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Old 02-23-2022, 01:35 AM   #1
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Experience with 12v compressor fridge

Anybody have real world experience with a 12v compressor fridge running on solar? (8-12 cu ft built-ins like those being offered on Jayfeather Micros.) Seems like everytime this gets mentioned, calculators get dragged out by people insisting it can't possibly work. But they seem to all be guessing at assumptions about run times, available sun, etc. Looking for people actually trying to or making it work.
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Old 02-23-2022, 06:18 AM   #2
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I can't help you but I have been wondering the same thing. I tried using my small outdoor kitchen model plugged in to my 400 watt inverter thinking the solar would keep the batteries charged up on daily drives. The 400 won't start the fridge, it blows a fuse. I hope you get an answer on a 12 volt model because that was my next thought.
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Old 02-23-2022, 08:49 AM   #3
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no 12v fridge experience, but-

Sorry but no experience with a 12v fridge, but I do run solar for all of my 12v loads. There is no reason why it can't be done with the proper setup. Example--


Furrion 12v 10 cu ft refrigerator specs.
High efficiency DC compressor
Input voltage: DC 12V (min. DC 10.5V to max. DC 17V)
Input power rating: ≤ 15A (11A @ 12V DC)
Energy Consumption: 1.08kWh per day

a 300 watt solar panel will generate 1.22kWh/day under ideal conditions.

A 12 volt 105 AH battery can supply (under perfect conditions and to 100% discharge) 12 x 105, or 1260 Watt-hours (1.26 kWh).


This would be under perfect conditions and not running other 12v loads.
Flat mounted panels would need to be doubled to 600 watts in the winter due to low sun angle, less daylight hours, and there will be cloudy days. The battery ah would best be doubled also and lithium as they can be discharged more. Even then you may be running a generator if you have a stretch of cloudy days.

So. Rough estimate-
6 -100 watt panels $480
Decent charge controller- $300
2 100ah lithium iron phosphate, $1000+
+ Hardware, wiring, etc, around $1900 to $2000 to run your fridge and probably not much else.


I know some people hate em', and in some cases cannot use one, but if possible just use a rv fridge on LP.
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Old 02-23-2022, 12:32 PM   #4
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Got one. Camped sone 50 nights now but not all boondocking
Ran down the battery in six hours boondocking
Solar panel needs wide open sun
Wont find that in gloomy heavy forests like in Northern Maine
Bring a generator
Had a little more sun last week Juniper Springs FL. Took 15 hours on two batteries
It is horrid for boondocking. Maybe in the desert in the summer
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Old 02-23-2022, 02:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim Gass View Post
Got one. Camped sone 50 nights now but not all boondocking
Ran down the battery in six hours boondocking
Solar panel needs wide open sun
Wont find that in gloomy heavy forests like in Northern Maine
Bring a generator
Had a little more sun last week Juniper Springs FL. Took 15 hours on two batteries
It is horrid for boondocking. Maybe in the desert in the summer

Kim, I'm curious as to real world performance, would you please post your solar panel watts, battery type and size and 12v fridge size?

Thanks!
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Old 02-23-2022, 03:00 PM   #6
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The problem with solar and refrigerators is that it depends upon so many things.

I have a 3.8 cu ft domestic that draws 3 A at 50% duty cycle in the summer. Let's go high and call it 50 watts to make numbers easy.

50% × 24 hrs/day * 50 watts = 600 w-hrs per day

An OK 12V deep cycle lead acid battery is around 80 amp-hrs, lets call it 1000 watt-hrs. But you can only use half capacity or battery damage will occur,so an 80 amp-hr battery is really only 40 Amp-hr. You likely will have 2 batteries, so we are backe 1000 watt-hrs actual battery capacity.

So the fridge will require 60% of the avalable battery capacity each and every day.

One strategy is to run the generator to charge for an hour in the morning and let the solar finish charging batteries.

IMHO you really want 4 deep cycle 6V batteries for a small compressor fridge and a bare minimum of 200W solar.

