Time to pass on My Mods

[RobertC]

Here are the ladder plans. Been occupied for a few days so need to get back to posting mods.

[RobertC]

As we usually camp without services, a solar power system helps extend our time. We are fairly stingy with our 12V power usage and don't frequently use an inverter so we don't need a big solar system (We do have a quiet inverter generator but hate listening to the noise and expect my fellow campers are equally adverse).

So we added a 110W panel, Sunsaver Duo charge controller and upgraded to a Group 31 12V battery which gives us enough power for our needs. The charge controller is mounted in the fridge chimney space (lower than the fridge coils) so gets some air flow from the draft of the fridge. We included a remote battery temperature sensor as the controller was likely a lot warmer than the batteries. We also have a remote display unit on the entrance kitchen cabinet to monitor the system.

The x213 back in 2009 didn't have mounting for multiple batteries and moving the propane and equalizer bar mounts was a major job. So to add more battery capacity I carry an extra 12V battery (Group 31, typically fully charged at home to start). We mounted a 12V outlet and a female 7pin connector (the same one on the back or our truck) to the case. We can then plug the extra battery into the trailer's vehicle connector cable to get the power to/from the second battery.

We move this portable battery around and can plug in air compressors, patio lights, water mister pump, 12V fans etc wherever we want.

With the solar system, 2 separate batteries, power jack, etc there was a lot of inline fuses needed at the front of the trailer . I added a weatherproof fuse box on the A-frame to have all the fuses in 1 place (and serves as a place to store a few of these 30A fuses if we blow one!!)

The Sunsaver Duo charge controller is designed to charge 2 independent battery systems and can prioritize to charge equally, or focus on 1 battery until it is full then charge a second battery. When I significantly drain my portable 12V battery, I can recharge it independent from the main trailer battery before reconnecting it to the trailer. I have also used this extra charge connection to recharged a few friends trailer/car batteries and a tiny 12v battery that runs my telescope. There is a connector in my fridge chimney compartment to plug charging cables for these other batteries.

This is not an ideal solar system as the charge controller is a just a basic PWM and the panel/batteries are fairly far apart - even using large gauge wire. We don't really have a great location for the charge controller that nearer. We would have liked to have dual 6V batteries but couldn't manage to mount them. We would like to add a second solar panel at the front of the trailer, or a "portable" panel so we can catch some sun when we are in the trees.

[RobertC]

Anyone who has an x213 knows the hot water tank is a long way from the little bathroom sink - so you drain a lot of water waiting to get a warm wash. With our smallish fresh and grey water tanks, this is an issue for boondocking.

So we created a device to re-circulate the cooled hot water back to the water tank, until hot water arrives. It uses a 12V valve, flow sensor, temperature sensor and a timer. If you open the hot water tap and the water is cool, the valve opens to direct the water back to the pump inlet. Once hot water is detected (or about 20sec elapses) the valve closes and you get hot water out the tap. (You can also ignore the sensors and force the valve open which is useful for winterizing).

This is probably my favorite mod!!! I got the valves/sensors via ebay I did post the general idea and my parts list here before (and am happy to send anyone interested in the details)- but it does take some effort to get all the bits from various vendors.

I am developing a more DIY friendly kit for others to do this. Apart from the challenge of getting all the suitable parts, I have improved the means to connect into the water system as not-everyone has PEX crimps. I am interested to hear feedback if this is a common issue beyond the x213 and where people would look for such a solution. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[Duke4857]

Originally Posted by RobertC

We do a lot of "boondocking" with our x213 in cooler weather but standard furnace will drain the batteries very quickly. We installed an Olympian Wave 6 catalytic heater and connected this into the gas supply. (it has a separate shutoff valve so it can be disabled in summer). We leave the bathroom vent and a window cracked open, but it is designed for RVs and the catalytic heat does very complete combustion - have never been able to detect any CO.

The heater slides out from the wall to allow access to the corner cupboard and provide more clearance when it is operating. It can also come off the wall and be positioned anywhere the 6ft gas hose will reach. The front grill gets hot but not sufficient to burn you, so it is good even with the grandkids around. We made a cover to protect it when not being used.

