs and equalizer. You would think that there would be a installation sheet with all this information on it.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Grafton Guns

Greg,
..........snip.snip........And, mark the bolt head with the grease hole orientation so you know the grease will come out into the bronze bushing at the 6 oclock position.

I will take issue with this statement, the grease holes in the spring shackle bolt should always be in the 3 or 9 o'clock position to allow maximun possibility of the grease to access the brass bushing. Any other position will make them hard to take grease even when raised off the ground.

[Lake Huron]

I installed a wet bolt kit just yesterday. I was at our local RV show a few months back and was going to pick up a tandem axle kit there. The "show price" was $110. I decided against it, came home and that nite I got a triple axle kit off Ebay from a somewhat local RV shop shipped to me for $90. The shakle straps were the correct length for my Northpoint but were too short for my single axle utility trailer. I called Moryde and got 4 correct length shakle straps for $25. Financially, I'm still further ahead than the great "show price".

Even in my triple axle kit there was no instructions. I did some poking around here on the forum and found a suggestion about indexing the holes of the pins idea. I did my utility trailer first and everything went pretty well. I knew the cheap plastic bushings were going to be all worn out so this was a great upgrade for it. The shakle straps are WAY thicker than the factory junk ones that were on it. I didn't like the idea of the nuts having a washer flange on them that was smooth. It should have had some teeth cut into it to help lock down so it doesn't loosen up. I tightened them all up about as tight as I could get them with a ratchet and put on some yellow Markal security paint. This way I have a quick visual inspection to see if something is coming loose if the paint is cracked or missing. An after thought was I should have put some blue Loctite in them.
On a side note, that trailer is 26 years old and has a lot of miles on it. All it had was a bolt/pin and a nut. No lock nut, no flat washer and lock washer, no Loctite, nothing, and none of them were loose. Its never been in the snow and salt and yet I had to get out the Metabo and cut one off. Moryde must figure this will hold just fine or they wouldn't have it AND every trailer i've look at out there is done this way. So it must not be an issue.

I did my Northpoint yesterday. 2 years old and surprisingly the cheap plastic bushings were still there and held up... ok I guess but it barely has 2000 miles on it. They were surely in need of replacement though. The bolt/pins on it were held on with the same smooth flanged nuts and none of them were loose either. It still took a little rap of an impact to get them off. I tightened them up by hand with a ratchet. I couldn't find any torque specs on them either.
As far as the installation of the wet bolt kit, It went pretty smooth. I indexed the grease holes on the ends of the spring eyes. The center eyes are where the shakles go and those were already indexed from Moryde. I did notice the brass bushings were already in the CRE3000 AND they are a smaller OD than the ones that come on the pins in the kit. The ID on them was the same so the thickness must be less. I didn't have any weight on the axles and pumped grease in pretty easily with everything tight, so that was a good thing.
Unfortunately this project has led me into a couple other issues that I'll have to address sooner than later. I had to get this done and the wheels back on it for right now. In the process of taking the lugnuts off I had a few that didn't want to come off very easily and one that went on pretty hard. It is not cross threaded but I know the threads on the lugnut are not what they are supposed to be and the threads on the stud looked kinda funny too. There was some corrosion on a almost all of the studs. I've never seen zinc plated studs before and I'm thinking that may be the issue. Reaction between the zinc plating and the lugnut?? I may end up changing out all the studs AND lugnuts. Another issue was I went to grease the bearings and found one of the zerk fittings on the spindle end missing. I pulled the cap and had to dig thru all the grease to find it. It threaded right back in just fine. I was spinning the hub and hand pumping grease in them and all four took quite a bit of grease considering I pulled them all apart last year, cleaned the factory stuff off and re packed them myself. With the amount of grease I pumped in there I'm wondering where it all went. Only way to find out it is pull the drum off and see if the inside seal is blown and it all over in the brakes.

[Rjhuser]

Here are the installation instructions for the wet bolt kit.

1443646944-Wet Bolt Kit Instructions for LRE.pdf

Rick