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Old 07-11-2015, 07:22 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by dbphantom View Post
Fuse at Batts blows or melts regularly. Not consistent with the operation of an specific piece of equipment. Like the slide out or a heavy draw. Rv dealers are not sure why that fuse is even there. The 2 heavy gauge black wires that connect to this fuse line lead to the main breaker panel. Looks like one wire connects to the back of the panel in such a way that the next thing in line would be a reverse polarity 20 amp fuse. Any help or clues would be greatly appreciated.
If that RV dealer doesn't know why that fuse exists DO NOT let that dealer work on your electrics!
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Old 07-13-2015, 06:30 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by tnchuck100 View Post
If that RV dealer doesn't know why that fuse exists DO NOT let that dealer work on your electrics!
For sure!


On trailers with electric brakes, doesn't the 12 volt battery also power these electric brakes? Could the 30 amp fuse be blowing due to a problem with the electric brakes?
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Old 07-13-2015, 06:38 AM   #13
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For sure! On trailers with electric brakes, doesn't the 12 volt battery also power these electric brakes? Could the 30 amp fuse be blowing due to a problem with the electric brakes?
When not towing the electric brakes are not energized. The breakaway switch wire connected to the camper battery is not supposed to be fused. It should be a direct connect to the positive terminal of the camper battery. So, no, the electric brakes are not causing the fuse to blow or melt.
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Old 07-16-2015, 02:45 PM   #14
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I don't have an answer for you but we just returned from our very first trip with our new trailer and our fuse from the battery blew 3 times! Going right back to dealer for them to investigate.
Dealer just called us. They ended up replacing the 30 amp main fuse with a thermal reset breaker. It was their opinion that the fuse there is insufficient.
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Old 07-16-2015, 03:32 PM   #15
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Did they mention that if it trips, you have to wait for it to cool before it resets?
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Old 07-16-2015, 03:55 PM   #16
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Did they mention that if it trips, you have to wait for it to cool before it resets?
No, just briefly talked on the phone. Sounded good to me but what do I know...

After thinking about it wondering why it was getting so hot in the first place. Is the real problem solved?

So, how long does it take?
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Old 07-16-2015, 04:11 PM   #17
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So, how long does it take?
A few minutes.
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Old 07-18-2015, 10:04 PM   #18
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Sounds like a bad connection creating resistance. Also your not connected to your trailer connection on your tow vehicle when this occurs are you?. Being plugged into AC and connected to tow vehicle at the same time can short things out. I didn't like the fuse holders and connections on our trailer so I mounted a weatherproof box with 2 circuit breakers and a master cut off switch next to the battery. Since doing this I've had no power issues.
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Old 07-19-2015, 05:52 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by matt1751 View Post
Sounds like a bad connection creating resistance. Also your not connected to your trailer connection on your tow vehicle when this occurs are you?. Being plugged into AC and connected to tow vehicle at the same time can short things out. I didn't like the fuse holders and connections on our trailer so I mounted a weatherproof box with 2 circuit breakers and a master cut off switch next to the battery. Since doing this I've had no power issues.
Just to keep facts straight: If everything is wired correctly there is no problem with the tow vehicle connected while also connected to shore power.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:07 AM   #20
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I know that a bad connection will produce heat. I don't know what most of you do, but I packed mine with dielectric grease and tucked the fuse holder inside the battery box. The dealer just allowed it to be outside of the box where water spray and road salts would definitely cause issues with time.
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