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Old 03-04-2016, 08:55 AM   #41
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Adjustable SOLAR Panel mounting bracket

Nice JOB!!!

You may want to look into these adjustable solar panel mounting brackets. You could use regular "Z" mounting brackets on the high side mounting and on the street side use these adjustable brackets. I plan on using them on my front panels.

Don
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:01 PM   #42
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Don,

I was thinking the same thing when it comes time for expansion. I found this tilting mount for $46 plus S/H. Last week, there were some available on Amazon for under $50; but, they are now sold out.

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Old 03-07-2016, 09:02 PM   #43
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I wouldn't bother with tilting mounts unless you are planning to be in one location for an extended amount of time. For the hassle of getting up on your roof to tilt or adjust all your panels each time you stop you are better off just installing another panel.

I put tilting mounts on mine as well and I can almost guarantee I will never use them.

Cheers
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:57 PM   #44
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Nice job

You will be happy with the Renogy panels

200 w is a good size and should be sufficient if you manage your power consumption

Consider LEDs if you haven't already done so.

Also look up " solar bob" on the Internet for some interesting read on solar power systems


If you have not placed the panels yet, consider opposition ends of the roof to improve 'take' when camping in shady spots
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Old 03-07-2016, 11:10 PM   #45
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I prepared the combiner. I used the following:

uxcellŽ Waterproof Cable Connect Power Project Case Junction Box 200x120x75mm

Blue Sea Systems ANL Fuse Block with Insulating Cover - 35 - 300A

Blue Sea Systems ANL 35 AMP Fuse

PG11 5-10mm 18.6mm Thread Black Plastic Waterproof Cable Glands

PG9 Black Plastic Waterproof Cable Connectors

Square D by Schneider Electric PK7GTACP 7 Terminal Ground Bar Kit


The bars and the ANL fuse block are mounted on a piece of luan.


The positive 4 AWG welding cable will enter through the bottom PG11 cable gland and then connect to the 35A fuse at the left post. The positive 4 AWG stranded wire goes from the right post of the ANL fuse block to the positive bar.

The negative 4 AWG stranded wire enters through the PG11 cable gland on the right and connects to the negative bar. The negative 4 AWG welding cable will connect to the 4 AWG stranded wire using a butt splice.

Wires from the panels will connect to the positive and negative bars through the PG9 cable glands.

TIP: Use 5/8" hole saw for PG9 and 3/4" hole saw for PG11 cable glands.


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Old 03-08-2016, 07:06 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmooney View Post
Nice job

You will be happy with the Renogy panels

200 w is a good size and should be sufficient if you manage your power consumption

Consider LEDs if you haven't already done so.

Also look up " solar bob" on the Internet for some interesting read on solar power systems


If you have not placed the panels yet, consider opposition ends of the roof to improve 'take' when camping in shady spots

Jim,

Thanks for the ideas. I converted my lights to LED last summer. I have read most of Solar Bob's blog which prodded me to size my wires accordingly based on length to avoid excessive voltage drop.

My planned install will have the panels at opposite ends, as much as possible, on the curb side. Ideally, I would have the HTT parked east to west with the curb side facing south.

I have purchased two adjustable tilt mounts from Rural Power Systems off eBay for $49 shipped each like the one pictured above. They have utility for me beyond tilting such as easy temporary removal and "shimming" to deal with the odd curvature up front. I believe I saved $60 when compared to GP's rebadge. They are to arrive by this weekend; however, we have winter scout camping then.

Building the combiner took a couple of hours, BTW. The Blue Sea ANL fuse block replaced an Xscorpion which I found to be cheaply made. The Blue Sea just fits in the project box.

Hopefully, I will have the panels mounted by the following weekend.
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:46 AM   #47
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I am going to make a revision to the combiner box. I am going to move the ANL fuse block from the box to the refrigerator access compartment to make for easy access to the fuse.

I will have pictures posted on Sunday.
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:34 AM   #48
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I thought that's what you were going to do, when I asked if you were putting in a fuse.
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:18 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klassic View Post
I thought that's what you were going to do, when I asked if you were putting in a fuse.

I have read that it is recommended to have a fuse between the combiner box and the charge controller to prevent damage to the panels. I initially thought it was clever to put it inside the box. While I am waiting on more parts, I second-guessed the placement and thought it better to have the fuse accessible from the ground.

I have also read that individual fuses for each panel before the combiner box between the panels and charge controller are not required for installations of fewer than three panels wired in parallel. However, individual fuses for each panel before the combiner box are required for installations of three or more panels wired in parallel.

The manufacturer typically provides the fuse rating for each panel on the label. For the fuse between the combiner box and the charge controller for panels wired in parallel, the size is determined multiplying the sum of the Isc (short-circuit current) for each panel by 1.56 and then rounding up to the next size commercially available.

I purchased the 35A fuse because it is the next size commercially available for an ANL fuse block.

For example, the Isc of my 150W panel is 9.08.

Two panel setup:

(9.08+9.08)*1.56=28.32 (and I rounded up to 35A fuse)

I hope this is helpful.
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Old 03-10-2016, 04:20 PM   #50
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This I did not know. I'll end up forgetting your equation when I am ready to start solar.
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