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Old 09-27-2013, 12:56 PM   #1
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How do I disconnect/cap off outside shower for Winter camping?

HI,
My son is going to have to live in my Whitehawk in Western Wa this Winter. He is taking a new position at work and needs an address in Seattle area before he can sell his house in Ellensburg. My Whitehawk has the Glacier package. I have informed him to use the furnace supplemented by a small electric space heater and to disconnect the city water supply if it is going to freeze. One thing I was told by the dealer is to disconnect and cap off the outside shower faucet. I don't see any access panel to get into the outside shower plumbing. It looks like it is behind the toilet, but the paneling is all stapled in place.

Do I need to worry about the faucet? Or should I just stuff the shower faucet box with insulation?

Thanks, Randy
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Old 09-27-2013, 01:41 PM   #2
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Can you unscrew the hose on the outside to clear any water past the faucet and then stuff with insulation?

Just a thought.

Doug
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:24 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougtoms01 View Post
Can you unscrew the hose on the outside to clear any water past the faucet and then stuff with insulation?

Just a thought.

Doug
Brilliant minds think alike. We hardly ever use our outside shower. The supply to the it was easy to reach, and I installed ball valves so I could leave the supply and faucet to the outside shower dry, but leave the rest of the plumbing wet.

I also had the idea to stuff the outside shower faucet hatch with fiberglass batting; it worked well, but I found out that the door to the shower is not watertight enough to keep the fiberglass dry. Then I had mold and a mess (until i cleaned it up).
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:48 PM   #4
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Brilliant minds think alike. We hardly ever use our outside shower. The supply to the it was easy to reach, and I installed ball valves so I could leave the supply and faucet to the outside shower dry, but leave the rest of the plumbing wet.

I also had the idea to stuff the outside shower faucet hatch with fiberglass batting; it worked well, but I found out that the door to the shower is not watertight enough to keep the fiberglass dry. Then I had mold and a mess (until i cleaned it up).
Good information RVHiker,
Sometimes you miss the fine points.
Sounds like if the OP goes this route, taking steps to seal the door may be a simple answer.
Maybe some heavy duty packaging tape or something easily removed later.

Doug
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:40 AM   #5
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I like the idea of installing ball valves to isolate the outside shower faucet. How did you access the plumbing to the faucet? I think I may need to pull the staples in the paneling behind the toilet to access this plumbing. I was reluctant to start pulling staples but maybe it's not a big deal.

Thanks, Randy



Quote:
Originally Posted by RVhiker View Post
Brilliant minds think alike. We hardly ever use our outside shower. The supply to the it was easy to reach, and I installed ball valves so I could leave the supply and faucet to the outside shower dry, but leave the rest of the plumbing wet.

I also had the idea to stuff the outside shower faucet hatch with fiberglass batting; it worked well, but I found out that the door to the shower is not watertight enough to keep the fiberglass dry. Then I had mold and a mess (until i cleaned it up).
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:06 AM   #6
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... How did you access the plumbing to the faucet? ...
I'm thinking that our trailers may be arranged differently. On my fifth wheel, the shower plumbing could be easily accessed from within the fifth wheel in the rear of the cabinet that the bath sink is located in. Is the the underside of your trailer covered in coroplast (the corrugated plastic stuff)? If not, you might look underneath your trailer to see if you can find access. You could e-mail Jayco and ask for a drawing of the plumbing supply to the outside shower; they usually reply quickly with the requested information.

I bought the 1/2" PEX ball valves at Home Depot. The handles on the valves were a bit long; I cut them off a bit of them with hacksaw. Obviously you'd need PEX tools to install the valves, unless you can figure out a way to use Sharkbite fittings.
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