Restoration beggings

[b1mmuo27]

Yup it is. Thanks

[b1mmuo27]

I had to release the sheet at the top as it did not fall tight to the wall as I wanted it to. So I pulled it back a bit & re glued it. When dry I will try & pull it back down tight on the roof. It's hard to pull, no where to grip.

[b1mmuo27]

This definitely is not the easiest thing I have done so far. The glue works excellent. The 2 pieces touch, bang that's it. While in the process of setting up the wedges I had for the under hang to press in with, the drivers side piece touched together before I had time to place it flat. Poop happers. I had to cut a 2 foot square out, reheat to remove, then reglue. That's the 2 x 4 in the picture pressing it together just under the fold . Definitely was a 2 person job. Its on now & I'm not crying. This is the hardest piece of filon to put on. It will be spliced together like so many other. When painted you won't see it.....I hope.

[ALJO]

With jobs like that (also re-laminating countertops) use spacer strips from the same material about 1-1/2" wide. The material applied will not stick directly to the glue. Remove the spacers one by one pressing the laminate in place.
It's a big job you're tackling there all by yourself. Sometimes it is better to have the extra pair of hands helping you. Keep posting the pictures

[b1mmuo27]

My extra hands went shopping today.

[b1mmuo27]

The other problem is bending the filon around that front. The filon is stiff & it has to be pushed tight as it is gluing down. I went with a couple of scenarios before doing it this way. But hind sight as looks better.

[b1mmuo27]

Ok I took the trimmer to the sides & bottom. The very top has to be reglued as it will follow the contour now. The glass is tight at the sides but what appears to be delamination is actually me not pressing it on hard enough when first put on. That I can fix with glue & pressure. I"m a little happier after I trimmed it. At least it has plywood backing now not cardboard.

[b1mmuo27]

I forgot they were sideways. Better now.

[b1mmuo27]

One more time.

[ALJO]

I bet the frame on the 1998 would be heavier than present units they build.
I always like projects like that. The custom built units in the 70's had at least a ply layer on the outside. Every unit I see now the tin is right on the studs. All to save weight. But how long will the life span on a unit will be?


Do you work part time on your unit or full time?

[b1mmuo27]

The front had the heavy cardboard as I have heard most of the builders in that year did the same. Didn't want to spend time on wood going around those curves. I can also see why they put fibreglass caps on the front of the 5ers now too.

[ALJO]

Cardboard curves easier as 1/8 or 1/4 ply wood and is a lot cheaper. On mobile homes prior to 1995 they used it for the roofs too before metal went over.
Curving around wood is done with steam or a dry method is cutting grooves 1/2 " apart. Nowadays weight is the biggest concern with high fuel prices.


Yeah fiberglass caps you can prebuild and install. Problems with fiberglass is yell coat cracking I have seen that in a lot older units too (had one myself). Different materials have different structure faults.

[b1mmuo27]

Ya I use to steam wood as I had a 1964 34 foot Chriscraft mahogany planked hull.

[b1mmuo27]

I drilled 2 1 1/2" holes in the filon where you can see in the other pictures where I said it looked like delamination but it was just not glued. I sprayed in the glue then screwed the 2 x 6 on the face to pull it all back in. It looks good but won't know until I take the 2 x 6 off. I also reglued the top of the trailer & pulled it tight to follow the contour. It looks good as well. I put a little hood over my kerosene heater to help with the drying. Although it was 60 degrees in the shop it cant hurt.

[b1mmuo27]

Fixed the boo boo's. Glue is setting. I had to cut a slit right across the lower underhang where the 2 x 6 is. The filon actually left a "bag" just under the overhang. I had to cut an 1/8 off one piece to pull the filon back in tight. It's hard to do the front piece. But it's done , I hope.

[wags999]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Cardboard curves easier as 1/8 or 1/4 ply wood and is a lot cheaper. On mobile homes prior to 1995 they used it for the roofs too before metal went over.
Curving around wood is done with steam or a dry method is cutting grooves 1/2 " apart. Nowadays weight is the biggest concern with high fuel prices.


Yeah fiberglass caps you can prebuild and install. Problems with fiberglass is yell coat cracking I have seen that in a lot older units too (had one myself). Different materials have different structure faults.

Actually they make a plywood that will take curves very easy, no kerfing needed. It is called wiggle board, but is a tad more expensive than standard plywood. I used it all the time on round columns, rounded cabinet ends etc.

[wags999]

Originally Posted by b1mmuo27

I drilled 2 1 1/2" holes in the filon where you can see in the other pictures where I said it looked like delamination but it was just not glued. I sprayed in the glue then screwed the 2 x 6 on the face to pull it all back in. It looks good but won't know until I take the 2 x 6 off. I also reglued the top of the trailer & pulled it tight to follow the contour. It looks good as well. I put a little hood over my kerosene heater to help with the drying. Although it was 60 degrees in the shop it cant hurt.

I don't know exactly what type of plastic panel your using, but many plastics are thermoforming, which means you heat them and they will then form to that shape. Standard "Formica" is a thermoforming material. There are specific temperatures needed to form the plastic, once it is formed it will hold that shape. If you try and form it without the heat, it will always want to pull back to straight. Also contact adhesive needs pressure to bond properly. Typically a minimum of about 20 lbs per sq inch applied equally over 100% of the bond. You may want to ask if the plastic your using is thermoforming plastic. Thermoforming plastics can form to very small radius, ie Formica can form to about 3/16" radius without cracking.

Good luck, it's fun to watch your progress.

[b1mmuo27]

It's Filon. Half fibreglass, half plastic. It's what the coach was built with.

[BigJohnD]

Looks like it's starting to come together. Glad you're not letting it whoop you, and glad you're making some progress. I know there are times I've dealt with things not working quite like planned, I walk away cursing the crap out of thin air, come back later and it all works out in the end. Keep it up man, keep it up.

[wags999]

Originally Posted by b1mmuo27

It's Filon. Half fibreglass, half plastic. It's what the coach was built with.

I Understand it is an FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic), it may or may not be a thermoforming type plastic. I would ask the mfg.