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Old 02-25-2016, 10:58 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mustang65 View Post
One additional suggestion. I would recommend installing the 2 terminals on the fridge vent in a 4x4 water proof electrical box as the connections may become rusted or oxidized over time. If not purchase the red battery terminal coating spray coating from a auto parts store and coat all the bare metal parts.

Just a suggestion.

Don

I am planning on sealing the feed through terminals with a combination of the CableCap, heat shrink and Eternabond tape. I will also use the coating. Thanks for the tip!


This is what the Blue Sea CableCap looks like...





That said, I do have a 4 x 4 x 2 electrical box and some cable glands on stand by.
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:00 PM   #22
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This is a great idea!
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:44 PM   #23
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I don't have any knowledge to add but I just wanted to say thanks for the great pictures and descriptions of what you're doing. I'm following this closely since I also have an X23B. I'll be curious to see where you run your wires and where you mount the components. You may end up being my guide and inspiration to complete my own solar project.
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Old 02-26-2016, 12:25 AM   #24
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I don't have any knowledge to add but I just wanted to say thanks for the great pictures and descriptions of what you're doing. I'm following this closely since I also have an X23B. I'll be curious to see where you run your wires and where you mount the components. You may end up being my guide and inspiration to complete my own solar project.


The sub panel measures 16" x 14.5" and it is going to be placed to the left of the inverter at a right angle against the divider. In the picture below, there is plenty of slack in the 2 AWG battery cable now going to the inverter to make the three cuts, crimp on some lugs and connect the battery cable and the inverter cable to the terminal posts on the lower right corner of the sub panel. I will also tidy wires in the corner.

If all goes well this weekend, I will have my X23B in a "solar-ready" state.


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Old 02-26-2016, 07:25 AM   #25
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The individual panels will only produce around 5-6AMPS DC current when in high sun which will not require a heavy duty DC CABLE.

After you combine two or three of these individual solar panels going to the battery is where the larger gauge DC cables would be used.

If you want to bring a battery back up from its 50% charge state to its 90% charge state in a three hour time period the battery will want to see 14.4VDC with 17-20AMPS DC current capacity. This would require three 100WATT Solar Panels in the high sun for each battery in your battery bank. If you have more batteries then it stills works - just takes longer to get re-charged... Plan accordingly...

My OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer will only have enough roof space for three of the 100/120WATTS panels. The most I will expect to see current wise will be around 20AMPS DC current in high sun. You can see from this I will run out of high sun before getting my four batteries re-charged. I am basing this only giving me a good 6 hours of high sun in a day...

What I am going to do is run my 2KW generator for an hour each morning when allowed to run it and this will get all of my batteries past their initial high current demand point. My present three batteries demands around 53AMPS DC current when first hit with 14.4VDC and then start tapering back. My batteries all taper back in their DC current demand to 6-8AMPS DC current after one hour of charging. Then the 20AMPS DC current I am getting from the solar panels should get my batteries back up before I lose the high sun...

This is my planning at any rate...
Roy Ken
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Old 02-26-2016, 08:09 AM   #26
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As for the use of 4 AWG from the combiner to the controller, I would like to reduce voltage drop over the 20 foot run.



For a moment, I thought my pin connector idea was clever. However, it takes too much time. It would be easier to splice the 4 AWG welding cable to 4 AWG building wire using the butt splice connector.

I will be making this change.
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Old 02-26-2016, 04:56 PM   #27
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Here is a better method of going from welding cable to stranded wire.

For the welding cable, remove a 1/2 inch of the insulation and crimp in one side of splice connector. Put a 1.5 inch piece of heat shrink tubing aft of the connector (or put on before initial crimp). For the stranded wire, remove one inch of the insulation and crimp in the other side and then cut the stranded wire at the original one inch mark leaving a 1/2 inch of stranded wire protruding from the crimped connector. Use heat gun on heat shrink tubing.









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Old 02-27-2016, 06:46 PM   #28
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I went to the storage lot and installed the sub panel. I also did some prep work for running the cable down the refrigerator vent. My tip is to wire the battery sense and remote temperature sensor wires before connecting the leads to the battery.















As part of the prep work for next time, I removed some spray foam to reveal a hole to pass through wires - no drilling, woot!




The hole can just be seen and and a ray of sunlight cast against the sidewall.


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Old 02-27-2016, 07:06 PM   #29
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Keep the updates coming.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:32 AM   #30
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VERY NICE JOB!

Don
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