A Bit Disappointed...

[Murff]

As we have family coming for Easter dinner today, I was excited to show off the new White Hawk 20 MRB to them. I went out to put down the stabilizing jacks and I cannot believe how cheap and flimsy these appear compared to the other trailers we have owned over the last 32 years.

After checking the label, it states the jacks are rated for 2500 pounds. After checking the CW catalog, the lowest load capacity they sell is 5000 pounds. I understand that the 2500 pounds per jack is more than enough to hold up the 6000 lbs I may put in the trailer, but when you already see rust forming on the washers of the lifting mechanism, it is a bit disheartening, especially when I have always considered Jayco a higher end product.

I am just disappointed but will give the stabilizers a chance but am already considering some BAL replacements.

Murff

[Grumpy]

When was your trailer delivered to the dealer? It probably came through lots of snow and salt and I bet the dealer didn't clean it off, hence the rust. As to the 2,500 lbs if you have 4 that is 10,000 for a 6,000 lb trailer, Would work fine for me. Just my 2 cents.

[Tim L]

They are STABILIZER jacks, and definitely NOT meant to lift the trailer...

[okieinalaska]

You shouldn't need near that weight, you only put them down to touch the ground and then a little extra snug. They are to stabilize not to level. The rust is a bummer though.

[Murff]

I understand what the jacks do. My point of this post was how flimsy the grade of metal used to produce these stabilizers compared to other brands on previously owned trailers.

It appears, to me, that the heavier better quality stabilizers decrease the amount of rock and roll than these new ones.

Murff

[bucko]

Head over to your auto parts store and buy a bottle of rust inhibitor, such as this:

Amazon.com: Permatex 81849 Rust Treatment, 10.25 oz. net Aerosol Can: Automotive

It distroys the rust, and prevents any new rust from forming.

[gloryb]

DH was surprised at the rust on the frame of our new 23rb which we just brought home. One reason we bought new instead of used is so that kind of stuff wouldn't have to be repainted. I guess we were wrong on that count!

[33 RLDS]

Nothing is made to last anymore. How to you think China is growing financially. Make crappy products, that we buy, that wont last and then you have to replace them. I don't know how many grinding coffee makers I have bought in the last 10 years that at $200+ a pop, that don't last longer than 2 years.."They don't make them like they used to" has never rung truer than today...

[okieinalaska]

Bucko would that be safe to use on my equalizer hitch? its time to touch it up.

[bucko]

Originally Posted by okieinalaska

Bucko would that be safe to use on my equalizer hitch? its time to touch it up.

Sure. It's only a spray that resembles spray paint in "texture". It will go on clear, then turn dark/black. You could then spray paint the surface afterwards with whatever color you wish.

I brought home (from Germany) an old WWII kubelwagon while working there. I used this on its body panels, as getting body panel parts for this thing was impossible, and I wanted to leave it as original as possible. In the 5 years I owned it, the panels never rusted further with that stuff, and I was able to easily paint over it.

If you have holes or "eaten" metal that has weakened the metal, that is a different issue, and would require immediate attention for the metal to be replaced/strengthened; if its surface type rust, this stuff will kill it, and allow you to paint over it. The directions will tell you to sand or steel brush off the rust, then spray this on. It also comes in bottle form that you can brush on.

[Shanmarski]

Went to pick up trailer from storage. Huge amounts of rust and several bolts were snapped in half and broken. Trailer is unsafe to even tow. Left it there. Everything is closed today so I'll have to call tomorrow. I had the undercoat done and paint protectant done. What the ****. I've only owned it for 9.5 months please tell me this is not normal and they will do something. Pretty ticked off atm

[Dirkdaddy]

That stuff is probably phosphoric acid, I have used it on car restoration and it apparently changes the rust chemically and it won't rust further, then you can paint it later. You can buy that acid in different forms I used a pump spray bottle.

[TWP723]

Shanmarski - What unit do you own? What year?

[Shanmarski]

The other problem I have is all the bolts have rusted to the point of corrosion. And 20 of them have actually snapped in half.

[tugboat95]

I work on steel boats in the ocean, so I know a little about rust and it's prevention. You cannot just slap rust converter on it and go. You have to remove the rust. If it's just surface rust This can be done with a wire brush or a 4 inch grinder with a wire wheel attachment. If it's deeper and has a flaky appearance it has to come off. Two ways of doing it. Take a welders chipping hammer and beat it off. Cheap and labor intensive depending in the size. Great for small area or very spotty rust. The other method requires an air compressor capable of maintaining 90 -110 cfm @120psi. Pancakes won't do it. Hookup a needle gun, harbor freight sells them for about 40-50 bucks. I would go this route if entire frame needs it. Needle gun beats off the rust with almost no effort on your part other than laying on your back. THEN AND ONLY THEN apply your rust converter. I like a product called Ospho. Corroseal is another one that's good. Apply according to directions and wait 24 hours. Then prime at least 2 coats with Aklyd based primer with a paint brush. Top coat can be latex enamel of good quality designed for metal for ease of clean up and it will last. Better performance though would be an epoxy. However this stuff is expensive and requires mixing and has a short working time. All in all it's a pain to work with. But you will never do it again unless it's chipped off by rock etc. I will actually be doing this to my TT this fall after I'm finished for the season and before it gets too cold. Paint can be applied by brush or Roller and does not required spray equipment but it does help speed up the process if you have access. Prevention of rust is ALL in the prep. You have to get it off before you paint. If not it will continue to grow under the paint. I have to also point out if you have holes in the frame either before or after needle gunning, then you frame is weakened and you may need to look into welding on patches or other solutions. There is an epoxy product out there called Red Hand. After applied it hardens and can be machined, ground, or sanded smooth. And it holds. I wouldn't hesitate to use this On a few small holes. There are thousands of tugboats out there being held together by this stuff....However if it's really eat up then replacement is a better option as these frames are thin and I'd worry about stresses on the road.

[Tunce the traveler]

Originally Posted by TWP723

Shanmarski - What unit do you own? What year?

Like he said" what unit do you own & what year"? Odds are you have a smart phone so some pics would sure help. To be honest I having a hard time understanding this one. I've been under some really old ones here on the west coast and have never encountered this problem to the degree that you have. Wonder if your unit has been in the salt water for some time. You just joined and only 2 posts so this unit must be " new to you" and how old again and did it live on the beach?