Inverter and Solar Controller

[jrobb911]

Still looking for recommendations for a 22RB to run the microwave and TV and small fridge in outdoor kitchen (not all at the same time). Being fed by 400W solar. Looking at maybe the Renogy 2000w inverter and 40Amp Rover controller. I have 2 100ah lithium batteries.
Planning on just plugging in the shore power plug into the inverter when needed, since we mainly dry camp.
Thanks

[Puddle Pirate]

Originally Posted by jrobb911

Still looking for recommendations for a 22RB to run the microwave and TV and small fridge in outdoor kitchen (not all at the same time). Being fed by 400W solar. Looking at maybe the Renogy 2000w inverter and 40Amp Rover controller. I have 2 100ah lithium batteries.
Planning on just plugging in the shore power plug into the inverter when needed, since we mainly dry camp.
Thanks

That would do it-----

[RichCarter]

Originally Posted by jrobb911

...Planning on just plugging in the shore power plug into the inverter when needed, since we mainly dry camp.
Thanks

You can do this but be careful with what you run off the inverter. I assume that you'll connect your inverter to your RV battery. Make sure that the power converter is turned off, otherwise you'll be running your charger off the same battery your inverter is using. This is a bad idea. You can turn off the converter breaker to do this but don't forget to turn it back on when you're done. Also, make sure your AC load has unnecessary stuff turned off, like your water heater and refrigerator. Run them off propane.
A better way to do this is to get yourself an inverter that has an internal battery charger and swap it out where the RV converter is wired. This avoids the whole problem of charging off the same battery the inverter is using.

[jrobb911]

Thanks, I figured I would need to disconnect the charger portion of the inverter so im not charging the batteries that I am currently using. I am using lithium and the inverter/load center that is installed in my unit doesn't support lithium anyway. I think I would likely leave in disconnected unless I was plugged into real shore power since the batteries would be charged via solar. We mainly dry camp. I didn't really understand what you meant on getting a different inverter with an internal battery charger.
On a different question. The trailer comes with a cheap lead acid battery. I figured leaving it installed and install a two battery switch. When we are driving to site the truck would charge the stock battery and we would use it to do the slide, etc. The solar would be charging the lithiums on the way too. Then swap over to the lithium batteries for camping. If I killed the lithiums overnight, I turn the switch to the stock battery for backup of 12v systems. I wouldn't have the 2000w inverter connected to the stock battery ever. What do you think?

[Puddle Pirate]

Originally Posted by jrobb911

Thanks, I figured I would need to disconnect the charger portion of the inverter so im not charging the batteries that I am currently using. I am using lithium and the inverter/load center that is installed in my unit doesn't support lithium anyway. I think I would likely leave in disconnected unless I was plugged into real shore power since the batteries would be charged via solar. We mainly dry camp. I didn't really understand what you meant on getting a different inverter with an internal battery charger.
On a different question. The trailer comes with a cheap lead acid battery. I figured leaving it installed and install a two battery switch. When we are driving to site the truck would charge the stock battery and we would use it to do the slide, etc. The solar would be charging the lithiums on the way too. Then swap over to the lithium batteries for camping. If I killed the lithiums overnight, I turn the switch to the stock battery for backup of 12v systems. I wouldn't have the 2000w inverter connected to the stock battery ever. What do you think?

On the driving and charging part this is what i use to charge my lithium's, Its a Sterling Battery to Battery charger--when hooked up and the engine is running its charging my battery bank it works great, they make a 30 amp and a 60 amp unit, best price is at Battle-Born i have had it for 2 yrs now--so when you are driving 8 hrs its charging along with your solar unit--the sterling is programable for all types of Batterys. Its the unit with the red lower panel, the hook up or plug i use to connect the tow vehicle to the 5th wheel is like a welding connect real easy to use. Heres a picture of it.