In winter a correctly oriented (tilted) solar panel is 3x more productive than one laying flat.
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Old 02-23-2022, 04:39 PM   #7
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2 group 24 AGM batteries
drawn down to 12.3 volts. then the fridge kicks out
8 cu ft fridge
100 w solar panel flat
We are not interested in more panels as we mostly camp in the forest
The grnerator at dinner for teo hours gets us through
Used to have one 12 v battery and the first night by 3 am nothing worked. Generators not permitted at thst hour so we added blankets. If your battery is too low you have no furnace either
In Maine in June we still use the furnace as it gets close to freezing at times
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Old 02-26-2022, 06:56 AM   #8
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Anyone know how much weight the 190 w solar panel adds to your trailer?
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Old 02-26-2022, 10:13 AM   #9
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Maybe the equivalent of 4-5 gallons of water.
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Old 02-26-2022, 10:41 AM   #10
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Anyone know how much weight the 190 w solar panel adds to your trailer?
190 w go power panel, easily found on web,
Weight26.4 lbs / 12 kg
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Old 03-12-2022, 01:41 PM   #11
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We installed 2x100amp LiFePo Battleborn batteries, 2 x 200 Watt 24 volt Rich panels, Victron Smart solar MPPT 100v 30 amp controller, Victron BMV-712 battery monitor. I have a NorCold 12VDc/110ac refrigerator on my Jayco 264BH. I went on a 3-month xcountry trip last summer. In So California I went 7 days off the grid and the seventh day I ran out of battery at 5.am but was leaving that morning. No other issues all summer. Average 3 days or so in most campgrounds. Parked my camper in the best place for sun. I did charge it when driving and at electric hook ups. I was impressed with the solar output getting the LiFePo charged up.
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Old 03-12-2022, 02:35 PM   #12
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We don’t do much boondocking, but I’m also looking at 12V fridge as an option. I’m on my 3 rig with LP fridge, and I’m sick of them. The issue with 12V compressor fridge is even if your not a boondocker, and you want to start the fridge a night or 2 before a trip, without shore power, I don’t think 12V fridge would be practical without a good power bank.

On the flip side for solar I have installed 4-50W sun power flex panels on my roof, without drilling, and they are extremely light! I only use them if necessary with my portable solar generator.



IMO, This topic needs real world studies, not just calculations.
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Old 03-13-2022, 09:28 AM   #13
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I have a Norcold N10DC spec says 8.3 and 6.2 night mode. I have 400w solar and 2 6v batteries( going to lithium soon). refer never kicks off but depending how much I use the tv the night before my inverter will be complaining when I wake up or just after. The batteries get a little charge when I turn on the Generator to run the coffee pot but will catch up pretty soon there after.
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Old 03-13-2022, 09:52 AM   #14
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If you have a JayFeather Micro with the 190w standard panel you will need to add potentially 2 more 200w panels. Each 190-210 panel is about 24-26lbs and about the same dimensions.

Save some money and add panels from either Rich Solar or Newpowa, they are half the price and same quality as GoPower. GoPower is seriously over priced for their panels for what they are!

You can keep the GoPower PWM charge controller if you want however I would highly recommend putting in a MPPT one. The new GoPower 30 model (will do 600w) or a Victron 100/30 (limited to 400w) (or get a 100/50 if you have all three panels) will work. The MPPT is much more efficient in cloudy weather as well as with bad "tilt" i.e. laying flat on the roof. This will help recharge the batteries.

Go LiFePo4 on the batteries and at least 2 100ah or even two 200ah. If you live in a location where it freezes on a regular basis you will need to spend more on batteries that have low temp cutoff. Battleborn, Lion Energy, Enduro Power etc are all great companies for these. (Costco currently has the Lion special going 2 for $1300)

I have not installed it yet as I am collecting parts right now. Just waiting on the battery at this point. But will be using the Thule rack that is on my roof to mount the additional 2 panels to using the exiting cross bars and two more that I am fabricating. No drilling/screwing into my roof and all easily removable if needed.

At the end of the day its not cheap and is an investment, but if done right you have no need for a generator and less fuel and quiet! With the exception of AC or Microwave everything in our trailer is 12v or propane. We can run our furnace, generator, and cook on a single 30lb tank for at least 1 week, but closer to two. That is in low 30 deg weather at night.
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Old 03-18-2022, 07:17 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnynorthland View Post
IMO, This topic needs real world studies, not just calculations.
Exactly! That's why the original post asked for what people are actually experiencing (especially those making it work) not calculations.

If I've learned anything about RVing, it's that actual experience goes a lot further than theory.
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Old 03-18-2022, 07:21 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Sleighman View Post
Exactly! That's why the original post asked for what people are actually experiencing (especially those making it work) not calculations.

If I've learned anything about RVing, it's that actual experience goes a lot further than theory.
A real world study involves having all components save one controlled.. That means same fridge same electrical load, same solar conditions same temperature.

Good luck wtih that. You asked for anectdotes and you got what you asked for. None of us camp in identical environments.

Solar won't work for us period without carrying a 150 foot fold out antenna to clear the forest canopy. I would like to do it at home too. The estimates for tree removal are close to six figures.
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Old 03-18-2022, 09:33 AM   #17
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Here is a video from Josh the RV Nerd on 12V compressor frig. There is a few things he states that I do not like. But there is some data that he references.

