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Old 10-25-2022, 07:15 AM   #1
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Jay Feather Micro Question

I have had the pleasure of dropping the plastic bottom of our 2022 166FBS a few times now. I have never seen any insulation bats, just the plastic and the silver reflective material. In watching a few YouTube videos it hit me that some of theirs (not necessarily 166's but still Jay Feather Micros) had insulation bats. With our trailers having the climate package shouldn't those be in there?

Anyone else who has looked at theirs does it have the insulation bats?

I am wondering if I should add some in and if so what type of insulation is it?

Thanks in advance for the input!
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Old 10-25-2022, 09:07 PM   #2
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Do you have tank heaters?
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Old 10-26-2022, 07:44 AM   #3
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Yes I do have the tank heaters.
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Old 10-26-2022, 10:11 AM   #4
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Tom, it sounds like my trailer is almost identical to yours. I haven't yet removed the underbelly cover but will be doing that in the near future. Just returned from a trip during which I experienced the infamous fresh water tank attachment failure. The tank was about half full. I caught it in time to prevent a complete fallout and managed to get the tank drained allowing the under belly to support the tank (empty) for the rest of the trip.


After talking to dealers I have decided to do the repair myself. If you have any photos from your previous underbelly removal projects I would greatly appreciate it.
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Old 10-26-2022, 05:28 PM   #5
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Here are the few pictures that I have. I have not ever fully dropped the bottom as I didn't want to redo the spray foam around the various items it is on. But you can get a good idea of whats under there. The white tank is the fresh water tank. Both the "black" and "grey" tanks are black with the middle tank being the grey tank. But all the wires are just hanging there. I do want to go back through and tie those up. But this is how I ran my solar wires for the 120v to/from the power center. Was easy!

By the way what happened to your tank and is it screwed on or how is it connected or do you not know yet?
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Passenger Front.jpg   Driver Front.jpg   Back Under the black tank.jpg  
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Old 10-26-2022, 06:00 PM   #6
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Thanks for the reply Tom.



I don't yet know the details of the failure. I first noticed that my water pump kept running and the tank sensor showed completely full. I knew the tank wasn't empty or completely full. After thinking about it I remembered the threads about fresh water tank failures on some Jaycos. I crawled under the trailer and noticed a significant bulge in the liner.



The tank had dropped enough that the low point drain did nothing. I didn't want to continue driving (1300 miles) with water in the tank. I was able to use my truck jack and a 2 step ladder (to spread the load) to jack up the tank enough to drain it.


I talked to several dealers today and just decided to fix it myself. I have always done my own work on all my vehicles and I'm pretty good at it although it has gotten to be more of a challenge with age.
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Old 10-26-2022, 08:18 PM   #7
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snip..... just decided to fix it myself.....snip
If you get the opportunity, could you post a couple before/after pics of your fix?

Thanks in advance,

Bob
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Old 10-26-2022, 09:13 PM   #8
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Tom, I've never dropped any of my underbelly, is it difficult? Can you tell me which side/end the tank sensors are on? I'm planning to do a seelevel II gauge, and the easiest way is to use the existing wires; if I know what side to bring down I won't have to do both if I guess wrong.
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Old 10-26-2022, 09:48 PM   #9
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There are screws on both ends of the trailer and on the rear you also need to take off the sewer hose holder. The plastic is stiff but it will bend and come down. Just be careful not to make it split. Most of the edges, on mine, are just tucked in the side railed of the frame.

I believe the sensors are in the middle of the tanks. I didn’t see them but could see the wires.

As for the wires you might be better to run new. From what I have seen it might be really easy to pull new wires up under the kitchen side. There are already a couple holes there. Just take both drawers out from under the stove and you can see them by the pump. I believe you can get to the control panel area. Or possibly through the ceiling by taking a couple of the lights off.
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Old 10-26-2022, 10:00 PM   #10
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Thanks. I knew the sides were tucked up, but didn't know if there was something holding them there.

This will be my second SeeLevel II install, and there is nothing easier than using existing wires (which Garnet recommends, I might add). The exception would be if those wires are not accessible. You actually only need to find one wire going from one tank to the control center and use that. The sensors are paralleled, so you gang them all together and run one wire to the control. Other connection at the tanks is ground, and in the control wiring +12V and ground, so only three wires total at the control. A fourth wire would go to an LPG sensor, not really applicable for us.
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Old 11-01-2022, 06:29 PM   #11
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I opened my trailer today and indeed the fresh water tank attachment had failed.