We added an in-line fan to the ducting. It is almost silent and uses very little power to draws heat from the back of the trailer + furnace area, and pushes it to the bathroom and front. It is wired to the thermostat "fan" connection so we can turn it on/off from the thermostat (thats another mod for later).

The heater works too well - even on the low setting it will get the trailer quite warm. If i did it again I would use a Wave 3

We had one in the old camper trailer, our Rockwood. It worked very well. We were always afraid the dogs tail might go in the screen and catch on fire. The Jayco we not have we use a Buddy Heater and set it on the stove out of tails reach. I bought Flame King refillable 1 pound propane tanks to use with the heater and BBQ grill outside.

https://www.amazon.com/Flame-King-Re...gateway&sr=8-6

[skiingviking]

Thanks for this Mod! I've been thinking of something other than a manual valve on the hot water leg returning to fresh water supply. If you have links to the sources for all the materials it would be helpful, no big deal if not. Thanks for the schematic!

[RobertC]

Originally Posted by skiingviking

Thanks for this Mod! I've been thinking of something other than a manual valve on the hot water leg returning to fresh water supply. If you have links to the sources for all the materials it would be helpful, no big deal if not. Thanks for the schematic!

I got most of my parts from ebay.com, digikey.ca (or .com) and my local electronics shop and trailer supply. Specific part #s I can't find but the specs are
Power switch: On-Off-Mon type rocker switch (look on digikey) as this is only 12v and very low amperage the other switch ratings are not an issue.
Flow Switch: 12V or more rating. (look on ebay). It needs to be Normally Open and conduct power when flowing - but all that I have seen are this type. Needs to handle about 1/4 amp.
Temperature Switch: 12V or more and >1/4amp. Should be Normally Closed and Open when temperature exceeds 35C. (look on ebay). They are usually identified as "bi-metal" switch.
Valve: Must be 12V. amperage draw may not be specified but it should be in the 200-300ma range. This is a Normally Closed valve that opens when power is applied.
Timer: There are lots of electronic timer switches with many operating modes (look on ebay). Most will do a time-out function where they conduct when power is applied and will disconnect after an adjustable time. Again, needs to accept 12V power source and pass 1/4 amp (although many have relay outputs so then can handle much more).

Hope this helps
Rob

[RobertC]

We often leave after work and get to our camp sites late. Backing up and setting up in the dark is a bit more challenging. I have added 4 strips of LED lights mounted under the trailer and facing down to light up the stabilizer jacks area. They are wired into the light switch on the hitch power jack so when the from jack light is on, the under trailer lights are on as well. Also wired it into the backup lights connection coming from the truck so they are on automatically when backing up. (There are some diodes to isolate the trailer battery source from the trucks backup light circuit to avoid backfeeding the truck). They light up the ground about 4-5 ft out from the trailer corners enough to see the rocks/trees I might miss.

We also added a string of LED lights under the awning like many others have done. We stuck with the standard warm white but added an remote controlled dimmer. (the dimmer/receiver is mounted inside a trailer cupboard so you need to get the radio "RV" remote control and not the "IR" remote to control it).

Overall these add a pleasent lighting outside and help with setting up in the dark.

[RobertC]

The cargo door on our x213 provides good flow-through ventillation but there is no screen on it. On hot nights it would be nice to have it partially open but that is a bit of a security risk.

So we glued 3/8" velcro "hooks" around the edge of the door frame and sewed up a screen/nylon panel to fit into the doorway. The edging on the screen is a polyester binding tape that is "fuzzy" so it can go around the corners better than the velcro "fuzzy" tape.

For security we just added a household door security catch (the kind that lets you open a door a few inches but holds after that). This allows the door to be open about 3" and you can't "unlatch" it from the outside. I added a piece of chain and quick-link to allow us to open the door wider (3"- 10") during the day (but it is pretty easy to unlatch if you can reach into the quick-link). We will need to think of a way to keep the door open in an wind.

