Just Bought This Solar Setup

[xkuzme1]

I am planning trip to Moab, UT this summer. I'm going to try to find a good BLM campground. They don't have electricity or water. Ive got a 2000 watt generator that I'll be running occasionally to run the AC and get the batteries charged. Between those time I thought that a 60 watt solar array would be enough for my needs.

I could have gone bigger, but size and weight was a big consideration. I didn't want to go smaller and I didn't feel like bigger would be worth the money given what I expect my needs will be.

I'll make sure to offer feedback as I learn about me setup.

X

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141199433020...84.m1497.l2649

[Mustang65]

I guess I have a few questions that need to be answered first. What do you expect to accomplish with 60 watts of solar power? Just charge batteries? Run an inverter off your batteries? Run a TV off your batteries? Do you have LED lights? If you have regular light bulbs in the RV, they will drain your battery(s) fast (as each bulb is about 1 amp). What size batteries (Ah) will you be charging.

60Watts of solar power is not really going to do much of anything for you. It will not get most batteries to a full charge (90%) each day, and that depends on how much they were drained from the prior night.

I know that they say 60 watts output, but figure about 1/2 to 3/4 of that figure, as the panels will not stay angled toward the sun for the entire 5 hours of good sunlight. Yu need to take into consideration the cloudy days (if any out there).

I guess we need a little more information

Welcome to SOLAR!!!
Don

[xkuzme1]

I will be using the panel just to supplement my charging between the times when I use the generator. At night I'm hoping to use a small fan to to run off of the Interstate group 24 battery. I'll watch maybe 1 hour of tv before bed (small under cabinet LCD 12 inch TV), run the antenna for that hour, charge phones and iPads, possibly run the furnace for 5-10 minutes out of every hour. I do have all LED lighting so that should help.

My plan is to run the generator in the morning (not too early but it is a 53db model) for an hour or so. Let the solar panel take over for a while until sometime in the afternoon, then run the generator for another hour while while I escape into the AC for a mid day break. Then once again let the solar panel take over.

During the day I don't imagine that I'd be draining too much, if any, from the battery. At roughly 80 amp hours, I estimate that almost half are usable. So from a 60 watt panel I figure that I could be getting roughly 2.4 amps per hour returned. At 2.4 amps per hour that 16.6 hours for a total recharge. Which I would agree that is not optimum, but used in conjunction with a generator that would be used roughly 2-3 hours a day I figured that a 60 watt panel would be sufficient.

That us how I came up with the idea of the 60 watt panel. This is my first attempt at a solar array. By all means, if my reasoning is flawed please educate me. The 100 watt was a good price too, but space and weight are at a premium in my camper.

X

[Mustang65]

Sorry, my post was intercepted my SYSTEM MAINTENANCE (9:51PM) so here it is again.

The solar panels will only be the equivalent of a FLOAT state at their 1 or 2 amp output. Throw in a iPhone charging, a few iPads, your CO alarm, Fridge electronics, radio's internal drain (while off) you are pretty much over the output of the panels. I just do not see enough output. You will need to keep the generator running for 2-3 hours minimum, to get a charge back into the battery. Another thing to remember is that motors (vent fans, heating system fans, any fans) and batteries are not good friends. They can drain your battery in no time at all.
I would recommend a second battery, but that would be 2 batteries needing a daily charge, and I do not see that happening. I would recommend that you use your TT's internal battery controller for charging your batteries, is should give you more output than the generator's 12VDC output, and it is a Smart system.

If you have the TT by your house, or near, set it up now and do a couple dry runs to work out any bugs you may encounter (this will give you an idea as to what it can or can not do). That is what I did. When I installed the SOLAR, did everything I would do while camping, and kept an eye on the battery voltage. Try it.
Just keep checking the battery voltage through out the night.
Good Luck, and keep us posted with how things are going.
Don

[joyeux]

Wow that's a neat set-up you got Mustang! I've been reading and reading and a bit like xKuzMee i'm also trying for the first time at a solar array. Since i don't want to start another thread, i'll excuse myself in advance for "jumping into this one".

What we usually do:
- Boondock 3 days / 2 nights for a family of 4.

