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Old 03-10-2016, 05:12 PM   #51
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:12 PM   #52
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It was a rainy day today. However, I revised the combiner box. The 35A fuse block will go into the refrigerator access compartment.

A few notes:

The pilot holes for each cable gland are 1.5 inches apart along a line about 5/8" from the top outer edge of the open box.

Using PG9 cable glands for the 8 AWG solar panel wire and PG11 cable glands for the 4 AWG stranded wire.

The positive and negative 4 AWG stranded wires enter through the PG11 cable gland at the bottom and connect to the positive and negative bus bars, respectively. The 4 AWG welding cable will connect to the 4 AWG stranded wire using a butt splice.

Wires from the panels will connect to the positive and negative bars through the PG9 cable glands.

TIP: Use 5/8" hole saw for PG9 and 3/4" hole saw for PG11 cable glands.


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Old 03-17-2016, 10:28 PM   #53
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I am waiting on a 60 degree plus day to install as per the instructions for the Alpha Systems sealant. Ugh!

In the meantime, I have been cleaning the roof with Dawn dish soap and inspecting all seals. It's a good thing I ordered two tubes.

In looking at the lay of the land that is the front portion of the roof, the crown of the roof transitions to level over the course of a sweeping radial arc. This would mean a panel placed in the front street-side corner would require one of the four mounting brackets to be severely shimmed, unless the panel were to be placed front and center.

A front and center placement may be susceptible to shading from the A/C roof unit. Saturday should be sunny but cold; so, I am going to observe the shadows cast on the roof over the course of the prime solar hours. My X23B is parked east-west with the street-side facing south at the storage lot. The alternative is placing both panels at the rear street-side corner.

Come on warm weather!
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:35 PM   #54
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Stay with your first plan. Separating the panels will help increase the odds of taking good sun light when camping in partially shady sites.

Thinking through the shadow casts from other rooftop appliances is smart.

I like your design..... You will too....
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:05 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebring96hbg View Post
In looking at the lay of the land that is the front portion of the roof, the crown of the roof transitions to level over the course of a sweeping radial arc. This would mean a panel placed in the front street-side corner would require one of the four mounting brackets to be severely shimmed, unless the panel were to be placed front and center.

A front and center placement may be susceptible to shading from the A/C roof unit. Saturday should be sunny but cold; so, I am going to observe the shadows cast on the roof over the course of the prime solar hours. My X23B is parked east-west with the street-side facing south at the storage lot. The alternative is placing both panels at the rear street-side corner.

Come on warm weather!
Ok, get some of these Adjustable Surface Mounting Brackets. You can use the regular "Z" surface mounting brackets for the center of the roof side and these brackets to adjust for the angle of the roof on the Street/Curb sides of the roof. These should level off the panel.

The angle of the sun over the AC unit will only affect the shadow effect first thing in the morning or last thing at night when the sun is at the lowest points. Should not be a big issue providing you left a little space between them...

Don
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:20 AM   #56
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Sorry,
The wrong picture was inserted in the previous post. Here is a picture/link for the correct Adjustable Surface Mounting Bracket . It looks like you could adjust the height to about 3 inches which should compensate for the arch in the roof.

Don
Attached Thumbnails
SOLAR - Adjustable SOLAR Panel Mounting Brackets.jpg  
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2013 Jayco Eagle 284BHS
250Watt Grape Solar Panel, MorningStar MPPT 60 Charge Controller
1500 Watt Ramsond PSI, 2 Trojan T145 Batteries (260Ah)
2 - AirSight Wireless IP Cameras (used as rear view cameras)
EnGenius WI-FI extender, D-Link wireless (n) modem
MagicJack Internet Phone
2012 Ford F150XLT, EcoBoost w/3.73
157" Wheel base, HD Towing Package

Our Solar Album https://www.jaycoowners.com/album.php?albumid=329
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Old 03-18-2016, 09:45 AM   #57
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Don and Jim,

Thanks for the ideas. I purchased an adjustable mount, http://amzn.com/B00UKOV6BI. Essentially, it consists of two L brackets at each mounting point to allow for separation and insertion of the aluminum bar to tilt.

What if I used a short piece of aluminum bar as an extension to the L bracket that is mounted to the roof. This extension would have a hole drilled to facilitate the connection to the L bracket on the panel.

I would use a piece of wood to create the template for making the extension from aluminum bar stock. The extension would be between two and three inches long; thus, eliminating the need for shims.

Does this approach make sense?
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Old 03-18-2016, 03:53 PM   #58
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Sure. Given that's it's only a mounting bracket shim, you could use almost any thing that is non corrosive. ( plastic )
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:09 PM   #59
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Though it was a cold day today, I got some work done today. Notable was installing the fuse block between the combiner and the controller.

I mounted the Blue Sea fuse block on a nominal 2 x 2 in the refrigerator access compartment.

Next tasks are to install the combiner box and the panels.





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Old 03-26-2016, 01:21 PM   #60
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Here are some views of the installation of the rear solar panel using tilt mounts.

First set of L brackets installed.




Close up of mount with both L brackets installed.





Combiner box crimped and ready to be shrinked.





Combiner box ready.





The mounts are sitting on a square piece of Eternabond and then sealed.





Clevis pins are used to hold the bars to tilt the panel. The panels were initially installed with locking nuts to establish pilot holes for mounting locations.





Another view of tilt bar.


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