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Old 09-05-2016, 04:35 PM   #1
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Question Can we "de-Baja" our 195RB?

Thought we were going to get a high-clearance TV but still towing our Baja edition trailer with our 2007 Toyota Highlander. This means the trailer can go places the Highlander can't ... and I find the trailer less stable and harder to keep level when camping. So ... can we "de-Baja" the thing? Thanks for your advice!
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:14 PM   #2
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DE-BAJAing

I believe to "de-Baja", you need to flip the axles over, thus reducing the height of the axle from the road. That may also necessitate a smaller tire. All this may be over simplified; you should probably seek advice from a reputable RV dealer, e.g. JAYCO itself. You may also just be able to retrofit smaller wheels/tires. I myself have a Jayco 154BH, Baja Edition, running 15" tire. Anyone else?
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:26 PM   #3
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Thanks!

Info is much appreciated--it really helps to know a little bit about options in advance of asking the dealer. This is a 2015 195RB trailer.

Kc
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:33 PM   #4
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Ours has 5" extra under it, I use a stack of 3 2x8s nailed together to give the stabilizers a bit of help. We are considering some BAL stabilizer arms and/or super stabilizing the wheels to help with any movement.

I do notice when we just set the stabilizers down without anything under them, we do get quite a bit more movement inside. It seems as if I reducing the movement quite a bit.

Wheel chocking has been a huge thing also when it comes to movement.

What do you do now to stabilize and level?
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kate Camp View Post
Thought we were going to get a high-clearance TV but still towing our Baja edition trailer with our 2007 Toyota Highlander. This means the trailer can go places the Highlander can't ... and I find the trailer less stable and harder to keep level when camping. So ... can we "de-Baja" the thing? Thanks for your advice!
What do you mean it's hard to keep level while camping? Unless you get a flat tire at camp it should stay, where you put it.

If you level it side to side, then front to back. It should stay level. Then add stabilizers, it should not bounce to much (they all bounce). We do put plywood pads under our stabilizers, and give them a crank after we have used it for 12 hours or so. This helps with stability.

As for clearance, most people want more, not less.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:35 PM   #6
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Leveling and stabilizing

A2Z, thanks for the reply. On our last trip, we put pads under each stabilizer and that did seem to help. I had been thinking that perhaps the stabilizer feet were sinking into the dirt after awhile. We also chock the wheels and have never noticed forward/backward movement. BUT! The pads are not much bigger than the feet, so I like your idea of distributing the weight a little more by using bigger pads. Our next trip will have us parked on asphalt so I'll definitely check that out. Also, I did convince my partner to crank down the front wheel after disengaging from the hitch, rather than trying to shore up the stabilizers to level to the elevated hitch, and that has helped a lot! Again, thanks!
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:40 PM   #7
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More good info!

Jagiven, your comments are most appreciated. The 12-hour hint is great--it must seem crazy to some of you that we wouldn't have thought of that, but we didn't! I hope I can be as helpful in the future as you all have been to me!
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:06 PM   #8
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Home depot scrap bin was my friend or just some cheap 2x8 for now. Slice em down to a foot long each then screw a couple together. Now your surface contact area for spreading the weight is 12"x8" so you may not sink as much. Plus you get height to find the sweet spot on the stabilizer. If it increases by just touch, then try another block or two next time. If any of this does not work go back to the conversion idea and burn the wood in the campfire. The stabilizers have a sweet spot and I think packages like "Baja" go past that and Jayco does not do much to adjust for the change.

I also do the 12 hour thing for snugging things up.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:45 PM   #9
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.... I did convince my partner to crank down the front wheel after disengaging from the hitch, rather than trying to shore up the stabilizers to level to the elevated hitch, and that has helped a lot! Again, thanks!
The nose gear, aka tongue jack, must be down, and holding the majority of the nose weight. The stabilizers are only stabilizers. They are not designed to level the unit nor lifting the unit. They do look like car jacks but the are not built to the same standards. A couple of 2x8s under the low wheel will level from side to side. Tongue jack to level front to back. You can use a couple pieces of plywood instead of 2x8, to get a little less leveling lift.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:29 AM   #10
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With all of the people on here searching for way to increase their lift it's unusual to see someone that wants to reduce it. What Jagiven said about the tongue is a must. You need the tongue jack for weight distribution because the stabilizers aren't meant to carry the weight. This is probably the reason for your problem. The jack will keep it level. The stabilizers will reduce the bounce. Re-snug the stabilizers every 12 hours or so.
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