What i'd like to do:use a 200w solar array to:
- Charge the TT battery when weather permits (we typically are ok without anything for a week-end (i.e we don't use the generator)
- Charge 2nd Deep cycle battery when i come back from our typical a,m. fishing "promenade" with the kids (we have an electric Minn Kota maxxum)
- Use an Inverter once in a while to power up the Ipod, Ipad, Iphone,, Ipaid stuffs... maybe TV + Nintendo Wii for an hour or so when weather's really nasty.

What i currently have:
- Single Trojan t-1275 150amp/h battery (darn Jayco x213 2013 battery rack, can't put 2x6v)
- Tracer MPPT 2210rn 20A controller
- 1000w continous true sine wave inverter
- Yamaha EF2000is that i'd like not to use (it's only for emergency)
- Kill a Watt measuring tool to see how much the AC stuff use
- a boat load of 10 awg gauge copper wire left from my shed project
- Most lights in RV are Led

what i plan to add/purchase:
- 2x100w 12v flexible panels = 200w (installed on the rear bunk slide out.)
- 2x10 feet of 1 gauge welding cable
- Trojan 27tmx to be bought for the minn kota trolling motor

The plan:
- install the 2 panels in parallel on the rear slide out (they are light and will be inside when the TT is stored, i don't want to drill anything on the roof)
- link the panels to the MPPT controller about 8 feet away (using the MC4 or whatever connectors to the MPPT)
- link the MPPT Controller to the Trojan t-1275 battery which is at the complete other end of the trailer on the tongue (25 feets or so) using the 10 AWG copper wire (grey outside wire)
- Link the Trojan t-1275 battery to the Inverter which I think will be about 6-8 feets away in the storage compartment using the #1 gauge battery wire
- Add one or two power outlets near the TV which is 10-15 feets away from the inverter outputs using the 10awg copper wire.
- add a bunch of inline fuse all along the way (30 amps + a 200 or 300 amps near the battery going to the inverter).

Questions:
Did I get this all wrong??

Comments:
It's a great idea to extend the inverter plug to the shore plug (much easier) but oupps we might just use the Micro wave or TV too long and gone goes the battery... kids..

[xkuzme1]

Just got my solar set up today. I have to admit, I was pretty happy with it. When I plugged it in, my volts on the battery was reading 12.3. Had a nice sunny day. 5 hours later it was at 13.4.

X

[joyeux]

Thanks for the update!!! can't wait for the darn snow to disappear....

May I ask how big is your battery?

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by joyeux

What we usually do:
- Boondock 3 days / 2 nights for a family of 4.
Not sure as to how much you will get out of your battery, since it is going to be used to power your boat.... 1/2 of your solar charging day is gone by noon.

What i'd like to do:use a 200w solar array to:
- Charge the TT battery when weather permits (we typically are ok without anything for a week-end (i.e we don't use the generator)
- Charge 2nd Deep cycle battery when i come back from our typical a,m. fishing "promenade" with the kids (we have an electric Minn Kota maxxum)
Are you going to hook the two batteries up in parallel. Not a good idea, as both batteries will not have an equal charge on them. You need to keep solar batteries as solar batteries and not used for anything else. You may want install a battery selector switch (Batt1 - Batt2 - off).

- Use an Inverter once in a while to power up the Ipod, Ipad, Iphone,, Ipaid stuffs... maybe TV + Nintendo Wii for an hour or so when weather's really nasty.

You will still get output from your panels on cloudy/rainy days, but not as much. On a dark night with a full moon, the panel has output.

I would get a 12vdc/usb charging cord and charge the Ipod,Iphone...from your 12vdc outlet. It takes more power to use the inverter and then convert back to 12vdc.

What i currently have:
- Single Trojan t-1275 150amp/h battery (darn Jayco x213 2013 battery rack, can't put 2x6v)
Get the welder out :-)
- Tracer MPPT 2210rn 20A controller

- 1000w continous true sine wave inverter
- Yamaha EF2000is that i'd like not to use (it's only for emergency)
- Kill a Watt measuring tool to see how much the AC stuff use
- a boat load of 10 awg gauge copper wire left from my shed project
- Most lights in RV are Led

what i plan to add/purchase:
- 2x100w 12v flexible panels = 200w (installed on the rear bunk slide out.)
How are you going to secure the panels in the UNEXPECTED event of a GUST of wind wippppps across your TT?
- 2x10 feet of 1 gauge welding cable
You may want to install welding cable sockets on the TT and Welding cable plugs on the SOLAR panel cable to just plug them in each time you set up?
- Trojan 27tmx to be bought for the minn kota trolling motor

