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Old 09-09-2010, 07:19 AM   #11
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Good point on the CSA, I will follow up with the insurance. I found one dealer in the US that will order the Jayco with the Canadian Standards and one that says they can't so I am not sure what to believe. I have e-mailed Jayco to find out. Like you mentioned the pop ups with the bathroom are almost as heavy as the 17Z so that is why we ruled them out.

A TV that is designed to pull 5,000lbs should have no problem pulling 3,500lbs assuming it setup properly. Otherwise all the f150's around would be useless.

The main thing I am worried about is sway, the RAV is a short wheelbase and put a trailer on that you get sway on the highway if you are not setup properly. Are there any good hitch setups that you can recommend?
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Old 09-09-2010, 08:22 AM   #12
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I went with the Equal-i-zer hitch. It is weight distribution and 4 point sway control all in one. Bought it through RV wholesalers.com for about $450 delivered to my house. Easy to setup although on the 17Z I had to buy some shorter bolts to use where it attached to the frame of the trailer. Installation took about 1 1/2 hours. You do need a thin walled socket to attached the ball to the tow bar. Equalizer will sell you one for $70, luckily the maintenance guys at work had one. I think any RV dealer or UHAUL would install the ball part for a small fee (much less that $70 for a socket you'll only use once). I felt little to no sway when pulling the 17Z with the jeep commander. Hensley also makes a "no sway" hitch but its something like $1500.00. If you're in Canada I read alot of material by a guy named Andy Thompson, owner of the Can-Am RV Centre in London ON. If you google his name you'll find a bunch of articles he writes for an RV magazine, I can't remember the name. His dealership sells trailers and specializes in setting up tv's. He tows all kinds of trailers with many different vehicles, including a large airstream pulled by a PT Cruiser (the video of this is also on the Hensley hitch website) which is a bit over the top but the basics of what he says make sense. Might be worth a google search or drive over if you're not too far from London.
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:18 PM   #13
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Hi - I have a 2010 17Z and would not recommend towing it with a RAV. The RAV does not appear to be equipt to tow a trailer that is +18ft long, 9.5 ft tall, and realistically weighs +3300lbs. You'll regret it when faced with a 30 mph side-wind or even mild rolling hills. Agree with the comments on Equalizer WDH and Prodigy controller - great products!
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Old 09-09-2010, 05:44 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by rip-cord View Post

A TV that is designed to pull 5,000lbs should have no problem pulling 3,500lbs assuming it setup properly. Otherwise all the f150's around would be useless.
Your compairing a Rav4 to a F150-- Older F150's one...maybe--- new ones would pull 2 of them. I personally don't see the comparison.

RAV4-- specs
Tow Prep Package (V6 models only) [4] with 3500-lb. towing capacity -- includes upgraded radiator, fan coupling and alternator
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:02 PM   #15
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Also:
To get off the tow capacity for a second and think GVWR
Weights and Capacities RAV4-- from Toyota's own web site
Curb weight (lb.) 3360
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) (lbs.) /with third-row seats 4430/4730

That hardly screams tow vehicle-- 3360 is your TV empty-- add your 500 of hitch weight and hitch-- lets say 500lbs-- leaves you with 500lbs for passengers and cargo-- I know we haul more then that inside our tow vehicle while on vacation. I weigh 230lbs-- wife weighs 130-- my two dogs together weigh 160lbs-- my son weighs 40lbs-- that's just us-- throw in a cooler and some toys for the boy-- blankets for the dogs to lay on-- and that easily exceeds the GVWR.

That's why I dont see the comparison between a RAV4 and a HALF TON RATED TRUCK. I just wanted to show you the numbers.

Either way Good Luck--
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:14 PM   #16
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I would love to get a new tv but right now the budget won't allow for both and I would rather have the trailer. The GVWR as stated is right at the max for the Rav but I will be getting a weight distribution hitch and trans cooler for sure. We won't be climbing any mountains with it but I want to make sure it is safe until we can get a larger tv. I am mechanically inclined so I could put on the bigger shocks if needed.

Thanks for the feedback, we like the 17Z for the same reasons I don't like climbing over a table to get into bed at night.

Any dealers in upstate NY that you would recommend?

Darryl & Jenn
We bought our 2,011, 17C At Albany RV One in New York. We think we got a good price. We got the Customer Care Package, the oven and a transmission cooler, sway bar, weight dist. hitch, brake controller installed and a few other things thrown in "free", including the spare tire and cover. Don't pay any attention to their list price - it is thousands over what you can pay. People here on this site advised me that you should get at least 20 percent off the list price and maybe more. Also, we tried bargaining for the 17Z at Camper's Barn in Kingston, NY and they wanted $14,500 for a leftover 2,010, with the same options we asked for on the C., incl. tranny cooler and brake controller installed in our vehicle. We went home and thought about it, but we did not try to bargain any further because we decided we did not want the 17Z. CB in Kingston had no 17Cs on the lot so I looked online at Albany RV One. We wound up bargaining by phone and bought it. There are only two of us so the C was the better trailer, in our case. We probably will only open one bed and we liked that the dinette area opened into a bigger bed than the Z where the dinette area had the two smaller beds. That way when we arrive late and tired at a campground we won't even open either end, we will sleep on the converted dinette bed until the next morning. Since you have kids, the Z is the better option, but it is a bit longer than the C and I know my tow vehicle, an SUV, Nissan Xterra can only pull a trailer up to 18 ft. safely. How long a trailer does your manual say you can pull?
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:54 PM   #17
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Rip-Cord, I might be wrong, but with the $ a .96 US your savings might not be as much as you think by the time you pay the import tax, registration, etc. etc...Although a lot of folks brought over new cars/trucks from the US when our dollar was at $1.10, that seems to have stopped lately. Now, I've known folks who've been posted/lived in the US for a few years who've bought trailers and managed to sneak past the import taxes, but I'm not sure you'll be able to.

I'm no expert - certainly haven't looked into doing this myself, but a visit to your local CBSA folks might be an idea.
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Old 09-11-2010, 09:36 AM   #18
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The problem with the pop up is the lack of bathroom. For us that is the reason to upgrade to a trailer from a tent. So it sounds like this will be to much trailer for our tv to be able to pull. According to Jayco the unloaded vechile weight is basicly 3,000 lbs so that is 86% right there.
there are pop ups with bathrooms I don't know the towing weight of them
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:38 AM   #19
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Yeah, but you can't stop along your journey and use those pop-up bathrooms! Nor can you access your refrigerator or dining table, etc. Been there, done that and moved up to a tt.
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:59 AM   #20
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That's true, that's part of the reason we moved up. That and the fact that you can't just pull over and "super night camp" (that's what we call it when you just pull off somewhere and catch some ZZZ's without checking into a campsite) with a hybrid. Can you? I don't know. It would surely make you look as if you were camping.
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