There are four flat bars running fore and aft under the tank (normally) attached to two cross braces. When I opened the bottom one bar was completely detached laying on the coroplast. Two others were detached at one end. The outermost bar on the driver side was still attached.

It appears to me that the basic structure is adequate but the fasteners used are not. The support bars came loose due to failure of the self tapping screws used to attach them to the cross brace. The screws had sheared at the interface between the bar and cross brace. The screw heads were captured by the coroplast with the thread portion still in the cross brace.

I am replacing all the self tapping fasteners with 3/8 in bolts with nuts and lock washers after drilling the cross brace. The flat bars have holes big enough for 1/2 in bolts.

One photo shows the low point drain on the tank which is also where the water pump pulls from the tank through the long hose drooping down under the tank. It was installed exactly as show and was trapped between the water tank and coroplast. I will route it differently.
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One.jpg   Two.jpg   Three.jpg   Four.jpg   Six.jpg  

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Old 11-01-2022, 09:23 PM   #12
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Holy cow thats crazy! I believe ours are still all connected but will be checking this before our trip next week! You also have to love the wire scraps they leave down there and those grouped together and cut, assuming you didnt do that. :-)
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Old 11-02-2022, 12:43 AM   #13
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jmckelvy, does your trailer have tank heaters? If so it does not look like they are on the bottom, can you tell where they might be? I am wondering if I could fit some insulation in the dead space in the front of the trailer and under the tanks. Maybe run some angle aluminum slats on the outside of the plastic for extra support..
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Old 11-02-2022, 06:12 AM   #14
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Tom I do have the tank heater(s?). It's not visible in the attached photos. It is stuck to the bottom on the passenger side of the tank. It is merely a flat thin stick on device less than a foot wide and about 2 feet long. I'll get a photo later today. It was installed directly under one of the flat bars. I don't want the bar to rub through the outer skin of the heater so I am going to put some gorilla tape on it before installing the bar.

So far I have seen no insulating batts anywhere whatsoever. There was also a question about the location of the tank sensor wires. Mine are located on the side of the tank on the passenger side.

And no I didn't put the clipped wires there.
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Old 11-02-2022, 09:23 AM   #15
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Quote:
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snip........I am replacing all the self tapping fasteners with 3/8 in bolts with nuts and lock washers after drilling the cross brace. The flat bars have holes big enough for 1/2 in bolts.......
Solid fix...., and is what Jayco should have done in the first place

Bob
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Old 11-03-2022, 12:41 PM   #16
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Below are photos of the tank heater and the tank sensors for the fresh water tank. I've no idea if the gray and black sensors are on the same side as fresh.
I did get the fresh tank reinstalled with much stronger fastener hardware. That's as far as I got yesterday as rolling around under there so much seems to have aggravated my inner ear.
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Heater1.jpg   heater2.jpg   Sensor.jpg  
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Old 11-03-2022, 12:54 PM   #17
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Because the black and grey aren't flat, and slope to the middle left-right and towards the outlets front to back, the sensors are on the walls between the two tanks. Any replacement would have to go there as well, or wouldn't read accurately. After pulling down some of the rear corplast I decided against pursuing that. Fresh might have been easy, but grey is the one I wanted the most to know how full it actually is.
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Old 11-04-2022, 05:55 AM   #18
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@jmckelvy, I cant totally read that sticker, does it say what temp it gets up to? Also what do you feel/think about adding some bat type insulation under those tanks and the other open space? I am thinking I want to do that and then run some additional support of aluminum angle to help hold it in place... Thoughts?

@DonBr, do you think you would still be able to use those new tank sensors if you ran your own wire? Can you get to the end or side enough to stick on the sensor?
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Old 11-04-2022, 07:14 AM   #19
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The wiring is not a problem - each tank's 3 sensors join together into a single wire that goes directly to the inside panel, so any of those 3 color-coded wires would be easy to take over. The problem is that the sensor would really need to be on the only high (deep) point, which is immediately between the grey and black tanks. That would require extensive removal of the corplast to be able to get directly under that spot. I decided against that removal job.
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Old 11-04-2022, 07:42 AM   #20
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That does make sense, and why I have not removed that section as well. I have only dropped the back and front sections.
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