The screen worked great last year and the latch is a new addition that we will be testing this season - but I am sure our bunk guests will appreciate the fresh air at night!

[firerose617]

Originally Posted by RobertC

As we are usually on battery power adding LED lights was high on our priority list. Back in 2010 the LED were $$$ so we modified the lights to have a 2 position switch and only replaced one of the bulbs with LEDs. We are now replacing the remaining bulbs with LEDs but it is nice to be able to have 1 or 2 bulbs active.

For the single light fixtures in the bunk areas, we also replaced the switches and added LED bulbs, but also wired in a single small LED+resistor to provide a nightlight in the 2nd position. Great for the grandkids

In the bathroom, there is a 2 bulb fixture where we replaced the switch and added a LED bulb, but for the second bulb we again added a single LED+resistor to provide a night light. You can see well enough at night with the nightlight and not be blinded by the full bulb brightness.

The LEDs make a big difference on power usage - and the nightlights use almost no power so they can run all night/

Where did you get the LED bulbs?

[RobertC]

The LED bulbs for the RV fixtures are available from any RV dealer and dozens of places online. I think I got mine from SuperbrightLEDs.com. For the "nightlights" these were made from discrete LED components - which I got from SuperbrightLED.com. You need a single small LED (5mm I think is what I used) and a resistor (about 1K ohm). You can get the specs of the LED from the supplier, and use an online LED Resistor calculator to get exact values. The supply voltage is 12V, forward voltage is usually 2.5-3.2V and the LEDs draw 20-50ma .

[sciencenerd]

Originally Posted by RobertC

As we usually camp without services, a solar power system helps extend our time. We are fairly stingy with our 12V power usage and don't frequently use an inverter so we don't need a big solar system (We do have a quiet inverter generator but hate listening to the noise and expect my fellow campers are equally adverse).

So we added a 110W panel, Sunsaver Duo charge controller and upgraded to a Group 31 12V battery which gives us enough power for our needs. The charge controller is mounted in the fridge chimney space (lower than the fridge coils) so gets some air flow from the draft of the fridge. We included a remote battery temperature sensor as the controller was likely a lot warmer than the batteries. We also have a remote display unit on the entrance kitchen cabinet to monitor the system.

The x213 back in 2009 didn't have mounting for multiple batteries and moving the propane and equalizer bar mounts was a major job. So to add more battery capacity I carry an extra 12V battery (Group 31, typically fully charged at home to start). We mounted a 12V outlet and a female 7pin connector (the same one on the back or our truck) to the case. We can then plug the extra battery into the trailer's vehicle connector cable to get the power to/from the second battery.

We move this portable battery around and can plug in air compressors, patio lights, water mister pump, 12V fans etc wherever we want.

With the solar system, 2 separate batteries, power jack, etc there was a lot of inline fuses needed at the front of the trailer . I added a weatherproof fuse box on the A-frame to have all the fuses in 1 place (and serves as a place to store a few of these 30A fuses if we blow one!!)

The Sunsaver Duo charge controller is designed to charge 2 independent battery systems and can prioritize to charge equally, or focus on 1 battery until it is full then charge a second battery. When I significantly drain my portable 12V battery, I can recharge it independent from the main trailer battery before reconnecting it to the trailer. I have also used this extra charge connection to recharged a few friends trailer/car batteries and a tiny 12v battery that runs my telescope. There is a connector in my fridge chimney compartment to plug charging cables for these other batteries.

This is not an ideal solar system as the charge controller is a just a basic PWM and the panel/batteries are fairly far apart - even using large gauge wire. We don't really have a great location for the charge controller that nearer. We would have liked to have dual 6V batteries but couldn't manage to mount them. We would like to add a second solar panel at the front of the trailer, or a "portable" panel so we can catch some sun when we are in the trees.

Excellent mods! We have a 2019 X213 and really like it. Will copy some of your mods.