[Puddle Pirate]

Originally Posted by jrobb911

Thanks, I figured I would need to disconnect the charger portion of the inverter so im not charging the batteries that I am currently using. I am using lithium and the inverter/load center that is installed in my unit doesn't support lithium anyway. I think I would likely leave in disconnected unless I was plugged into real shore power since the batteries would be charged via solar. We mainly dry camp. I didn't really understand what you meant on getting a different inverter with an internal battery charger.
On a different question. The trailer comes with a cheap lead acid battery. I figured leaving it installed and install a two battery switch. When we are driving to site the truck would charge the stock battery and we would use it to do the slide, etc. The solar would be charging the lithiums on the way too. Then swap over to the lithium batteries for camping. If I killed the lithiums overnight, I turn the switch to the stock battery for backup of 12v systems. I wouldn't have the 2000w inverter connected to the stock battery ever. What do you think?

On your load center they do make a charger swap out unit , that is make for Lithium Battery's, 5 wire swap out, works great when plugged into shore power, or generator, again best price at the time was at Battle-born- took me about 10 mins to pull the old one out and put the new one in--

[Puddle Pirate]

On having 2 different Batterys, I would not do that---one or the other

[Puddle Pirate]

On the point the other person made about inverter with an internal battery charger, they are more common every day now, and what it does is it when u r hooked up to shore power, it stops inverting ( because u r hooked up to shore power)and starts charging your battery Bank back up to were it should be ( and passing threw the shore power that u r hooked up to ), if you should loose shore power, lets say a power outage, it will switch back to inverter use, and in most case's u will not see it happen, its that fast-- in my case with the house charging unit I swaped out, it is always maintaining my battery bank when hooked up to shore power, of course it is working when hooked up to a generator also, and working seamlessly with my solar panels they play well together ,when the shore power stops working my invertor kicks in, and supply's the camper with the necessary 120 that I need.

[Puddle Pirate]

Originally Posted by jrobb911

Still looking for recommendations for a 22RB to run the microwave and TV and small fridge in outdoor kitchen (not all at the same time). Being fed by 400W solar. Looking at maybe the Renogy 2000w inverter and 40Amp Rover controller. I have 2 100ah lithium batteries.
Planning on just plugging in the shore power plug into the inverter when needed, since we mainly dry camp.
Thanks

On your load, using the micro - wave, most micro-waves will use about 12-15 amps at 120, if u use basic conversion to 120v from 12v your amp draw maybe as much 120 amps to 150 during the use period for the micro-wave for lets say for 10 mins, a 1000 watt inverter is capable of doing that. Also during daylight your system at best can provide up to 20 amps of charge for your battery's on the best day, most of the time it maybe less than that, that part can also offset your amp usage lets say when using the micro-wave as an example.

[jrobb911]

I planned on keeping to two banks separate via the switch. Keeping the stock battery just for backup since it's already installed. There is a solar controller from Go Power that will charge bank 1 first then move to bank 2 if 1 is full. I am considering it but I'm not sure if I have to install it in the recommended location under the sticker on wall or in the storage compartment. If I have to put it in the wall to make the connection between the roof access and the battery box, i would have to run a second pair of cables from the controller to bank 2. Which might be a pain. It has bluetooth so it doesn't matter where its installed.
Anyone know if the cable from the roof access to the battery box is continuous behind the GOPOWER sticker on the wall? Or did they cut the cable requiring someone to splice the wires together or install the controller there?

[Puddle Pirate]

Originally Posted by jrobb911

I planned on keeping to two banks separate via the switch. Keeping the stock battery just for backup since it's already installed. There is a solar controller from Go Power that will charge bank 1 first then move to bank 2 if 1 is full. I am considering it but I'm not sure if I have to install it in the recommended location under the sticker on wall or in the storage compartment. If I have to put it in the wall to make the connection between the roof access and the battery box, i would have to run a second pair of cables from the controller to bank 2. Which might be a pain. It has bluetooth so it doesn't matter where its installed.
Anyone know if the cable from the roof access to the battery box is continuous behind the GOPOWER sticker on the wall? Or did they cut the cable requiring someone to splice the wires together or install the controller there?