The plan:
- install the 2 panels in parallel on the rear slide out (they are light and will be inside when the TT is stored, i don't want to drill anything on the roof)
Wire your 2 panels in series and you only have to deal with only one set of wires running from the panels to the MPPT controller. The benefit of that is that there is less voltage drop on the higher voltage from the panels. They sell connectors to accomplish that.
- link the panels to the MPPT controller about 8 feet away (using the MC4 or whatever connectors to the MPPT)
Mount your MPPT controller as close to the batteries as possible and run the longer length of wire from the higher voltage panel output. Less voltage drop.
Mount your Inverter as close to the batteries as possible.
The closer the less voltage drop and you will have more power.
- link the MPPT Controller to the Trojan t-1275 battery which is at the complete other end of the trailer on the tongue (25 feets or so) using the 10 AWG copper wire (grey outside wire)
- Link the Trojan t-1275 battery to the Inverter which I think will be about 6-8 feets away in the storage compartment using the #1 gauge battery wire

Most mfr. Recommend a few feet, but if that is as close as you can get it will have to do. The inverter mfr will recommend the size fuse to use, I used 300Amp ANL Fuses/holder
- Add one or two power outlets near the TV which is 10-15 feets away from the inverter outputs using the 10awg copper wire.
Sounds good
- add a bunch of inline fuse all along the way (30 amps + a 200 or 300 amps near the battery going to the inverter).
Install a 30 amp fuse between the Solar panel and the charge controller (30Amp), and a fuse between the charge controller and the battery. I also installed a disconnect switch between the panels and the charge controller.
Questions:
Did I get this all wrong??

Comments:
It's a great idea to extend the inverter plug to the shore plug (much easier) but oupps we might just use the Micro wave or TV too long and gone goes the battery... kids..

I rewired the AC breakers so that I have any thing I do not want to have on when dry-camping on separate breakers.

Enjoy!!!! Have a GREAT TIME

Don

[Jmooney]

Watching A DVD movie for 2 hours ( ~200 watts ) will consume close to 30amps from your battery. That's approaching the half way mark of your battery capacity. And will require quite a bit of recharge time on generator

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by xkuzme1

Just got my solar set up today. I have to admit, I was pretty happy with it. When I plugged it in, my volts on the battery was reading 12.3. Had a nice sunny day. 5 hours later it was at 13.4.

X

If you get a chance take a voltage reading at the peak sun time. The 13.4 is a float voltage (maintain a charged battery), so you would want to know how much the panels produce (voltage wise) in full sun. Did you by chance take a voltage reading prior to plugging the panel in? If you are really interested in knowing how much the system is producing you can accomplish this using a good multimeter with a 10Amp ckt. I know, now I have your curiosity going. I would recommend getting a volt display meter and plug it into your 12VDC outlet in the TT, so you can keep an eye on the batteries condition. If you are not afraid of doing a little wiring, get an AMP gauge also. There are a few posts with suggestions, do a search.
Don

[joyeux]

Hi Mustang,

Thank you so much for the suggestions.
- I ordered Batt 1/2 switches
- Panels will be permanently 3M doubled sided taped.
- The closest i can put is about 5-6 feets away ± the vertical length. (other than that i'd have to mod the TT to switch the the tougue propane tanks against a new battery tray. the newer 2014 have that but heck I'm not going to change for that

[xkuzme1]

OK Mustang... Here goes nuthin!

I still have the 60 watt solar panel, but I also just purchased a 120 watt set up as well. I am not sure if I will be wiring them together or keeping them separate. They are folding kits with carrying cases. I could wore them with plugs... But that is a different story.

I have found a place that will sell me two lightly used 6 volt Trojan batteries for $50 a piece.

I am looking into buying a pure sine wave inverter as well.

Here is my question regarding your set up and how it "jives" with my idea.

If I pull the fuse out of my battery line going to the camper, then my battery is completely off line from the camper.

If I were to connect up either my 120 or 180 watt system to my Trojan battery bank, could I then connect up a 1000 watt AC inverter, and plug my campers shore power into the inverter? I would unplug my microwave and throw the breaker on my AC, but theoretically I could supply my entire campers electrical system through the battery bank.

