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Old 05-24-2016, 09:01 PM   #1
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My Homage to Mods

When my Eagle HT 26.5 RLS was still on order I joined this forum to get ideas for upgrades. I have NOT been disappointed. The advise, creativity and skill of the members has amazed me.

SO - several of the following mods that I completed last week are thanks to those that have gone before - just my versions.
A few others are new ideas (I think).
But I wanted to post them because I haven't see a lot done on the 26.5 RLS.

Re-keyed all Locks
I ordered keyed alike locks from RV Locks and More. I changed out the slam locks, the turn locks, even the small locks on the Level-up and water access doors.
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Changing those small locks on the plastic doors just took a bit of brute force - they are pressed into the plastic door - you basically depress a tab on each side and push them out - then replace with short locks that are bolted on.
The only downside is I didn't order an unkeyed latch for the right most slam latch in this photo. The RV Locks and More slam latches are more square than the original Jayco equipment so there is a mild missmatch - I'm gonna live with it.
Changeout was extremely easy and overall took just 20 minutes. Just measure the length of the smaller locks and match them (they vary depending on thickness of your door panels.

So now, there is only ONE key for the entire trailer. And I have a TON of keys since they sent 2 keys for each lock I ordered

Organizing Storage

I really like the idea of using clips to get the spare tire crank, folding lug wrench and jack handle out of the way. I mounted them on the back wall of the frontmost compartment. This compartment has a sheet metal back wall with plywood behind that. I just screwed right into the sheetmetal.
I also have an ax, shovel and Sven Saw (folding aluminum wood saw) that I carry. I have a roll of 1 inch wide velcro strap - hooks on one side, loops on the other. I cut three pieces and screwed them to the side wall. The tools sit on the floor so there is no weight on the velcro, it just wraps around the handles to hold them up against the wall.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:12 PM   #2
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Thanks for sharing! Love the velcro idea, might have to try that.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:12 PM   #3
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I have a TempMinder wireless indoor outdoor temperature unit I wanted to mount.
I'm a big fan of magnetic cell phone holders and so I bought two mounts that sit flush to the dash (or in this case the wall).
I mounted the outdoor temp transmitter in the center under the bedroom overhang.
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The above is the small back magnet that sticks to the outside of the trailer with "automotive quality double sided tape" that comes with it.
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There is a small metal plate that attaches to the back of the sending unit with the same adhesive.
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The sending unit then just grabs onto the magnet. I drove over 300 miles in rough roads last weekend and it never slips. A unit on my dash holds tight to a much heavier cell phone so I have no worries - it's a strong magnet.
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Inside I used another identical magnetic mount to attach the receiver next to the thermostat.
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I wanted to put it above and centered on the thermostat - but it sticks out just enough more than the thermostat that the bathroom door was hitting it when fully open - so I settled for next to the thermostat.
You'll also note the digital thermostat described in a separate post.
This unit also rides quite nicely here.

Both sender and receiver use AAA batteries so I'll take them out when I winterize. I'll also probably take the sending unit in between trips - the magnet mount makes that very easy to do.

Its very convenient having external temp displayed right next to the thermostat.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:18 PM   #4
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Really like your mods! I just wish my under storage compartment looked as organized as yours does. Unfortunately, the storage space in my hybrid is very limited.

BTW, how did you make out with your slide problem?
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:19 PM   #5
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The next two were pretty simple but I thought I'd show them to you.

Towel Rack
You never have enough room to store towels. The left wall of the bath is 23 inches across. I took a 24 inch towel rod from Home Depot (one of the cheaper ones) and, after measuring twice, cut about an inch off the rod part with a dremel tool using (appropriately enough) a cuttoff disk. It mounted rather nicely here. We put it up high enough that a towel doesn't hit you when you're sitting.
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Broom Mount
The space directly across from the bathroom in the "hall" to the bedroom is just wide enough for a small broom. It only took one 3M broom mount.
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Max Tow Pkg, 36gal tank
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:19 PM   #6
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Great stuff BuddyRay, will be borrowing a few of these 😃
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:31 PM   #7
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glsimms - I just updated that post on my slides:
Slide Repair Post
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Max Tow Pkg, 36gal tank
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:38 PM   #8
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More to come

Thanks everyone - you all inspired me

I've still got to install a hardwired surge unit. Hoping I get that for my Birthday next month.
At least I've figured out how / where I'm going to put the unit and how I'm going to route the display wiring.
I'll post photos when I get around to that.

I also still haven't installed the 12v monitor discussed HERE.

I'll probably do that at the same time I install the Surge unit as I'll put the displays next to each other.
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Max Tow Pkg, 36gal tank
Reese Sidewinder and Reese Titan 16k hitch
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:00 AM   #9
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Nice mods and as others have noted, I like the velcro idea too.

Thanks,
Dave...
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:29 AM   #10
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Tight doors

I noticed that both our Bathroom and Bedroom doors were hard to close. The tolerances were very close so the round part of the lock was hitting the strike plate. You could push it and it would spread the door frame enough to close but it wasn't optimal.
In normal door construction, either the strike plate would be recessed or the part of the lock on the edge of the door would be recessed - neither was the case here. Jayco just sits the strike plate on top the plastic door trim.

So:
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Here you can see how the strike plate is sitting on tip of the plastic frame.

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First I scored around it with a box cutter.

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Then I completely cut away the plastic. You have to cut just a bit away from the edge facing the hall so the plate sits flat. There is also a part of the strike plate that fits into the hole and you may have to trim some wood out of the hole so that sits farther in.

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Here's the plate reattached and sitting flush.

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You can see from this shot that there is now just enough clearance for the doors to close easily - yet its still a very firm latch - no danger of it popping open in transit.
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Max Tow Pkg, 36gal tank
Reese Sidewinder and Reese Titan 16k hitch
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