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Old 02-18-2023, 04:01 PM   #21
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I don't have a Micro, but do have an Eagle 5th wheel. The floor is insulated, but the tanks and some plumbing are below the insulated area so unprotected except for the coroplast underbelly. I'd be concerned about prolonged temperatures below freezing.
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Old 02-18-2023, 09:48 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linmicsar View Post
We are taking our Jayco into cold Northern AZ Weather with nighttime lows below freezing 19 to 34 degrees. Daytime high 40s to low 50s.

Can anyone explain how our Glacier Package is beneficial? How is our furnace duct work laid out? Does is surround our water tank and is the insulation in our underbelly worth anything? I talked to a technician, and he said one doesn't know whether or not the insulation was installed evenly or tossed in landing on one side or the other.


Thank You,
Linda
Our 2016 RKS model year. We bought it in Oct. of 2015, it has glacier pak also. On our tt there is a heat duct going into the underbelly. There is also fiberglass insulation in the belly. Our TT was manufactured before Thor bought Jayco in 2016.
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Old 05-13-2023, 10:02 PM   #23
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Just purchased a Ď21 glacier package 166fbs. As you walk in, red switch on the corner of cabinet. You can confirm Switch is only for tank heaters?
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Old 05-13-2023, 10:15 PM   #24
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Yes, tank heaters. I have a 22 166FBS, and have the tank heaters. I just spent a lot of time under the trailer and can confirm no insulation anywhere, BUT, I just saw pics of an early 21 that had insulation at least under the water tank, and someone else chimed in that their early 21 had insulation also. Only way you would ever know is to pull down some underbelly and look.

Note that the switch will light up when you turn it on even if it is doing nothing, because the switch is 12V controlling a solenoid to turn on 110V for the heaters. On mine, the heaters themselves were unplugged. Plugs are down by the water pump, under the bottom drawer under the stove.
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Old 05-13-2023, 10:21 PM   #25
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I’ll have to take a look at them! I am mechanical but new to the camper 12v/110 world. Seems crazy to me to have so much to run on 12v, but then still need 110 for all the others.
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Old 05-14-2023, 05:08 AM   #26
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There isn't anything running on 110 that could be done on 12. Microwave, Air Conditioner, Water Heater (can do without if used on propane), and battery charger. Of course anything you plug in needs 110 also, such as (for me) coffee maker and toaster.

I have enough solar and lithium batteries that the charger is turned off, and the Microwave and outlets are run on an inverter. So, I only need to plug in for air conditioning.
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Old 05-14-2023, 05:13 AM   #27
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Incidentally, all Micros are Glacier Package, which just means the enclosed underbelly. Tank heaters are an option and not part of the package. No heater bypass in any I've heard of. Of course, as I mentioned above I've only recently learned that some early 21s have insulation above the underbelly, so it could be that somewhere there is a unit with heater bypass, just not mentioned anywhere.

I've had all of my underbelly off, reinforcing the water tank supports and installing external tank level sensors, so I know without a doubt I have no insulation or heater bypass.
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Old 05-14-2023, 06:42 AM   #28
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I also have the ‘22 more year. I can also attest to everything Don has mentioned. Something to note is that even though it says it’s a 21 model year my understanding is that none were actually delivered in 21. Look on the side panel sticker for exact manufacture date of your trailer.

Also as Don mentioned if you are adventurous pop the bottom cover off and check those support bars for the tanks.

Do you have the 12v refrigerator or the gas/electric version? Something to note I’m from AZ and in the hotter weather the gas/electric models run cooler/cold when running on 110v electric. It does not get anywhere eat as cold on gas. We have an inverter and lithium and extra solar installed and have been running it on electric for the past two months. We’ve put around 25k miles on the trailer now and can attest to this functionality in almost all states and elevations. Might only be our fridge, but others in AZ hav also shared similar results.
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Old 05-14-2023, 07:51 AM   #29
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The interior fridge is the gas/electric version. I think the outdoor fridge is 110? We did a short walk through but of course it was at the dealership and I really need to get just get hands in to learn.
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I also have the Ď22 more year. I can also attest to everything Don has mentioned. Something to note is that even though it says itís a 21 model year my understanding is that none were actually delivered in 21. Look on the side panel sticker for exact manufacture date of your trailer.

Also as Don mentioned if you are adventurous pop the bottom cover off and check those support bars for the tanks.

