Restoration beggings - Page 4

b1mmuo27 · 06-12-2015, 03:31 PM

I had to kerf the plywood skin going on the front of the trailer. The original didn't have 1/4 luan plywood on it. It was cardboard. Apparently many of the manufacturers of that time did the same. Its time consuming to do the plywood but stronger in the long run. It will have the ability to accept a bit of bang unlike the cardboard backing lacked. The front bedroom is all back together as well. The wiring as I said is back in the front wall so that's why I am putting the plywood on. I sprayed large gap filler in the void behind the cure in the plywood just to add so firmness.

namusmc65 · 06-12-2015, 05:41 PM

Beautiful job. Thanks for keeping us all posted. Much better quality than the professionals do I'm sure. Must be great to have your skill and be able to put this together on your on. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see the finished product.

b1mmuo27 · 06-12-2015, 07:26 PM

It's a labour of love.

wags999 · 06-13-2015, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1mmuo27

I had to kerf the plywood skin going on the front of the trailer. The original didn't have 1/4 luan plywood on it. It was cardboard. Apparently many of the manufacturers of that time did the same. Its time consuming to do the plywood but stronger in the long run. It will have the ability to accept a bit of bang unlike the cardboard backing lacked. The front bedroom is all back together as well. The wiring as I said is back in the front wall so that's why I am putting the plywood on. I sprayed large gap filler in the void behind the cure in the plywood just to add so firmness.

You could of used a product called "Wiggle Board". It is plywood made to form curves etc. Can do small radius of about 3". Very easy to use and very structurally strong, no need to kerf half the wood away to get it to bend. Used it for round soffits, cabinet ends, posts etc. Comes in 4 X 8 and 8 X 4 so can curve either direction. Would save you a ton of work and form nice smooth radius.

Nice job so far !

b1mmuo27 · 06-13-2015, 10:25 AM

Thanks that would have been good if I new that before I did it. I think it's a specialty plywood because I made some inquiries this morning. I sanded it this morning & I am going to fill the low spots with a fibreglass embedded filler just to get it rounded so the glass will sit tight on it without gaps.

wags999 · 06-13-2015, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1mmuo27

Thanks that would have been good if I new that before I did it. I think it's a specialty plywood because I made some inquiries this morning. I sanded it this morning & I am going to fill the low spots with a fibreglass embedded filler just to get it rounded so the glass will sit tight on it without gaps.

It is available from wholesale lumber and hardwood distributors, where cabinet shops purchase. If you don't have a local supplier most any cabinet shop could order it for you, I use to order special items for folks, never charged them much to do it. Thought good will was as important. There are many products available that you will never find at home Depot or Lowes, also much better quality products. Same with hardware items, much more selection than at your local big box or hardware store.

Enjoy seeing your rehab, big undertaking but will be very rewarding. I've got a growing list of mods I'm going to do this winter on our new 27RLS. We purchased it in Indiana in April and wont be home in Az till September, killing me cause I have limited tools with me.

You will have a unit that will fit YOUR needs, which is great.. a number of things I want to do to this TT to make it "ours". If you have other areas your going to be working on, post it and if I can make a suggestion as to materials I would be happy to do so.

b1mmuo27 · 06-13-2015, 10:13 PM

Thanks again. There are lots of things you can get in the States that we don't get up here in Canada. Structural things are done on my trailer. Just a bit more on the back roof & then I'm done. Then the plywood can go back on......then the final challenge the fibreglass.

b1mmuo27 · 06-17-2015, 04:43 PM

Finally got ALL the wires back into the DC panel. Had to add a switch for the electronic hot water tank. This wall can now be insulated & paneled.

b1mmuo27 · 06-17-2015, 07:28 PM

I don't know how this picture went sideways. It was taken this way.

bailee21 · 06-17-2015, 07:43 PM

this looks like
so much fun ...

b1mmuo27 · 06-17-2015, 07:45 PM

It is.

b1mmuo27 · 08-04-2015, 09:18 PM

It's been a while. Busy in the summer but I want to get all the glass back on by the end of September. The wiring is spliced back together in the front from the truck plug. I tested all the circuits before I closed the front in. I also put a light in the front cargo hold as it never had one. I am using ruxol insulation. Since the front only had cardboard for the backing of the filon this will make the front a little harder. This front piece has the most bends in it so thats why I want to do it first. I got around to putting some LED flood lights in my shop & its better working in there at night now.

**WVDusty** · 08-05-2015, 08:08 AM

Glad to see you are still working on it.. I've been following this thread from the beginning. Cant wait to see it Done.

DHH57 · 08-05-2015, 09:44 AM

First off, great job. Several post back you stated using silicon. Never use silicon on the outside of a camper. It will not stay and then leaves residual silicon preventing any other sealant from sticking. Use the buhtyl tape on your outside moldings and then seal edges with non-leveling RV sealant. It cost more but is worth it and will last a lot longer. Use self leveling rv sealant on the roof or EDPM tape. Some will use both.

b1mmuo27 · 08-05-2015, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DHH57

First off, great job. Several post back you stated using silicon. Never use silicon on the outside of a camper. It will not stay and then leaves residual silicon preventing any other sealant from sticking. Use the buhtyl tape on your outside moldings and then seal edges with non-leveling RV sealant. It cost more but is worth it and will last a lot longer. Use self leveling rv sealant on the roof or EDPM tape. Some will use both.

Thanks I"m not sure where I said silicone. I even looked back on my posts. I wont use buytl as IMO that is what causes problems. I have a 3M product that self seals when putting in the screw as it does when removing the screw. My roof is ruubber & I know what I am using on it too. Thanks

b1mmuo27 · 08-08-2015, 10:10 PM

Insulation all in. The front is now boarded. I think we"ll finish the front insulating the sides & boarding then tackle the filon on the front.

b1mmuo27 · 08-11-2015, 04:48 PM

Both sides I'm closing the front up. When I get that done its glass time on the front. The 1/4" luan ply makes it rock solid.

canuckowner · 08-11-2015, 07:08 PM

This is an amazing project. You're going to enjoy using that rig much more than a new one because so much of it will be your own workmanship.

It reminds me of that famous Red Green quote:

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."

Unfortunately I'm neither, LOL! But hats off to you sir ;-)

b1mmuo27 · 08-11-2015, 08:26 PM

I don't think I showed all the work from the beginning so here are some from the begging.

b1mmuo27 · 08-11-2015, 08:35 PM

These are from the beginning too

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