As to the location of the solar charge controller: I am using portable solar, tying into the solar on-the-side SAE plug. It was wired directly to the battery, so I cut the wires and connected them to the charge controller. I mounted the charge controller (Sunsaver 6) in a second battery box on the tongue. I cut a little hole into the side and filled it with a plexiglass window so I can monitor the charge controller status without removing the battery box cover. This way, I have the charge controller very close to the battery.

[RobertC]

Very nice work and a great idea for charge controller mounting.

[RobertC]

Getting to the end of existing pictures so will need to wait a week till we get out for our 1st trip this year to add to my mods. But I have a few minor ones that are worth mentioning....

We have a number of 12V fans and USB charged electronics to run when we are boondocking so needed to add a few 12V cigarette lighter outlets. With our car USB chargers and a small inverter we are able to run any of the important devices so I can "work for home" from the campsite We added one outlet under the x213's table (by the 120VAC outlet) and one outlet by the front bunk.

As well, we do much of the cooking outside on the campstove or BBQ so we added a high pressure connection point at one of the 20# bottles and run a 30ft hose wherever we want the BBQ/stove (usually under the trailer to a table under the awning)

We still have the low pressure connection near the back of the trailer and may find a good use for it in the future - but have avoided modifying the bbq/firepit/stove to handle low pressure as they are often used away from the trailer as well. We are going to add a few more 12V dedicated USB outlets (top bunk and kitchen) both for fans and convenience of connecting things. As much as we like to "rough" it seems we can't live without being connected!!!

[RobertC]

We built a screen room to keep out the bugs and extend our outdoor time. It also blocks a bit of wind and retains some heat to allow us to sit & cook outside when it is cooler.

The screen room was built from some "gazeebo" replacement screen kits that we picked up at the hardware store at the end of the season. We added rip-stop nylon panels to make the side connections to the awning and the connection to the awning roller. The skirting under the trailer and the side awning/screen connections use magnets to attach. The connection to the awning roller incorporates a velcro strip that allows that connection strip to be left in place when the awing is rolled up. We also added a heat-resistant fabric panel adjacent to the hot water heater exhaust. Poles in the front and tent pegs along the bottom square up the corners and add wind resistance.

With the magnet and velcro connections to the power awning we can very quickly knock the screen room down and retract the awing if strong winds come up.

This has been a great addition that evolved over a few camping seasons to work well for us. It takes about 15min to set-up and very little space/weight to store it when not in use.

[Debdon Journeys]

I love the screen room I would like if you could post a few more pics of your wonderful mod

[RobertC]

Will take some more pictures of the details when I next go camping in 1.5wks. Thanks for interest.

[RobertC]

Over the last 10years our J-Steel Sofa deteriorated (not that it was ever very comfortable). It was an OK Sofa but its awkward to access the storage underneath and its a very lumpy/off-level bed After looking for ideas on the Internet we built a new one this year. It uses interleaved "slats" to expand the sofa to a bed size - or any intermediate size.

The slats are from IKEA (2.5 sets of Crib sized slats were used - but it is strong enough that I could have only used 2 sets and space them a bit further apart). The cushions are a memory foam twin mattress ordered off Amazon which we cut, upholstered and added a bit more polyester fill to round out the front seat edge and top backrest edge.

This is WAY lighter than the JSteel and much more comfortable as a bed. Fully retracted it provides about 6" more walkway space in front, and still has same size seating (although the back rest is more vertical). You can partially extend it to provide a wider seating and angled back. Fully extended it is about the same size as the JSteel. The front of the sofa is just fabric panels so you can just pull them up to access the storage (we also pushed back the small partition wall under the sofa to expand the storage). We are considering a bungy mesh fixed to the non-moving legs to retain the storage, but will see how it works without it. One added (unplanned) benefit is that when it is fully extended it works as extra seating at the end of the table!!

I have tested the couch in napping position and it works great!!!

[RobertC]

Last of the mods for our trailer - just got round finishing these off right near the end of camping season!!!

Anyway - we added some mini-shelves above the curtain valences by the table/couch. Also added some netting pouches above the window. They are small enough they stay out of the way when retracting the x213 rear pop-out. These are great for books, phones, toys, electronics, stuffed animals and all the smaller stuff that tends to end up all over the trailer when the grandkids are camping with us.