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Old 03-28-2022, 04:09 PM   #18
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Our Real World Test results

We had been back and forth about a 12V fridge or propane, and we settled on a 12V for the convenience, and space. I too wanted to know how this 12V fridge do without shore power. Here are the results of our Real World Tests. Tried to include all the data points that I usually see influencing how well things function as well as keep this as controlled as possible and simulate how we would dry camp. Hope this gives some insight as to how the 12V fridge impacts the battery and ability to dry camp.


Real world test Info
• 2022 Jayco Feather Micro 166FBS with 12V 8cft Fridge
• Dealer provided battery – Deka Heavy Duty Deep Cycle Marine Master DC27
• 190W Solar panel installed from factor
• In Freezer, one fancy drink round ice ball tray
• In Fridge, one can of club soda



Summary: Battery and fridge performed great and feel we could dry camp for several days, as long as we are mindful of our power usage after sunset. We would be selective as to what we turned on and for how long. We could conserve power by using battery powered flashlights, power packs for our phones in the evening, and watch a movie on our laptop (if we really want to watch something).

During the day, I feel there is no issue watching TV, playing music, charging phones or using lighting.

Fridge cycle time might even be less if the fridge/freezer was loaded with food, but at least I know how it works with very little in it.

With two batteries, we should be able to keep more things on at night. However, at this point, knowing we would dry camp for one/two days at most, I see no reason to spend the money on more batteries.




Below are all the data points and readings:

10am Saturday morning – 68 degrees
• Plugged in shore power, turned fridge on dial section 4 to cool fridge down.

12:30pm Saturday - Full Sun – 74 degrees - 14.7 V on monitor in camper
• Unplugged shore power
• Set fridge to Off Grid power (lowest setting possible)

1:45pm – 2:43pm – Saturday –Full/partial sun - 77-74 degrees -–(voltage varied 14.7 – 12.7 – 14.7)
• Opened Fridge and Freezer three times to see how Ice ball and club soda is doing – all good
• Setup Roku on TV
• Watching TV
• Clouds rolled in for 20 minutes
• Fridge went through its power cycle

5:30pm – Saturday - Full Sun – 72 degrees - 13.8V
• Opened fridge and Freezer – all good

7:40pm – Saturday Dusk – 58 degrees - 12.6.V
• Opened fridge and Freezer – all good
• Turned on lights for 5 minutes

10:15pm – 10:45 – Saturday Night – 51 degrees - 12.5V (steady during entire time)
• Opened fridge and Freezer – all good
• Awning lights on for 5 minutes
• All living room lights on for 5 minutes
• Only lights over bed and couch on for 20 minutes

3:43am Sunday - Dark – 37 degrees - 12.3V - 12.6V
• Fridge was cycling when I woke up and we were at 12.3V. After cycle stopped jumped up to 12.6V

8:20am - Sunday – Cloudy - 36 degrees - 12.8V
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good
• All living room lights on for 5 minutes

11:15am Sunday – Cloudy - 51 degrees - 12.8V
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good
• All living room lights on for 5 minutes

2:33pm Sunday – Partly Sunny 65 degrees – 13.1V
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good
• All living room lights on for 5 minutes

3:12pm Sunday – Sunny - 67 degrees – 14.1V
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good

5:55pm Sunday – Sunny - 70 degrees – 14.3V
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good

7:22pm - Sunday – Dusk– 56 degrees - 12.8V
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good
• All living room lights on for 5 minutes

9:40pm - Sunday Night – 50 degrees - 12.8V
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good
• All living room lights on for 5 minutes

720am - Monday – Cloudy – 50 degrees - 12.2V (Fridge was cycling at time of reading)
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good


8:05am - Monday – Cloudy 54 degrees- 12.8V
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good

10:30am – Monday – Cloudy – 71-73 degrees - 12.9V – 13.0V
• One overhead light on for 10 minutes
• TV on with radio playing
• Opened Fridge and Freezer two times – all good


11:43a – Fridge started cycle TV/Radio on – voltage dropped to 12.7 [wanted to track a full fridge power cycle]
11:46am - 12.5V
11:57am - 12.4V (orange light is on, indicating 3rd battery icon on power console)
12:07pm - 12.4V (orange light still on)
12:18pm - 12.3V(orange light still on)
12:19pm – Fridge cycle ended voltage increased to 12.5V immediately
12:30m – 12.7V (orange light is off and green light is on indicating 2nd battery icon)
12:42pm – Turned TV off 13.0V

2:20pm – Monday – Full Sun – 76 degrees - 14.1V
• Opened Fridge and Freezer – all good

End of Real World Test
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Old 03-28-2022, 05:29 PM   #19
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Any trees?

My world is full of trees and rain.. The solar panels did nothing over four overcast days. And the temps were lower so the furnace ran more.

Where you are matters. I do appreciate your thorough notes.
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Old 03-28-2022, 06:38 PM   #20
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Nice tests, thanks for posting this. I copied it and will save it. Thanks again.
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