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Old 02-23-2011, 08:55 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by obrienj View Post
Bob,

Thanks for the info.

Another question. I'm accustomed to using 3M sealants on a boat I owner a few years ago.

What sealants are generally used to seal around exterior wall fittings and, if different, external roof fittings on a RV?

Regards,
Jim
I'm on my first trailer, so I don't know about the roof. For the other, no one ever went wrong using a 3M product. They are one of the companies that you can always depend on to make a consistant product. I would stay with their white silicon for exterior sealing. If you ever need to get it off to reseal something, it's easy to remove, clean the surface with alcohol and reapply. I don't know if they still make the polysulfide products, but stay away from them as they have a tendency to deteriorate plastic and some like 5200 are impossible to ever remove. I've seen fiberglass decks pulled apart by trying to remove fittings that were bedded in 5200.
I wouls also sealing any openings in the exterior with epoxy and let it kick before putting the gasket material on, be it silicon or whatever, especially if there is a raw plywood edge exposed. That way, if your seal does leak, it won't wick intothe plywood and cause delamination of the plys. Interior grade luan will get pretty unhappy when it gets wet.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:57 AM   #12
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Until this trailer we have always had power cords that were just pushed or pulled to use and put away. I don't like this cord that I have to roll up and stash in a storage door. It is 50amp and heavy and I have to take it all out to use it.
You'll appreciate that 50A detachable cord when it gets cold.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:36 AM   #13
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Seann,

Could you post a parts list and source specifically for the new socket for the trailer and the plug on the end of the cord?

The power cord on my new 23' G2 Jayflight seems to be designed to get stuck and usually at an inopportune time.

Regards,
Jim
I got my stuff from Camping World... you can check there for price... I have had both styles and much prerfer the plug and play to the pull pull unknott unknott
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:35 PM   #14
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You'll appreciate that 50A detachable cord when it gets cold.


I am planning to get a 30 amp cord about 12 foot long for easier hooking up when we are traveling.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:42 PM   #15
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Best thing is it seals one more hole that bugs can enter the RV through.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:23 PM   #16
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I did this mod and got the cord and plug from Amazon.
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:49 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
I'm on my first trailer, so I don't know about the roof. For the other, no one ever went wrong using a 3M product. They are one of the companies that you can always depend on to make a consistant product. I would stay with their white silicon for exterior sealing. If you ever need to get it off to reseal something, it's easy to remove, clean the surface with alcohol and reapply. I don't know if they still make the polysulfide products, but stay away from them as they have a tendency to deteriorate plastic and some like 5200 are impossible to ever remove. I've seen fiberglass decks pulled apart by trying to remove fittings that were bedded in 5200.
I wouls also sealing any openings in the exterior with epoxy and let it kick before putting the gasket material on, be it silicon or whatever, especially if there is a raw plywood edge exposed. That way, if your seal does leak, it won't wick intothe plywood and cause delamination of the plys. Interior grade luan will get pretty unhappy when it gets wet.

Bob,

I know what epoxy is but in this case what specifically (product name if possible) are you referring to? When I look from inside at factory openings in the sidewalls I don't notice any plywood edge sealing. However, I prefer your approach.

Regards,
Jim
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:51 AM   #18
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Bob,

I know what epoxy is but in this case what specifically (product name if possible) are you referring to? When I look from inside at factory openings in the sidewalls I don't notice any plywood edge sealing. However, I prefer your approach.

Regards,
Jim
I'll elaborate. First, my background is in the Marine industry, so that's where this comes from. Anywhere there is going to be something through bolted, the accepted practice is to seal the raw edges with epoxy. I should say accepted REPAIR practice because from a manufacturing perspective, it's not a cost effective operation. It's much cheaper from the builder's standpoint to chop a hole with a router or jigsaw , stick in a window with some caulk and let the future owners deal with the problems. Any brand will do. Epoxy is epoxy, but for the record, West System is the best and is the marine industry epoxy of choice. We still use some kind of sealant around the hardware, but any sealant has a limited service life and it will eventually break down for whatever reason, constant moisture, UV, whatever. Knowing that the sealant will eventually breakdown and allow water to permeat, the epoxy sealed edges prevent the water from being wicked into the base material, mostly fiberglass.
It started with boat decks that were cored with end-grain balsa. Balsa was used because it's stength to weight ratio is very high when cut cross-grain and it is light and very strong until it gets wet. Once that happened, and it always does because deck fittings all eventually leak, the deck had to be opened up, the wet balsa had to be removed and the deck glassed in and re-gelcoated. The result is a much heavier structure. The same would apply to any exposed fiberglass edge. I personally think the reason luan is used extensively is because it is much lighter than a solid fiberglass shell, not to mention cheap.

When my new trailer gets here, I'm not going to pull all of the windows out and seal them, but as I do the required maintainance I will. I think the return on labor is very high for this type of preventive care because I've seen some bills for fiberglass repairs because of water damage that would make you choke.
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:39 PM   #19
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It is 50amp and heavy and I have to take it all out to use it.
According to the owner's manual, even with the pull-out style you are supposed to fully extend the cord due to a heat / safety warning...

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Old 03-17-2011, 04:23 PM   #20
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Question does the replacement cover the hole in TT or is it smaller I am not woried about doing the work just want to make sure that it will cover hole compleatly. have seen them on camping world on line but dosent tell you size. and in this case size might matter.
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