Choosing electric tongue jack

[bobuva]

I'm a new owner of a Jay Flight SLX 193RB and want to purchase a power tongue jack. Are there any specifications that I need to consider?

I've seen on Amazon, and in other reviews, that this one from Lippert is supposed to be pretty good. Does anyone have opinions on this jack or anything related to using one with a 193RB?

Thanks!

[Camper_bob]

I replaced the OEM jack on my trailer after it filled with water and failed.

I made sure to get an "overrated" jack for the job since I was not just lifting the tongue of the trailer, but the rear of my truck to get the WDH bars on easier.

I purchased a Husky Brute, and it was one of the best "mods" I ever did to that trailer. Ball bearing screw drive, weatherproof head, and used an auto-reset breaker instead of a fuse.

[bobuva]

Thanks! I'm not that handy with trailer tech yet, so was thinking of having Camping World install it.

[brwarrior]

It's a. Easy install. 3 bolts to undo and install. You'll need something under the frame to hold it up. If you try to use the stab Jack's to hold it the world will implode and it will be your fault (says the Internet).

[bobuva]

Thanks! I'll first checkout some youtubers then decide if I want to try it myself.

[Jim Davis]

To do the installation just shackle it up to the tow vehicle. Then make the swap.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Jim Davis

To do the installation just shackle it up to the tow vehicle. Then make the swap.

+1

That's what I did. And it really is that easy (3 bolts, hook up the wires, done).

DON'T use the stab jacks, they will buckle. The world won't implode, but you'll have a REAL bad day. Don't use jack stands or blocking to hold the tongue up because if it moves, it will fall. Safest thing to do is hook it up to your truck, block the tires, and get to work.

[RogerR]

I replaced the hand crank with an inexpensive tongue jack. Total weight on the tongue of a 195RB is well under 500 lbs. and mine was rated 3,500 lbs.

Lift up your tongue to a bit above level and put some cribbing under it to safely hold it. Put down your stab jacks as emergency backup or hook up to car.
Unbolt the old jack ( 3 big bolts on the tongue.) Set new one in place. If it has a light point it towards the hitch or follow directions. Bolt it down, making sure that you have no paint on at least one of the bolt holes to get a ground.

There is a single wire attached to the jack, run it to a fuse and then the plus side of the battery. Test. DO NOT RUN IT HARD INTO THE TOP OR BOTTOM OF THE STROKE, EVER. This can break it. Label and put the manual crank where you can find it if supplied.

[Brownie]

Another vote for the Husky "Brute"! AND, another vote for doing it yourself!

[FishNFarm]

I put the tongue on the trailer ball to hold it.

[JFlightRisk]

Be sure of the electrical connection type. I've seen some that you have to plug into the 7 pin on the truck. You're probably looking for one that connects to the TT battery for power.

We bought a Bull Dog 4000 lb jack for our TT, mainly for the sale price at the time, and the 5 year warranty.

[01tundra]

I went with a Husky Brute and love it.

Hooked the trailer to the truck and installed it.

[MontanaRick]

I have a 195RB and one of the first mods I did was adding an electric jack. I got the Lippert 285318, 3500 lb capacity. It has to lift the tongue and the back of my 4Runner when I hook up or unhook my Andersen hitch. I'm not that handy, and it was an easy install. As others have said, hook up to your tow vehicle to support the tongue, take 3 bolts off to remove old jack, drop the new one in, bolt on, and run the wire with fuse to your battery. Done.

Pros: Works well for its intended purpose. Has a light, but I never use it. Fairly low price.

Cons: Not waterproof, which I find totally insane, as it is meant to be outside, but you will need a cover. The head gets in the way of opening the back of my 4Runner when hooked up. We keep folding bikes in the back, so we have to unhook to get them out. Luckily the electric jack makes this easier.

[FishNFarm]

When I finish engineering and building my $3.00 yes 3 dollar electric tongue jack and post it on here you are going to want to slap your self and no telling what the LW will hit you with for wasting gas money.

[bobuva]

Thanks for all of the input! I decided to go with the Lippert Smart Jack and had Camping World install it. Works great!

[SAMM Kinder]

My only add is to buy a canvas or alike bag cover for the top of the jack ..... Water or moisture is not your friend !! Love my Jayco 185 RB !!!

[Highlander]

+1 on Husky Brute

[Bandit12]

Seems like a lot of folks are impressed with the Husky Brute. I've been researching this for a while and while the Husky is a popular unit, I'm leaning in a different direction. In the course of my research, I found that the Husky, while designed and engineered in the US, is being built and assembled in China. Nothing totally wrong with that, just my personal preference. For folks that have and like the Husky, great, more power to them. When I do need to replace my jack (and I won't do it out of my pocket as long as the trailer is under warranty or its an emergency situation) I will be going with a Barker VIP jack. Made in the USA, if I go with the 3500, which is overkill, it has a 18 or 24 inch stroke, torque limit switch for extension and retraction, bolted on foot pad 2 year warranty, can easily have the head turned to give you more room for your tail or lift gate depending on your tow vehicle, and the same ball screw design as the Husky. It also has a built in level you can calibrate yourself on top of the jack. The level is easily removed in case you need to manually raise or lower the jack.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Bandit12

Seems like a lot of folks are impressed with the Husky Brute. I've been researching this for a while and while the Husky is a popular unit, I'm leaning in a different direction. In the course of my research, I found that the Husky, while designed and engineered in the US, is being built and assembled in China. Nothing totally wrong with that, just my personal preference. For folks that have and like the Husky, great, more power to them. When I do need to replace my jack (and I won't do it out of my pocket as long as the trailer is under warranty or its an emergency situation) I will be going with a Barker VIP jack. Made in the USA, if I go with the 3500, which is overkill, it has a 18 or 24 inch stroke, torque limit switch for extension and retraction, bolted on foot pad 2 year warranty, can easily have the head turned to give you more room for your tail or lift gate depending on your tow vehicle, and the same ball screw design as the Husky. It also has a built in level you can calibrate yourself on top of the jack. The level is easily removed in case you need to manually raise or lower the jack.

I agree. The Barker was my "alternate" choice. IIRC, it got kicked out because I couldn't get one fast enough? I really needed one RFN, and I could get the Husky faster that particular day. And price probably had a little to do with it as well since I wasn't sure how warranty coverage would work. Turned out my dealer surprised me and offered free replacement when I went to pick it up. Service manager was SUPER busy and didn't want to deal with the paperwork right then, even though I was ready and willing to cover the price delta between the OEM replacement and the upgraded Husky, so he just had me leave the FIC that I removed and grab the Husky; I was on my way in about 2 minutes. I guess he found time later to do the paperwork...

[Red Wing]

This is a simple swap. Like everyone says 3 bolts and a simple electrical connection. I would not pay Camping World to do it. I bought a Bulldog 4000# on Amazon. Works great.