My Homage to Mods

[BuddyRay]

When my Eagle HT 26.5 RLS was still on order I joined this forum to get ideas for upgrades. I have NOT been disappointed. The advise, creativity and skill of the members has amazed me.

SO - several of the following mods that I completed last week are thanks to those that have gone before - just my versions.
A few others are new ideas (I think).
But I wanted to post them because I haven't see a lot done on the 26.5 RLS.

Re-keyed all Locks
I ordered keyed alike locks from RV Locks and More. I changed out the slam locks, the turn locks, even the small locks on the Level-up and water access doors.

Changing those small locks on the plastic doors just took a bit of brute force - they are pressed into the plastic door - you basically depress a tab on each side and push them out - then replace with short locks that are bolted on.
The only downside is I didn't order an unkeyed latch for the right most slam latch in this photo. The RV Locks and More slam latches are more square than the original Jayco equipment so there is a mild missmatch - I'm gonna live with it.
Changeout was extremely easy and overall took just 20 minutes. Just measure the length of the smaller locks and match them (they vary depending on thickness of your door panels.

So now, there is only ONE key for the entire trailer. And I have a TON of keys since they sent 2 keys for each lock I ordered

Organizing Storage

I really like the idea of using clips to get the spare tire crank, folding lug wrench and jack handle out of the way. I mounted them on the back wall of the frontmost compartment. This compartment has a sheet metal back wall with plywood behind that. I just screwed right into the sheetmetal.
I also have an ax, shovel and Sven Saw (folding aluminum wood saw) that I carry. I have a roll of 1 inch wide velcro strap - hooks on one side, loops on the other. I cut three pieces and screwed them to the side wall. The tools sit on the floor so there is no weight on the velcro, it just wraps around the handles to hold them up against the wall.

[Broken Wing]

Thanks for sharing! Love the velcro idea, might have to try that.

[BuddyRay]

I have a TempMinder wireless indoor outdoor temperature unit I wanted to mount.
I'm a big fan of magnetic cell phone holders and so I bought two mounts that sit flush to the dash (or in this case the wall).
I mounted the outdoor temp transmitter in the center under the bedroom overhang.

The above is the small back magnet that sticks to the outside of the trailer with "automotive quality double sided tape" that comes with it.

There is a small metal plate that attaches to the back of the sending unit with the same adhesive.

The sending unit then just grabs onto the magnet. I drove over 300 miles in rough roads last weekend and it never slips. A unit on my dash holds tight to a much heavier cell phone so I have no worries - it's a strong magnet.

Inside I used another identical magnetic mount to attach the receiver next to the thermostat.

I wanted to put it above and centered on the thermostat - but it sticks out just enough more than the thermostat that the bathroom door was hitting it when fully open - so I settled for next to the thermostat.
You'll also note the digital thermostat described in a separate post.
This unit also rides quite nicely here.

Both sender and receiver use AAA batteries so I'll take them out when I winterize. I'll also probably take the sending unit in between trips - the magnet mount makes that very easy to do.

Its very convenient having external temp displayed right next to the thermostat.

[glsimms]

Really like your mods! I just wish my under storage compartment looked as organized as yours does. Unfortunately, the storage space in my hybrid is very limited.

BTW, how did you make out with your slide problem?

[BuddyRay]

The next two were pretty simple but I thought I'd show them to you.

Towel Rack
You never have enough room to store towels. The left wall of the bath is 23 inches across. I took a 24 inch towel rod from Home Depot (one of the cheaper ones) and, after measuring twice, cut about an inch off the rod part with a dremel tool using (appropriately enough) a cuttoff disk. It mounted rather nicely here. We put it up high enough that a towel doesn't hit you when you're sitting.


Broom Mount
The space directly across from the bathroom in the "hall" to the bedroom is just wide enough for a small broom. It only took one 3M broom mount.

[Force]

Great stuff BuddyRay, will be borrowing a few of these 😃

[BuddyRay]

glsimms - I just updated that post on my slides:
Slide Repair Post

[BuddyRay]

Thanks everyone - you all inspired me

I've still got to install a hardwired surge unit. Hoping I get that for my Birthday next month.
At least I've figured out how / where I'm going to put the unit and how I'm going to route the display wiring.
I'll post photos when I get around to that.

I also still haven't installed the 12v monitor discussed HERE.

I'll probably do that at the same time I install the Surge unit as I'll put the displays next to each other.

[Aero_Dave]

Nice mods and as others have noted, I like the velcro idea too.

Thanks,
Dave...

[BuddyRay]

I noticed that both our Bathroom and Bedroom doors were hard to close. The tolerances were very close so the round part of the lock was hitting the strike plate. You could push it and it would spread the door frame enough to close but it wasn't optimal.
In normal door construction, either the strike plate would be recessed or the part of the lock on the edge of the door would be recessed - neither was the case here. Jayco just sits the strike plate on top the plastic door trim.

So:

Here you can see how the strike plate is sitting on tip of the plastic frame.


First I scored around it with a box cutter.


Then I completely cut away the plastic. You have to cut just a bit away from the edge facing the hall so the plate sits flat. There is also a part of the strike plate that fits into the hole and you may have to trim some wood out of the hole so that sits farther in.


Here's the plate reattached and sitting flush.


You can see from this shot that there is now just enough clearance for the doors to close easily - yet its still a very firm latch - no danger of it popping open in transit.

[Rustysocket]

Really like the organization for the handles. Where did you source the clips?

