Cut Power Cord

[cbaka27]

I was out of town last week and my great neighbor in an effort to be a great neighbor decided to snow blow my driveway. He did not realize my trailer was plugged in and he cut my power cord with the snowblower. Its the cord that pushes back into the trailer. How do I swap that out with a new one? Do I have to remove the door that the cord pushes into? Any help is appreciated.

[SkyBound]

There are kits you can buy that convert your trailer to the receptacle type plug. It involves removing the current plastic port piece (that your cord goes through) and using butyl sealant putting the new hardwired piece in its place. The kits aren't that expensive and depending on where your current cord got severed, if you have enough length remaining you can use that cord to wire in the new connector.

[eow]

I second Skybounds recommendation. Much more convenient than the mouse hole for the cable.

[Jagiven]

It depends exactly on where your power enters the HTT, and where your circuit box is located.

The easiest solution is to a twist lock style cord. Cut the cord a couple feet longer than the outside wall. Remove the old cover, install a new twistlock hardware, caulk and screw it in. Buy a new cord. FYI, it looks like you do have to modify the hole a little to get the kit to fit.

Otherwise, making assumption your cord and circuit box is in the same location as on my 23B, along the back wall. Remove the circuit box (disconnect the battery first), there are 4 screws holding the box in place, as I recall you have to remove the decorative trim. My HTT is in winter storage and I cannot access it . The box is hard to remove at first, pull it out just a bit, and then you will need to reach in, mostly blind, and remove a screw that anchors the shore power cord to the floor. Once the cord is free, it is easy to pull the circuit panel box out. Then tie string/cord to the old power cord, pull it out, tie the string to the new cord and pull it back in (have help with this). Then put it all back together, make sure to reanchor the cord (but give yourself a little extra cord). I would think you could easily have ether option done in less than an hour.

Good Luck

[RoyBraddy]

I've seen some folks just add a plug to the good side and then go purchase an 25-foot or bigger extension of the same size wires... Keeps you digging into the wiring inside the trailer...

I think if I went this route I would cut off the pulled out cable just a foot or so from the trailer and then add a 25-50 foot 10 gauge construction grade extension cord to run to power source...

Roy Ken

[Iraqvet05]

If I remember correctly from messing around with my old 26BH, the power cord get wired directly to the power distribution panel. There were a few strain reliefs on the cord but one was impossible to remove without damaging it. I had a WFCO distribution panel with a plastic strain relief that clamped over the supply power cable then snapped into the back of the panel box. I believe that strain relief used a special tool to install and wasn't reusable. If this is your case, I'd also go with the twist lock cord mod/upgrade.

[Bigbeartroop122]

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-30ARVKIT-125V-Conversion/dp/B000NUYZQC

[Riverman]

This worked well on my trailer:

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Mar.../dp/B000NUYZQC

[cbaka27]

Originally Posted by Riverman

This worked well on my trailer:

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Mar.../dp/B000NUYZQC

Thanks for the info. I think I am going to try this when it warms up a bit.

[Riverman]

It's sure not cheap, but I hated poking that long cable back in the little rat hole every time I used the trailer.

[geezerbob]

I did what river man did and really liked it

[cbaka27]

I only lost about 3 feet of cord on the plug end. I purchased a new plug on Amazon and just wired it in. I think I am still going to upgrade the entire thing with a twist lock solution but this was the quickest fix.