The ones that I have seen are continuous , not cut half way, you have hook it up to the controller, and battery's

[jrobb911]

I finally received my 22RB and been working on the solar. Two panels on the roof of 210w each. 40amp MPPT controller, battery monitor in the default gopower wall location, and inverter plug in for my shore power cable. Just waiting for the 2000w inverter to finish it off. The plug is my version of an auto switch. We usually dry camp so essentially I just plug the shore power cord into myself and turn on the inverter when needed with a remote switch inside. All powered by two 100am lithium. Camped in the front yard running the heater and lights and stuff which pulled the batteries down to 83% in the morning. Charged back up quick.
The two battery switch allows me to use the stock battery if needed which actually can be charged using the converter, if I leave the breaker on, when running off the lithium, charged by solar.

[Izhak]

Originally Posted by jrobb911

I finally received my 22RB and been working on the solar. Two panels on the roof of 210w each. 40amp MPPT controller, battery monitor in the default gopower wall location, and inverter plug in for my shore power cable. Just waiting for the 2000w inverter to finish it off. The plug is my version of an auto switch. We usually dry camp so essentially I just plug the shore power cord into myself and turn on the inverter when needed with a remote switch inside. All powered by two 100am lithium. Camped in the front yard running the heater and lights and stuff which pulled the batteries down to 83% in the morning. Charged back up quick.
The two battery switch allows me to use the stock battery if needed which actually can be charged using the converter, if I leave the breaker on, when running off the lithium, charged by solar.

Can you please tell me where to find the place on the wall to place my solar controller on 22RB?
Thank you

[jrobb911]

The sticker should be on the bathroom wall as you Walk in the trailer. It’s the intended location for the PWM controller from gopower only. I don’t k ow of any MPPT controllers that are flush mounted that would go there. If you intend to use something else. Install if near the cut off switch in the storage area. The wires from the roof are not continuous and are cut behind the sticker requiring you to hook them up to a controller or butt spliced. They are 10guage. I would remove the wall panel and connect them without cutting a whole if done again.

[jrobb911]

If you sticker is missing. It’s about eye 5.5 feet up and centered or directly under the port on the roof.

[EJH]

Originally Posted by Puddle Pirate

On your load, using the micro - wave, most micro-waves will use about 12-15 amps at 120, if u use basic conversion to 120v from 12v your amp draw maybe as much 120 amps to 150 during the use period for the micro-wave for lets say for 10 mins, a 1000 watt inverter is capable of doing that.

This is wrong, sorry to be blunt.

Wattage = Voltage x Amps

A 1,000W inverter providing power at 120V can source up to approx 8A.

You want a 2,000W inverter for the microwave. You cold get lucky with a very small microwave that *may* work off a 1,000W inverter, but probably not.

[RichCarter]

Originally Posted by EJH

This is wrong, sorry to be blunt.

Wattage = Voltage x Amps

A 1,000W inverter providing power at 120V can source up to approx 8A.

You want a 2,000W inverter for the microwave. You cold get lucky with a very small microwave that *may* work off a 1,000W inverter, but probably not.

Time for some real world numbers.
I’ve been mostly off-grid for over 30 years. I’m on my 3rd set of solar panels, 3 50W panels. I run microwave, TV, Lights, etc. Solar panels are nice but they are only a small contributor to my power needs. I have a current meter on the regular so I know what the panels provide. One would think that a 150W bank of panels would provide 10A of charge current, not even close. I see maybe 4A on a sunny day. The manufacturers play games with their numbers much like the car manufacturers used to do with they HP numbers. The panels must be clean, the sun directly overhead, clear skies, and the batteries must charge to an odd voltage, maybe 20v.
I used to run my 800W microwave from a 1kw inverter. It worked but it took longer to cook stuff. I put in a new 2kw inverter and it works better, not quite as well as off my generator. The inverters put out a modified sine wave, not a pure sine wave.