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Old 11-07-2012, 10:46 PM   #1
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2012 whitehawk dsrl won't level

No matter what I do my I can't get my new whitehawk to level out.
Always leaning to the side with the slide. I can pull jacks up and build up on that side, but when I lower jacks back down that side doesn't get any power from the jack motors. Also withe the pressure off of the front jacks I can move the with my hands freely up and down is this normal. Any suggestions
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:21 PM   #2
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The stablizer jacks are just for stablizing your camper after you get it set up. you cannot use them for leveling. You have to put a board or something under the tires on the low side to level it.I have a Whitehawk 27DSRL also and I find that if I leave it a half a bubble low on the door side, it will level out just about perfect when I put the slide out. Hope this helps you.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:12 PM   #3
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Thanks for the input. Leveled the wheels as you suggested much better. Still pretty shaky though. Have you figured out a way to make it a little more stabil.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:23 PM   #4
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If you are setting up on dirt or sand, you need a hard surface of some kind under the stabilizer pads. I made myself four 6" high treated wood blocks. 2 pieces of 2by8 8" long toped by 2 pieces of 2by6 8" long.
Four 6" carriage bolts in each and a handle on the end of each. I use them all the time. Adjust the stabilizers until fairly stable, but you will never be able to get it completely stable.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:55 PM   #5
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Try a pair of the X-Chocks between the wheels. It will stop a lot of the movement. Like these http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...FQU5nAodnSEAWw
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:50 PM   #6
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Try a pair of the X-Chocks between the wheels. It will stop a lot of the movement. Like these http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...FQU5nAodnSEAWw
^^^ x2 ^^^

Also, the less you extend your stabilizers the more effective they are. Build some cribbing under them and you should have better luck. You will never take all the bounce or wobble out though, and you will drive yourself mad in the process if you try.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:25 PM   #7
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I have (8) 15" 2x8 boards that are notched in the middle so that can be put together in a "+" pattern for the full height or layed flat to get either 2" of 4" of height depending on what is needed. I use the most height possible so that the stab jacks extend the least amount. I found carrying these 8 boards is better than when I used to carry a variety of 4x8, 2x8, 2x6 etc.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:55 PM   #8
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Try a pair of the X-Chocks between the wheels. It will stop a lot of the movement. Like these http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...FQU5nAodnSEAWw
Definitely get the x-chocks. Takes a ton of the movement out.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:26 PM   #9
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Thanks to all of you for your input. Did some research on the xchocks and found they make a pair that extend to seventeen inches. I will need those due to my tt having the extended space between the axles....
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:50 PM   #10
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thats not normal

I also have the 27dsrl. I have it in the driveway right now ready to go camping tomorrow with the slide out. Still level with no stabilizers. I have never had it lean towards the slide side. Important to note I had a jayco popup that had all the weight on one side.. it always blow out tires on that side. If it is not level with the slide out something is wrong. Call jayco and take it back to dealer and get it corrected. So far my 27dsrl only has two problems, well, three. Plastic "molding" has separated on front bedroom door.. Stove vent fan doesn't work. Indoor speaker blew out. Other than that and completely lacking insulation R values I am so far happy with it. Again address the problem, don't fix the symptoms. Every camper out there need this "break in period".. make sure you fix all issues.




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Thanks to all of you for your input. Did some research on the xchocks and found they make a pair that extend to seventeen inches. I will need those due to my tt having the extended space between the axles....
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:24 PM   #11
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Thanks to all of you for your input. Did some research on the xchocks and found they make a pair that extend to seventeen inches. I will need those due to my tt having the extended space between the axles....
Hi Dwillie,

Could you please tell me the model # of that x chock, and did you find it online? I too need the extra wide one for our Whitehawk 28.

Thank You.
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:09 PM   #12
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I am ready to pull the trigger on purchasing the 27DSRL. That thought came to mind about being diff to level with power jacks. I am consid on just ordering the manual jacks. Does this make sense???? Thanks hubertus08
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:14 PM   #13
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Don't know if this is the right thread to ask this, but since I have an audience of DSRL owners..., I have a 2006 Toyata Tundra, Tow cap of 6,700 lbs, The unit I am looking at weighs 5,880 dry. Assuming I put in an average of 500lbs of cargo, Am I getting too close for comfort of being able to tow it??? Since I have seasoned listeners maybe you could advise me. Thanks
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:11 PM   #14
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Don't know if this is the right thread to ask this, but since I have an audience of DSRL owners..., I have a 2006 Toyata Tundra, Tow cap of 6,700 lbs, The unit I am looking at weighs 5,880 dry. Assuming I put in an average of 500lbs of cargo, Am I getting too close for comfort of being able to tow it??? Since I have seasoned listeners maybe you could advise me. Thanks
IMHO....that is really pushing it, you only have a little over 800 lbs to play with, by the time you add the weight of a WDH, cargo and passengers, I'll bet you will go over limit. Pulling on the hills will tax your TV pretty good too. Just my 2 cents
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:39 AM   #15
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2 passengers is already figured into the weight of the truck so I have 800 pounds of cargo to work with, but I feel you're right that's cutting it close, especially on the hills...
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:12 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by hubertus08 View Post
Don't know if this is the right thread to ask this, but since I have an audience of DSRL owners..., I have a 2006 Toyata Tundra, Tow cap of 6,700 lbs, The unit I am looking at weighs 5,880 dry....snip
Please comment if I'm incorrect...., but in another thread you referenced the Tow Capacity @ 6,900lbs, the unit "has a sticker weight of 5,800lbs" (yellow sticker weights represent 'ship weights'), and the 5,880lbs was the "CAT Weight with 2 passengers and two small dogs".

Reference thread: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...855#post116855

Just want to confirm if I should revise my data in the prior thread.

Thanks in advance,

Bob
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:50 PM   #17
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Actual weight of Whitehawk with options as on the sticker by the door of unit: 5,817 lbs
According to my TV manual (2006 Toyota Tundra, 4.7 V8, Double cab, w/Tow package, 4x4 is 6,700.
Not to exceed 12,600 combined weight. Had my TV weighed at a CAT scale: 5, 820 lbs with 2 passengers That's the info I have, too many numbers.... makes my head swim.

I really like the unit but may it's not to be. Thanks, hubertus08
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:16 PM   #18
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hubertus08,

Thanks for the follow-up.

I don't want to drift to far of the OP's subject matter on this thread, so my follow-up is posted at your orginal thread here: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...855#post116855

Bob
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:11 PM   #19
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I am ready to pull the trigger on purchasing the 27DSRL. That thought came to mind about being diff to level with power jacks. I am consid on just ordering the manual jacks. Does this make sense???? Thanks hubertus08
Remember, you will not be 'leveling' with the power jacks, only 'stabilizing'. In fact, the salesman who sold us our Whitehawk warned us that many people burn up their electric stabilizer jacks trying to level their TT, an expensive proposition. He advised a simple electric drill to use with the manual stabilizers, saved money and works well, a great suggestion. We love our Whitehawk!
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:25 PM   #20
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I am ready to pull the trigger on purchasing the 27DSRL. That thought came to mind about being diff to level with power jacks. I am consid on just ordering the manual jacks. Does this make sense???? Thanks hubertus08
As mentioned above they are to stabalize your trailer not to level it. So using electric or manual stabs doesn't matter. You level your trialer at three points. Your wheels ( both sides ) and your tongue . Your stabs are not really meant for leveling. I was told most electrtic stabs have a cut off point. When they can't move anymore the motor cuts off and they stop . So electric or manual will be fine. I have electric and love them but manual works well too.
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