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Old 03-17-2014, 07:51 PM   #11
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Hi Mustang,

Thank you so much for the suggestions.
- I ordered Batt 1/2 switches
- Panels will be permanently 3M doubled sided taped.
- The closest i can put is about 5-6 feets away the vertical length. (other than that i'd have to mod the TT to switch the the tougue propane tanks against a new battery tray. the newer 2014 have that but heck I'm not going to change for that
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Old 03-21-2014, 06:20 PM   #12
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OK Mustang... Here goes nuthin!

I still have the 60 watt solar panel, but I also just purchased a 120 watt set up as well. I am not sure if I will be wiring them together or keeping them separate. They are folding kits with carrying cases. I could wore them with plugs... But that is a different story.

I have found a place that will sell me two lightly used 6 volt Trojan batteries for $50 a piece.

I am looking into buying a pure sine wave inverter as well.

Here is my question regarding your set up and how it "jives" with my idea.

If I pull the fuse out of my battery line going to the camper, then my battery is completely off line from the camper.

If I were to connect up either my 120 or 180 watt system to my Trojan battery bank, could I then connect up a 1000 watt AC inverter, and plug my campers shore power into the inverter? I would unplug my microwave and throw the breaker on my AC, but theoretically I could supply my entire campers electrical system through the battery bank.

I know that some people (I think that is what you did too) install special 120 outlets that are directly wired to the AC inverter. What would be the harm in just using the campers electrical system already in use?

I am a slow, but I am learning.

I realize that doing this would open up some parasite draw, but not much on my camper. My fridge and my water heater dont require AC/dc. My detectors would run off of battery no matter the power source.

X
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Old 03-22-2014, 08:36 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xkuzme1 View Post
OK Mustang... Here goes nuthin!

I still have the 60 watt solar panel, but I also just purchased a 120 watt set up as well. I am not sure if I will be wiring them together or keeping them separate. They are folding kits with carrying cases. I could wore them with plugs... But that is a different story.
Since all the panels are not the same wattage, I would recommend connecting them to their own Solar Charge controller and both charge controllers can be connected to the batteries with no issues. They will work together based on the batteries needs. This way if one is partially shaded, the other will continue producing and not be limited by the shaded panels.

I have found a place that will sell me two lightly used 6 volt Trojan batteries for $50 a piece.
What are the battery models/Ah?

I am looking into buying a pure sine wave inverter as well.
Based on what I know you should probably keep it at 1000 watts or less.

Here is my question regarding your set up and how it "jives" with my idea.

If I pull the fuse out of my battery line going to the camper, then my battery is completely off line from the camper.
True!

If I were to connect up either my 120 or 180 watt system to my Trojan battery bank, could I then connect up a 1000 watt AC inverter, and plug my campers shore power into the inverter?
Yes, that is how I wired my inverter so I do did not have to wire in new outlets. It works great! Look at my TT Solar album link below for a wiring diagram. I need to update the drawing with the 2 new breaker boxes.
I would unplug my microwave and throw the breaker on my AC, but theoretically I could supply my entire campers electrical system through the battery bank.
Yes, and you would only be limited to the power of your batteries


I know that some people (I think that is what you did too) install special 120 outlets that are directly wired to the AC inverter. What would be the harm in just using the campers electrical system already in use?

No, I wired my inverter's AC output (front storage compartment) to the shore power cable storage (rear storage compartment) and installed a 120VAC RV female outlet in a 4x4 electric box. See my album.

I am a slow, but I am learning.

I realize that doing this would open up some parasite draw, but not much on my camper. My fridge and my water heater dont require AC/dc. My detectors would run off of battery no matter the power source.

I would not worry about the draw of the Fride ckt board, or CO detector's ckt, or the radio's.

X
Hope I covered everything? Of course these are only my suggestions.
Sounds good to me. Have fun!!
Don
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2013 Jayco Eagle 284BHS
250Watt Grape Solar Panel, MorningStar MPPT 60 Charge Controller
1500 Watt Ramsond PSI, 2 Trojan T145 Batteries (260Ah)
2 - AirSight Wireless IP Cameras (used as rear view cameras)
EnGenius WI-FI extender, D-Link wireless (n) modem
MagicJack Internet Phone
2012 Ford F150XLT, EcoBoost w/3.73
157" Wheel base, HD Towing Package

Our Solar Album https://www.jaycoowners.com/album.php?albumid=329
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:30 AM   #14
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One more thing.
Before you invest your HARD EARNED $100 to buy those batteries, check them out:

- Open the caps and look at the water level, if it is close to the cells, odds are that the previous owner did not maintain them properly
- Look at the water is it cloudy
- Take a volt meter with you and check the voltage of the battery.. should be around 12.4 VDC min, if they kept it charged.. any lower may mean that they just had them sitting on the side with no charging.
- Check the date code on the batteries.. As a rule of thumb batteries hold a good charge for about 1000 cycles (easy way to look at a cycle is 1 cycle = 1 day) so that is about 3 years then they tend to lose some of their power.

Here is how to figure the date code on the Trojan batteries:
Positive Terminal- Manufacturing Date. This code indicates the actual date when mechanical assembly of the battery was completed. At this point, electrolyte has not been added to the battery and formation charging has not taken place. LETTER stands for the month and could be anything from A to L (A=January, B=February, C=March, and so on),; NUMBER stands for the date.
Negative Terminal- Shipping Date. This code indicates the month and year when the battery was shipped out of our factory. LETTER stands for the month (see below); NUMBER is the last digit of the year.

Example: A battery with "I26" stamped on the positive terminal and "J2" on the negative. "I26" means that the battery was assembled, without electrolyte, on September 26th. "J2" means that it was shipped from our factory around October of 2002.

There may not be a code on the Positive terminal and just one on the Negative terminal.

If you purchase them and you have the capability run them through an EQUALIZATION Stage (Equalization stage can produce voltages as high as 16 VDC, so do not do it with the camper electronics hooked up to them) This will remove any crystals that may have formed on the cells.
Don
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2013 Jayco Eagle 284BHS
250Watt Grape Solar Panel, MorningStar MPPT 60 Charge Controller
1500 Watt Ramsond PSI, 2 Trojan T145 Batteries (260Ah)
2 - AirSight Wireless IP Cameras (used as rear view cameras)
EnGenius WI-FI extender, D-Link wireless (n) modem
MagicJack Internet Phone
2012 Ford F150XLT, EcoBoost w/3.73
157" Wheel base, HD Towing Package

Our Solar Album https://www.jaycoowners.com/album.php?albumid=329
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:53 PM   #15
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Thanks mustang. Frosty beverage to you!

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