PVC Ball Valve for water heater drain plug replacement?

[ARoamer]

I'm thinking on using a PVC ball valve directly on their water heater drain replacing the plastic plug.
I'm looking at a full bore threaded PVC Schedule 80 Ball Valve, Quarter-Turn. Info states "for cold water use only". Working pressure, 150psi @73F. Test pressure 480 PSI. PVC pipe is derated at 140F by .22 = 30PSI working pressure.

I want to thread directly into the WH with no extra fittings.
I did a search here but couldn't find this specific info. Has anyone done this with a PVC ball valve successfully?

[SloPoke]

CPVC is made for higher temperatures... Don't use PVC

[RichCarter]

Originally Posted by ARoamer

I'm thinking on using a PVC ball valve directly on their water heater drain replacing the plastic plug.

Go to Amazon and search for "RV water heater drain valve". It's less than $10. That's what I have.

[Jerry713]

Curious why not use brass?

[ARoamer]

Originally Posted by Jerry713

Curious why not use brass?

>>"If your water heater has aluminum threads as you mentioned, we do not have a fitting that will work as brass and aluminum will have a galvanic corrosion because they are not compatible metals."<<

And besides the brass /aluminum issue, I want a full bore ball valve, not the slow draining tiny petcock brass fitting.
Looks like CPVC will work. (double the cost of PVC) Thanks SloPoke for the info, educated here again !

[Jagiven]

OP, what water heater do you have? I was not able to install just a valve, as there was not enough space between the plug and the air/fuel mix tube.

[ARoamer]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

OP, what water heater do you have? I was not able to install just a valve, as there was not enough space between the plug and the air/fuel mix tube.

That is a concern, that's why I was asking if it's been done.
I'm willing to machine material off of the valve if it's close enough, or try to find a elbow and or PEX fittings to allow this.
Sometimes I make things harder than they really need to be.....

[Randel J]

For our trailer, I removed the plastic drain plug and installed a stainless-steel close nipple then attached a 12" braided hose and quarter turn ball valve. Now all I do is hang the braided hose outside the water heater enclosure and open the ball valve to drain the hot water tank.

[Rustic Eagle]

The pic shows my HWH mod....., and used a plastic threaded male adapter at the aluminum tank threads. Similar set-up as described by 'Randel J'.

When required, I just unscrew (at the tank) the whole assembly for flushing.



Bob

[Hollander Mutthaulers]

Same setup as Rustic Eagle appears to have -
CPVC close nipple b/t tank and ss supply line -
Used PVC ball valve on end of line but in time it did not handle the hot water and leaked - now have brass ball valve -
Works really well - one of my favorite and most useful mods

[Johnynorthland]

I did the conversion with braided hose and 1/4 turn ball valve. At first I used a plastic fitting to screw in to the tank, but no matter what I used or how tight I put it in, I couldn’t get it to stop leaking, so I went to brass. I know I’m taking a chance but I pull it out 2x’s a year and check it, so dar it’s been ok the first year. I did use that grey Teflon tape by Oatey, it’s thick, maybe that’s helping?

[AncasterDuo]

I used the brass drain valve from our RV dealer. I went to plumbing supplier (our Home Depot has a guy that I consider knowledgeable) and asked about brass & aluminum together; he sold me some pipe dope that is made for this situation. With a little more space, I'd have preferred the elbow-to-braided hose arrangement.