Solar on the side connection

[Cdash]

I was hunting for a connector to hook up to the "solar on the side" on my HT. I saw that some indicated a standard 2 connector cord would work. I found one on Amazon that had an 8 gauge wire. Ordered and it showed up today.

Test fit on the camper showed it fits perfect. I'll be hooking this up to my mc4 cables for my portable solar panels.

For $8, it's a heck of a lot better than what Go Power asks for their plug.

Here is the link:

Workman TP-8 CB Radio Power Polarized Quick Disconnect 2 pin 24" 8 Gauge Wire
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEX3YMG..._obaIxbT6MTAVG

Sharing the knowledge!

[Cdash]

Here are the pictures of the cord, and the cord plugged in.

And I should have mentioned earlier, I plan to take the solar on the side wiring at the battery end and route it to my charge controller. I'll add it to my solar community thread after a get it done.

[Tomminny]

On my 2016 White Hawk, it looks like the solar connection is nothing more than the connector and two wires going to the battery. I would put a solar charge controller before the connection to the camper solar just to make sure you don't burn up your battery by over charging it.

[Fire_Instructor]

Use an electrical tester to check your 12v on-the-side connector. Mine was always "hot" at 12v, which told me that it's just connected to the battery. I opened the wall panels, and that's exactly how it was wired, but with 12AWG wire! The ROOF solar connector is wired with 8AWG.

Big difference....

[Rustysocket]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

Use an electrical tester to check your 12v on-the-side connector. Mine was always "hot" at 12v, which told me that it's just connected to the battery. I opened the wall panels, and that's exactly how it was wired, but with 12AWG wire! The ROOF solar connector is wired with 8AWG.

Big difference....

That would explain why they are rated for different amperages... One has to wonder why not just use the heavier guage wire though.

[Fire_Instructor]

Because the side connector is designed for one of the small 12v output systems, like the 45w system from Harbor Freight, or the 60w system from Northern Tool.... if the portable system outputs at 12v at a relatively low wattage, the connector on the side is all that you need.

I use MY side connector as a power supply for my macerator pump! My 300w of panels on the roof, keep my battery bank more than well charged!

[Rustysocket]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

Because the side connector is designed for one of the small 12v output systems, like the 45w system from Harbor Freight, or the 60w system from Northern Tool.... if the portable system outputs at 12v at a relatively low wattage, the connector on the side is all that you need.

I use MY side connector as a power supply for my macerator pump! My 300w of panels on the roof, keep my battery bank more than well charged!

I've never used a solar system before so this is all new to me. I briefly looked at the portable system the dealer had and then thought for the cost I'd likely not ever use it. However, I had not considered a less expensive system from Harbor Freight or the like. I will have to look into that as it wouldn't hurt to have if the price was right. Thanks for the idea.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

Because the side connector is designed for one of the small 12v output systems, like the 45w system from Harbor Freight, or the 60w system from Northern Tool.... if the portable system outputs at 12v at a relatively low wattage, the connector on the side is all that you need.

I use MY side connector as a power supply for my macerator pump! My 300w of panels on the roof, keep my battery bank more than well charged!

Yesterday I was just thinking about doing this with my side connector!
What kind of macerator do you have.
I wish the new 2017 option of the Sani Con turbo was available in '16.

[nevermind]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

I use MY side connector as a power supply for my macerator pump!

How many amps is the macerator rated to draw?

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

I opened the wall panels, and that's exactly how it was wired, but with 12AWG wire! The ROOF solar connector is wired with 8AWG.
...
My 300w of panels on the roof, keep my battery bank more than well charged!

Power = Current x Voltage

300w = Current x 12, which is right around 2.5 amps. Most panels run around 14-16v so the current is even lower. With that said, you don't need anything close to 12awg for a solar panel on your roof. If you're sporting a solar array, then add up the wattage and do the calcs.

[Fire_Instructor]

Not sure what the macerator amp draw is, but it's only got an automotive 15a fuse in it....

My panels are 300w, @ 34.4v output, at max, so roughly 9 amps. Wth solar, the concept is to do anything practical to minimize line-loss, hence the 8awg from the roof. (If I wired it myself, I would have used 6 or maybe even 4awg!)

[Fire_Instructor]

Originally Posted by klassic

Yesterday I was just thinking about doing this with my side connector!
What kind of macerator do you have.
I wish the new 2017 option of the Sani Con turbo was available in '16.