[Aero_Dave]

Originally Posted by BuddyRay

Re-keyed all Locks
I ordered keyed alike locks from RV Locks and More. I changed out the slam locks, the turn locks, even the small locks on the Level-up and water access doors.
The only downside is I didn't order an unkeyed latch for the right most slam latch in this photo. The RV Locks and More slam latches are more square than the original Jayco equipment so there is a mild missmatch - I'm gonna live with it.

FYI, I did the same as you with my locks. Once I saw the Slam Latches were different shaped, not only did I order a matching lock, I also noticed that the unlocked side can be opened a lot if pulled hard enough. So I ordered matching Locked handles for both. Since they are keyed-alike, it really only take another 4-5 seconds to unlock the 2nd one.
Love having only 1 key!

Dave...

[marbles]

The clips were available at walmart with their organizer hooks and stuff. About $2 for 2. I cleaned out our store I liked them so much.

[spepi]

Looks great. I have an outside receiver for my thermostat. Was wondering how to mount when at camp, and velcro is the answer for this one. Also, I like the clips for the tools hanging with velcro. My unit is so empty right now. Our old TT didnt have the outside storage we have now. I think I need to re-key my locks. I hate when I get the wrong purple key and I have to switch.

Aero_Dave - Do you have a copy of your invoice so I can copy what you bought? Send along your CC # too...I bet that will come in handy...LOL

[Aero_Dave]

Originally Posted by spepi

Aero_Dave - Do you have a copy of your invoice so I can copy what you bought? Send along your CC # too...I bet that will come in handy...LOL

Scott, sorry I don't. Just remove each keyed cylinder and measure the arm length (as noted on their web site) http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/camlockmeasure.gif so you don't get anything wrong.
Also note on the slam latch locks, the 4 arms are just a tab longer than our stock ones. http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/BLL-40101-2006_side_m.png
But since they are made of pot steel, I just used a file on them to shorten them just a bit. It only took about 30 seconds per arm to get them short enough. Otherwise when you screw them in, they won't be tight enough to create a good seal against the doors.
I didn't do the convenience center door yet, because RV Locks doesn't have any cam lock arms for sale yet. The stock lock (as Buddy noted) is a cheap press-fit unit and the arm is not removable. I have been unable to find anyone who sells them either. But I did order the 7/8" replacement lock already so I'll be ready when I can find a replacement arm.
Sorry, DW said no sharing the CC info.

Dave...

[spepi]

Originally Posted by Aero_Dave

Scott, sorry I don't. Just remove each keyed cylinder and measure the arm length (as noted on their web site) http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/camlockmeasure.gif so you don't get anything wrong.
Also note on the slam latch locks, the 4 arms are just a tab longer than our stock ones. http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/BLL-40101-2006_side_m.png
But since they are made of pot steel, I just used a file on them to shorten them just a bit. It only took about 30 seconds per arm to get them short enough. Otherwise when you screw them in, they won't be tight enough to create a good seal against the doors.
I didn't do the convenience center door yet, because RV Locks doesn't have any cam lock arms for sale yet. The stock lock (as Buddy noted) is a cheap press-fit unit and the arm is not removable. I have been unable to find anyone who sells them either. But I did order the 7/8" replacement lock already so I'll be ready when I can find a replacement arm.
Sorry, DW said no sharing the CC info.

Dave...

Thanks Dave. I just went through the 70 or so PM's we did, and I found your list. Its about 150.00 or so for them all. I dont blam the DW...for saying no....HAHA

[Aero_Dave]

Originally Posted by spepi

Thanks Dave. I just went through the 70 or so PM's we did, and I found your list. Its about 150.00 or so for them all. I dont blam the DW...for saying no....HAHA

Scott, not if you get the 900 series locks like I did. They cost More
Plus I now have keyed-locks on Both Slam Latch Doors handles.

More in the $235 range for everything!

Dave...

[BuddyRay]

Rusty - those clips came from Home Depot. They only had one size and color (white) but they worked. I found a bunch of others on Amazon.com but wasn't sure of the size, strength, etc. so I just picked up what I could see/touch.

Dave - I kinda did the opposite on the slam locks. On one side I had dual locks, on the other I had one lock and one latch. I changed out the side with dual locks to one and one. I know you can pull it open a bit but not much stored there that can fit through that space - and if you really pull hard I'm quite sure you can pull the door completely off.
As they say - locks are to keep honest people honest.
But you're right, only having one key is excellent!

[BuddyRay]

Spepi,
Re the arm that isn't removable on the "press fit" locks.
Anything is removable with enough force :-).
The "arm" is standard, it's just riveted on with cheap metal instead of screwed on. I took the whole lock to my bench grinder and filed the rivet head it down till I could knock the arm off the old lock. It fit perfectly on the new lock.
I suspect if you don't have a bench grinder that you could file it off. It would just take longer.

[BuddyRay]

OK, last mod for a while.
I guess this qualifies as a "mod" - it's pretty simple.

I'm a clutz. I've hit my head on the corner of the closet slide twice in the Month I've owned this rig. It's just the right height to catch me when I come out of two of my storage bays.
I've seen the commercial solutions. And I've seen the "noodle" solutions. I was going to buy a noodle but all the ones I've seen lately are garrish colors.

Then I spied these in Home Depot today. They are insulation corners for copper pipes. I got the ones for 2 inch pipe (I think) - your size may vary. They fit perfectly on the corners of this small slide. And since the trim on the FW is black and so are they - they look great. No they won't stop me from hitting my head on the slide - but they will stop me from gouging my scalp on the corners - which is what I've been doing.