Do you have the 12v refrigerator or the gas/electric version? Something to note Iím from AZ and in the hotter weather the gas/electric models run cooler/cold when running on 110v electric. It does not get anywhere eat as cold on gas. We have an inverter and lithium and extra solar installed and have been running it on electric for the past two months. Weíve put around 25k miles on the trailer now and can attest to this functionality in almost all states and elevations. Might only be our fridge, but others in AZ hav also shared similar results.
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Old 05-14-2023, 08:54 AM   #30
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I did peek under the drawer under the stove, found the plugs plugged in for heater pads. Also found this clear hose, is this an overflow or something to be concerned about? Also peeked at the water heater, and found the bypass valves. When you fill, sanitize, or winterize, do you bypass the water heater or is it necessary? Manual says to bypass water heater so thereís no sanitizing solution in the heater storage tank.
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Incidentally, all Micros are Glacier Package, which just means the enclosed underbelly. Tank heaters are an option and not part of the package. No heater bypass in any I've heard of. Of course, as I mentioned above I've only recently learned that some early 21s have insulation above the underbelly, so it could be that somewhere there is a unit with heater bypass, just not mentioned anywhere.

I've had all of my underbelly off, reinforcing the water tank supports and installing external tank level sensors, so I know without a doubt I have no insulation or heater bypass.
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Old 05-14-2023, 09:05 AM   #31
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You put the clear tube in the bucket of antifreeze and turn the valve so the pump sucks it in instead of water from the tank. Yes, use the bypass.

Many, many of us have removed the outside 110V fridge and used the space for other things. Probably most use it for storage. I removed the inside wall and use the space for the dog bed.
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Old 05-14-2023, 09:20 AM   #32
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This is a video of a 171BH that has the insulation. They bought theirs in the spring of 2021. Also a good primer on the tank reinforcement, although everybody does it a bit differently.
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Old 05-14-2023, 10:29 AM   #33
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Easy peasy on the reinforcement, although I had imagined adding some sort of support versus just changing the screws to bolts. But a good video nonetheless!
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This is a video of a 171BH that has the insulation. They bought theirs in the spring of 2021. Also a good primer on the tank reinforcement, although everybody does it a bit differently.
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Old 05-14-2023, 11:11 AM   #34
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Those steel straps are more than adequate, but a number of people have had tanks fall, or nearly fall, due to the self-tapping screws pulling out. So, a lot of us travel with only a little water in the tank, which is hard to do for serious boondockers. Other than the one above, all of the reinforcements I've seen reported drilled out to 5/16 or 3/8 for bigger bolts. I chose to stay with 1/4 hardware. Tapped the upper hole to 1/4-20 as a 1/4 20 would not go through the hole unless drilled out or tapped, then used Grade 8 hardware, bolt, washer, washer, locknut. Original screw also shown in photo.
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Old 05-14-2023, 06:27 PM   #35
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Nice work!
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Originally Posted by DonBr View Post
Those steel straps are more than adequate, but a number of people have had tanks fall, or nearly fall, due to the self-tapping screws pulling out. So, a lot of us travel with only a little water in the tank, which is hard to do for serious boondockers. Other than the one above, all of the reinforcements I've seen reported drilled out to 5/16 or 3/8 for bigger bolts. I chose to stay with 1/4 hardware. Tapped the upper hole to 1/4-20 as a 1/4 20 would not go through the hole unless drilled out or tapped, then used Grade 8 hardware, bolt, washer, washer, locknut. Original screw also shown in photo.
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Old 05-14-2023, 09:56 PM   #36
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Since we are on the topic of water, any insight of where the water filter is located? Have a camco filter to use while filling, but would like to service the internal filter as well.
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Old 05-14-2023, 10:21 PM   #37
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No stock internal water filter I'm aware of.
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Old 05-15-2023, 04:41 PM   #38
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The micros in general do NOT have any water filter. There is the little debris screen by the water pump but that’s it. I have use the Clear2-O filter as it also has an optional sediment filter. Which I know has saved us a few times when I dump it out to move I check it’s color and WOW. After a few questionable places it turned orange from iron or other things in the water.

I did install a BlueTechnology filter under the sink but have taken it out as there just is t any good mounting location.

Anyone else found any good location for a “in-house” filter? Maybe by the pump?
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Old 05-15-2023, 05:18 PM   #39
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I just filter at the faucet with a Camco, then drink (and make coffee with) bottled water.
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