I have the Flo-Jet macerator kit. Works very well!
Flojet Waste Macerator Pump - Portable - Easy Waste Dumping-pplmotorhomes.com

[Fire_Instructor]

Originally Posted by nevermind

How many amps is the macerator rated to draw?



Power = Current x Voltage

300w = Current x 12, which is right around 2.5 amps. Most panels run around 14-16v so the current is even lower. With that said, you don't need anything close to 12awg for a solar panel on your roof. If you're sporting a solar array, then add up the wattage and do the calcs.

And, BTW, you need to recheck your math here... 300w @ 12v is more like 25 amps, not 2.5! You would need at least 0 awg for that! Especially with the distance from the roof to the battery compartment.

[nevermind]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

Wth solar, the concept is to do anything practical to minimize line-loss, hence the 8awg from the roof.

That makes sense...

[nevermind]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

And, BTW, you need to recheck your math here... 300w @ 12v is more like 25 amps, not 2.5!

Yikes! No more math before coffee in the AM!!!

[Cdash]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

Use an electrical tester to check your 12v on-the-side connector. Mine was always "hot" at 12v, which told me that it's just connected to the battery. I opened the wall panels, and that's exactly how it was wired, but with 12AWG wire! The ROOF solar connector is wired with 8AWG.

Big difference....

I haven't looked at that wire size yet. I do know that the "solar on the side" connector has two wires out the back and they are wire nutted to a ground wire that goes to the frame and another (+) wire that goes into the front wall/overhang to run over to the battery side. It is connected to an auto resetting circuit breaker behind the battery compartment (resulting in it being always hot as you described).

My plan is to remove that wire (Yellow/white in my case) from the auto reset breaker, and connect that to my charge controller. I'll verify gauge and run a different wire in the ceiling of the storage if needed. The whole purpose is to have an easy, outside connection so I don't have to run cables out a storage door when my panels (portable) are deployed for solar harvesting.

I attached 2 pictures. One shows the sticker next to the connector that states the Solar on the Side capacity is 20 amps, not that I am hanging my hat on it, but 20 amps would be their intention of capacity. That would be nearly 300 watts of panes at 12 volt nominal.

The second shows the wiring behind my battery. The Yellow/White (paired in the ring terminal with the orange wire) on the left side, is my wire coming from my solar on the side plug. I still need to figure out where that orange wire goes, or what it powers. I'll pull it off that auto reset breaker and connect to a junction block then to the charge controller.

[Fire_Instructor]

With DC wiring, you can't just look at W=V x A to determine the correct wire size. You need to look at the distance being run, and the line-loss. With solar, bigger is better when it comes to sizing wires!

[Cdash]

Yup, I'm on top of that. What I'm doing now is for portable, so amperage will be low, staying at my 200 watts. But I did decide that I'm going to put new wire going from the solar on the side plug to my junction posts by my controller. Looking at it tatters night, hat factory wiring is pretty thin. Design of these must focus on the line not burning up, rather than proper sizing for current.

[Cdash]

I replaced the wire today. Factory placed 12 gauge between connector and the battery area. I replaced it with 8 gauge, butt spliced to connector lead wires, and ring terminals to the junction posts near my controller. I used cable clamps to secure it overhead in the pass through compartment. I just left the factory wire in place, but not connected to anything so I can go back to stock if needed (not likely).

[ArmadaX213]

Originally Posted by Cdash

I haven't looked at that wire size yet. I do know that the "solar on the side" connector has two wires out the back and they are wire nutted to a ground wire that goes to the frame and another (+) wire that goes into the front wall/overhang to run over to the battery side.

So, is this correct? The negative wire from the "solar on the side" plug should be connected to the frame? I just purchased the Go Power 120 Watt portable kit and was going to hook it up via the SAE connection, but I noticed the negative attachment to the trailer frame so I didn't plug it in. Does the negative wire need to connect to the negative battery terminal?

Thanks for any help.

[Fire_Instructor]

Originally Posted by ArmadaX213

Does the negative wire need to connect to the negative battery terminal?

No. Ground is ground. As long as the battery has a good chassis ground (and I presume that it does, or nothing else 12v would be working), you are fine. 12v wiring is only one wire (hot), and achieving good common ground at each end.