I know that some people (I think that is what you did too) install special 120 outlets that are directly wired to the AC inverter. What would be the harm in just using the campers electrical system already in use?

I am a slow, but I am learning.

I realize that doing this would open up some parasite draw, but not much on my camper. My fridge and my water heater dont require AC/dc. My detectors would run off of battery no matter the power source.

X

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by xkuzme1

OK Mustang... Here goes nuthin!

I still have the 60 watt solar panel, but I also just purchased a 120 watt set up as well. I am not sure if I will be wiring them together or keeping them separate. They are folding kits with carrying cases. I could wore them with plugs... But that is a different story.
Since all the panels are not the same wattage, I would recommend connecting them to their own Solar Charge controller and both charge controllers can be connected to the batteries with no issues. They will work together based on the batteries needs. This way if one is partially shaded, the other will continue producing and not be limited by the shaded panels.

I have found a place that will sell me two lightly used 6 volt Trojan batteries for $50 a piece.
What are the battery models/Ah?

I am looking into buying a pure sine wave inverter as well.
Based on what I know you should probably keep it at 1000 watts or less.

Here is my question regarding your set up and how it "jives" with my idea.

If I pull the fuse out of my battery line going to the camper, then my battery is completely off line from the camper.
True!

If I were to connect up either my 120 or 180 watt system to my Trojan battery bank, could I then connect up a 1000 watt AC inverter, and plug my campers shore power into the inverter?
Yes, that is how I wired my inverter so I do did not have to wire in new outlets. It works great! Look at my TT Solar album link below for a wiring diagram. I need to update the drawing with the 2 new breaker boxes.
I would unplug my microwave and throw the breaker on my AC, but theoretically I could supply my entire campers electrical system through the battery bank.
Yes, and you would only be limited to the power of your batteries


I know that some people (I think that is what you did too) install special 120 outlets that are directly wired to the AC inverter. What would be the harm in just using the campers electrical system already in use?

No, I wired my inverter's AC output (front storage compartment) to the shore power cable storage (rear storage compartment) and installed a 120VAC RV female outlet in a 4x4 electric box. See my album.

I am a slow, but I am learning.

I realize that doing this would open up some parasite draw, but not much on my camper. My fridge and my water heater dont require AC/dc. My detectors would run off of battery no matter the power source.

I would not worry about the draw of the Fride ckt board, or CO detector's ckt, or the radio's.

X

Hope I covered everything? Of course these are only my suggestions.
Sounds good to me. Have fun!!
Don

[Mustang65]

One more thing.
Before you invest your HARD EARNED $100 to buy those batteries, check them out:

- Open the caps and look at the water level, if it is close to the cells, odds are that the previous owner did not maintain them properly
- Look at the water is it cloudy
- Take a volt meter with you and check the voltage of the battery.. should be around 12.4 VDC min, if they kept it charged.. any lower may mean that they just had them sitting on the side with no charging.
- Check the date code on the batteries.. As a rule of thumb batteries hold a good charge for about 1000 cycles (easy way to look at a cycle is 1 cycle = 1 day) so that is about 3 years then they tend to lose some of their power.

Here is how to figure the date code on the Trojan batteries:
Positive Terminal- Manufacturing Date. This code indicates the actual date when mechanical assembly of the battery was completed. At this point, electrolyte has not been added to the battery and formation charging has not taken place. LETTER stands for the month and could be anything from A to L (A=January, B=February, C=March, and so on),; NUMBER stands for the date.
Negative Terminal- Shipping Date. This code indicates the month and year when the battery was shipped out of our factory. LETTER stands for the month (see below); NUMBER is the last digit of the year.

Example: A battery with "I26" stamped on the positive terminal and "J2" on the negative. "I26" means that the battery was assembled, without electrolyte, on September 26th. "J2" means that it was shipped from our factory around October of 2002.

There may not be a code on the Positive terminal and just one on the Negative terminal.

If you purchase them and you have the capability run them through an EQUALIZATION Stage (Equalization stage can produce voltages as high as 16 VDC, so do not do it with the camper electronics hooked up to them) This will remove any crystals that may have formed on the cells.
Don

[xkuzme1]

Thanks mustang. Frosty beverage to you!

X