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Old 07-10-2015, 02:17 PM   #1
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Battery 30 amp fuse melts

Fuse at Batts blows or melts regularly. Not consistent with the operation of an specific piece of equipment. Like the slide out or a heavy draw. Rv dealers are not sure why that fuse is even there. The 2 heavy gauge black wires that connect to this fuse line lead to the main breaker panel. Looks like one wire connects to the back of the panel in such a way that the next thing in line would be a reverse polarity 20 amp fuse. Any help or clues would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:20 PM   #2
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Double-check your connections to insure you don't have reversed polarity somewhere.


Then look for chaffed, rodent-chewed or just plain shorted wiring between the battery and the converter or other direct connected system.


Check that the breakaway plug is properly seated.
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:00 PM   #3
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The fact that that fuse is melting and not your converter pretty much answers the "why is it there" question. Mike has the right idea here. The other thing might be to pull all your converter fuses, plug in your batt fuse, then add the others in one by one until there is an issue. I would do that after checking what Mike387 referred to. That is a lot of draw to melt a 30 amp fuse rather than blow it.
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:26 PM   #4
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Be glad that fuse is there. It protects your electrical system and battery. You can also pull that fuse, to disconnect the “load” from the battery, as there are lots of parasite drains that will discharge your battery in about two weeks, if you’re not connected to shore power.

Number one thing that blows the fuse is a powered tongue jack, which reaches the end of travel.

If it is blowing for no apparent reason, I would start by following the wires from the battery to back to the converter box. Good chance you have a pinched, frayed wire somewhere, most likely within about 3 feet of the battery. I wrapped all my exposed wires on the tongue area in friction tape, for protection.
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:04 PM   #5
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The DC OUTPUT of the CONVERTER/CHARGER is 45-55 DC AMPS depending what model you have. The DC CURRENT coming out of the BATTERY is around 200AMPS for a short time. If your short to frame ground is close to the CONVERTER/CHARGER unit then BATTERY DC CURRENT will melt your CABLES between the BATTERY TERMINALS and the frame ground short. This is why you have a fuse real close to the battery - protects the cables and the battery... The frame ground short could also cause the battery to explode on you as well if it wasn't protected by an in-line fuse.

You might indeed have your battery terminals reversed... The for sure way to determine this is find the MARKED NEG or the symbol '-' on the battery case and make sure this is the cable coming from the frame ground.

Some folks just remembers that ground was on the left or right. Then they go get the same new battery and hook it up without looking. Then they find out the manufacturer has swapped the terminals on them after they blown all there fuses first...

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Old 07-10-2015, 06:41 PM   #6
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I don't have an answer for you but we just returned from our very first trip with our new trailer and our fuse from the battery blew 3 times! Going right back to dealer for them to investigate.
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:25 AM   #7
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Blown fuse

Thanks for all the input guys. I will be checking all those things and will post the results
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:34 AM   #8
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If the fuse is actually melting as you describe I would suspect a loose or corroded fuse holder.
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Old 07-11-2015, 01:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnchuck100 View Post
If the fuse is actually melting as you describe I would suspect a loose or corroded fuse holder.

Correct!!!
A fuse that is blown is a result of a heavy load or a short to ground.
A fuse that is melted is a result of a loose connection or to large of amperage fuse.
If it is melted then Solder in a new fuse holder and put dielectric grease into the cavity before inserting fuse.
Just my .02
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnchuck100 View Post
If the fuse is actually melting as you describe I would suspect a loose or corroded fuse holder.
X2 I had a problem with this same 30 amp fuse melting - note it was not burning the fuse link, but the entire fuse would melt. The problem was a faulty fuse holder. Dealer gave me a new one and as soon as I changed the holder out with the new one, the problem was solved. Never blew a fuse in the remaining 2 years that I owned the rv. IMHO if the problem were a short, it would blow the fusible link not melt the plastic.

Worked for me, but I have been known to be wrong.
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