On the shelf over the table we added a 12V powered dual-port USB charger for charging gadgets and running a small fan to circulate air. It has an on-off switch as the USB ports otherwise the LEDs glow continuously and consume power when not in use.

Also added a 12V USB charger/switch to the top bunk area. This is primarily to run a small fan to circulate air as the bunks are hot when the weather gets warm. We had a 12V cigarette lighter style port for the lower bunk so just added a USB car charger to it and added a fan there too. Even these mini fans make a big difference to sleeping in the bunks and use almost no power for the more remote sites.

[OdiN1701]

Originally Posted by RobertC

The top bunks on the x213 is a bit high for the grandkids to climb so we added a fold away ladder. We wanted the ladder to be out of the way since it is normally just the 2 of us camping (and maybe a lower bunk guest).

Later we modified the curtain because it kept getting pulled out of the ceiling by people sitting down on the lower bunk, there wasn't much air movement with it closed at night and the grandkids on top/bottom couldn't agree on open or closed!!

So the curtain track was mounted to "snaps" with matching snaps in the ceiling screws so you can now sit on the curtain and it only pops the snaps rather than tear the screws from the ceiling.

Later we modified the curtain to create separate top/bottom bunk curtains with mesh panels for air and a roll/down portion to cover the mesh for privacy.

I'm going to need a ladder for our bunk next season. Where did you get this ladder?

[James AO]

Originally Posted by RobertC

Anyone who has an x213 knows the hot water tank is a long way from the little bathroom sink - so you drain a lot of water waiting to get a warm wash. With our smallish fresh and grey water tanks, this is an issue for boondocking.

So we created a device to re-circulate the cooled hot water back to the water tank, until hot water arrives. It uses a 12V valve, flow sensor, temperature sensor and a timer. If you open the hot water tap and the water is cool, the valve opens to direct the water back to the pump inlet. Once hot water is detected (or about 20sec elapses) the valve closes and you get hot water out the tap. (You can also ignore the sensors and force the valve open which is useful for winterizing).

This is probably my favorite mod!!! I got the valves/sensors via ebay I did post the general idea and my parts list here before (and am happy to send anyone interested in the details)- but it does take some effort to get all the bits from various vendors.

I am developing a more DIY friendly kit for others to do this. Apart from the challenge of getting all the suitable parts, I have improved the means to connect into the water system as not-everyone has PEX crimps. I am interested to hear feedback if this is a common issue beyond the x213 and where people would look for such a solution. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I did a version of hot water recirculation that’s a bit different and only uses three components. I used a common sprinkler valve (they are made for around 24 volts AC, but actually run perfectly fine on 12 volts DC), a FRM01 programmable timer relay, and an illuminated push button. I mounted the sprinkler valve in the wall behind the shower mixer valve. I put it here because it was the furthest point away from the hot water heater in the hot water line. I put the FRM01 relay timer inside the bathroom vanity cabinet, and the push button in the vanity cabinet wall. I wired the circuit so when I push the button the FRM01 opens the sprinkler valve and turns on the light on the push button. Both stay energized for the duration of the timer, and then denergize. I determined how long I wanted the timer to keep the sprinkler valve open by doing a test to measure how many seconds were required for hot water to reach the shower head when the mixer was set wide open for hot water only. For me it was 10 seconds, so I programmed the timer for 12 seconds. For plumbing I put a tee connector on the shower’s hot water line just before it reached the shower mixer valve. I connected the sprinkler valve’s input side to the tee. I ran a pex line from the sprinkler valve’s output side back to the fresh water tank (by far the hardest part). When I push the push button hot water flows from the water heater thru the lines to the shower mixer valve, but since the sprinkler valve is now energized the water flows thru the valve and thru the new return line back to the fresh tank. In 12 seconds hot water has reached the mixer valve. The sprinklers valve turns off. Hot water is now present at the shower. Turn on the shower, instant hot water. Total cost was about $40 plus the per pipe and connectors.