Water heater drain mod - would this cause problems?

[troutslayer]

Originally Posted by Sunflake

Ive had a different concern with the water heater and the plastic drain plug. Why on earth would the have it drain this way and then put the wiring diagram on the door where the water is sure to destroy it. I've wondered about a good way to save the diagram.

Take a picture of it and print it out?

[oldgrizz]

I installed a brass ball valve on mine and it has been there for 5 years with NO problem. I did remove it last year and there is no corrosion problem at all.
There are and have been brass fittings on water tanks for years with no problems.

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[norty1]

Originally Posted by Sunflake

Ive had a different concern with the water heater and the plastic drain plug. Why on earth would the have it drain this way and then put the wiring diagram on the door where the water is sure to destroy it. I've wondered about a good way to save the diagram.

If it's a Surburban, the door comes off.

[BullDozerBob]

Relief valves are designed for relief only.
Used at all besides pressure relief and they can start dripping/leaking.

BullDozerBob
Spokane

[oldgrizz]

Originally Posted by BullDozerBob

Relief valves are designed for relief only.
Used at all besides pressure relief and they can start dripping/leaking.

BullDozerBob
Spokane

In case you thought I installed a relief valve.. I did not...it is a ball valve ...simple 1/2 turn from flow to no flow. Simple open and close.
Works great

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[need-a-vacation]

Tundra,

Looks great!!! This is a mod I still need to do myself. Did you not find the nylon/plastic nipple at Lowe's along with the rest of the items? I thought they had the needed nipple as well.

Originally Posted by 01tundra

Got it all installed today.

On another note, anybody know what the red, cone shaped, plastic sleeve is for? -

[RoyBraddy]

If I open the hot water spigot without the water pump on or on city water and then open the low drain point I usually dump over half of the hot water from the H/W tank...

Of course once a year I like to pull my plug where the anode rod is for inspection. I have the Suburban model hot water heater... This drains down the water heater pretty much with just a small amount of water left in it.

Roy Ken

[BullDozerBob]

Oldgrizz
Just to clarify.
My reference to the relief valve was aimed at johnsoax opening the relief to aid in draining the tank faster.
Opening the hot water valve at either sink will also drain the tank once the your ball valve is opened.
Nice setup.

BullDozerBob

[SteveMM]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

Got it all installed today.

On another note, anybody know what the red, cone shaped, plastic sleeve is for? -

Nicely done! I managed to find a nylon version of the male-to-male adapter that I currently have in brass. I'm going to order from Amazon tomorrow. Should eliminate all concerns.

[SteveMM]

Okay ... brass gone and nylon in its place. The male-to-male adapter got a little chewed up when I was installing it, but it looks like it will work just fine.

[North of 49°]

I did this mod today. The hardest part was finding parts at the big box store that would fit together. I think it'll work out. I put teflon tape around the brass fitting that threads into the water heater, and all the rest were compression fittings.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by North of 49°

I did this mod today. The hardest part was finding parts at the big box store that would fit together. I think it'll work out. I put teflon tape around the brass fitting that threads into the water heater, and all the rest were compression fittings.

Almost the exact setup I have. Only difference my valve is a straight through verses your 90 degree. Works great. Mine has been installed for almost 5 years now.

[jbrnigan]

Anode with drain valve -

[Homersimpson]

Originally Posted by jbrnigan

Anode with drain valve -

That little hole won't allow you to flush out the scale, but at least it will drain. Nice that you can get the petcock with an anode for the Suburban tank and without for the Atwood.

[shadester]

Originally Posted by Homersimpson

That little hole won't allow you to flush out the scale, but at least it will drain. Nice that you can get the petcock with an anode for the Suburban tank and without for the Atwood.

Oh you can get one for the Atwood too. Anode Rod with Drain for Atwood Water Heaters - 4 1/2" - Camco - Water Heaters - Camping World Like you said though, you wont be flushing much out that small hole.

[RedHorse1]

I was reading through this thread over the weekend and it suddenly hit me. The pressure relief valve is brass isn't it. I took a look and I don't see anything isolating it from the tank except some Teflon tape.

[sennister]

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

I was reading through this thread over the weekend and it suddenly hit me. The pressure relief valve is brass isn't it. I took a look and I don't see anything isolating it from the tank except some Teflon tape.

My thoughts on the dissimilar metal issue isn't so much that the brass will corrode just over time will it become impossible to remove. In the case of the pressure relief, it isn't very common to replace them so odds are they are there for the life of the heater. In the case of a drain plug, well you are removing it every winter or when you want to flush the tank. With the valve you eliminated the winterization step but still may need to remove it to descale the tank.

[NismoGriff]

Originally Posted by sennister

My thoughts on the dissimilar metal issue isn't so much that the brass will corrode just over time will it become impossible to remove. In the case of the pressure relief, it isn't very common to replace them so odds are they are there for the life of the heater. In the case of a drain plug, well you are removing it every winter or when you want to flush the tank. With the valve you eliminated the winterization step but still may need to remove it to descale the tank.

I agree that the pressure relief valve is most likely there for the life of the heater. I had to replace my pressure relief valve on the 10 year old Atwood heater in my last TT. It figures that I'd experience one of those uncommon occurrences lol. That being said, what's to say you can't just make removing the drain setup and cleaning the threads up as part of your winterization? It's once a year and still allows your to easily drain your tank the rest of season. I honestly can't believe that a manufacturer hasn't come up with a better drain set up.

[sennister]

Originally Posted by NismoGriff

I agree that the pressure relief valve is most likely there for the life of the heater. I had to replace my pressure relief valve on the 10 year old Atwood heater in my last TT. It figures that I'd experience one of those uncommon occurrences lol. That being said, what's to say you can't just make removing the drain setup and cleaning the threads up as part of your winterization? It's once a year and still allows your to easily drain your tank the rest of season. I honestly can't believe that a manufacturer hasn't come up with a better drain set up.

Yeah but then I guess what is the point of this modification?

Maybe others do but I don't bother with draining my water heater in between camping trips. I guess I could save some weight but my heater is also in the back of the a camper so it is saving me some hitch weight. So for me I am draining it in the fall when I winterize. I don't flush the water heater every year so I could see a modification like this to make the winterizing a bit easier but if I was pulling it to service it I might as well stick with the plastic one. That is my plan by the way. Unless there is some compelling reason to drain the hot tank after every trip I am going to stick with the plastic one.

[NismoGriff]

Originally Posted by sennister

Yeah but then I guess what is the point of this modification?

Maybe others do but I don't bother with draining my water heater in between camping trips. I guess I could save some weight but my heater is also in the back of the a camper so it is saving me some hitch weight. So for me I am draining it in the fall when I winterize. I don't flush the water heater every year so I could see a modification like this to make the winterizing a bit easier but if I was pulling it to service it I might as well stick with the plastic one. That is my plan by the way. Unless there is some compelling reason to drain the hot tank after every trip I am going to stick with the plastic one.

Yeah, if you don't drain after every trip (which I do) there is less of a reason.

I wouldn't do the mod to make it easier to drain, I would do it so the water doesn't splash all over everything when draining. That's my real issue with the location of the plug.