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08-15-2016, 01:03 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 8
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Newbie question regarding leveling/stabilizing 22BHM
Hello all! I'm a new owner of a Jayco 22BHM and have a question regarding leveling the unit. I am also a first time-RVer so I apologize in advance for the potential stupidity of my question. Anywho, my question is, can I use the stabilizer jacks to level the unit? I have 4 jacks, and each one is rated for 2500 lbs and are welded to the I-beam. The 22BHM has a dry weight of 4100 lbs, so it seems they should be able to handle the weight. The manual however says to not use them to actually level the unit, and just use them as stabilizers. So, if I can't use them to level, I would like to understand why.
Thanks so much!
-David
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08-15-2016, 01:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Campbell Hall
Posts: 2,835
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The short answer: NO!
The TT has to be leveled by getting things under the low side tires (level left to right) and then the tongue jack for leveling front to back.
THEN you deploy the stabilizers to keep the TT from bouncing/tipping (generally more comfortable to live in).
If you attempt to level the TT with the stabilizers, you will bend the frame. The stabilizers are strong enough to lift the whole TT. Unfortunately the frame is NOT strong enough to lift the axels off the ground from the ends of the trailer.
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TT 2015 19RD "TheJayco"
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08-15-2016, 01:22 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Abingdon
Posts: 6,177
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In short no. Level the unit side-to-side first, then front to back. Stabilizers are only used to keep the unit from moving around. Levelers can lift the unit to level it and are a lot stronger.
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2013 Jayco Eagle 328 RLTS
2021 Keystone Montana 3121RL
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08-15-2016, 01:29 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 8
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Okay, thanks for the replies. Is there a recommended amount of weight I should put on the stabilizer jacks? I certainly don't want to damage the frame, but I do want it to be stabilized as much as possible.
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08-15-2016, 01:34 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Abingdon
Posts: 6,177
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Just crank them until they are good and snug against the ground, blocks, etc....that's it. I'm sure there's a weight guide...I just don't know what that is. Just make sure you have the trailer as level as you can side-to-side and front to back before putting the stabilizers down.
__________________
2013 Jayco Eagle 328 RLTS
2021 Keystone Montana 3121RL
2013 F350 6.7L 4x4 CCLB
W/Air Lift air bags (front & rear)
Equal-I-Zer™ WDH & B&W Companion
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08-15-2016, 01:42 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,767
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What they said and don't forget to retract them before hooking up.
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Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
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08-15-2016, 01:51 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 8
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Very good. Thanks all!
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08-15-2016, 02:54 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Kennesaw
Posts: 172
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Key word "STABILIZERS" not "Levelers". And Norty1 made a very important point, and to further it, make sure you raise your stabilizers (for sure the rear ones) before you try and jack up the front of your trailer to put it on the hitch. Failure to do so can cause damage to the stabilizers as you pick up the front of your trailer and push down on those rear stabilizers!!! I know from experience!
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08-15-2016, 03:06 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boston Suburbs
Posts: 302
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I use a cordless drill with a 3/4" socket (made for stabilizers) to lower and raise my stabilizers.
I set the drills clutch at the highest setting and lower them until the clutch slips.
This way I know all the stabilizers are at a relatively equal pressure to the ground.
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08-15-2016, 03:12 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southeast Missouri
Posts: 234
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We bought an inexpensive black & decker drill from an outlet mall. It has a clutch and we just clicked it down a couple of settings and let it crank till it slips. Not too tight on the jacks and they are all the same tension, if they settle a bit we just hit them with the drill again and still the same tension.
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David & Sandy Hinkle
2014 X23B
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08-15-2016, 08:00 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Missouri City, The Republic of Texas
Posts: 5,063
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I carry an 18" bubble level. When I hit the site I check side/side and add blocks as needed. Then unhitch, move the TV and level front/back with the tongue Jack and finally stabilize with the stab jacks.
Enjoy and w close to JOF!
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Cheers,
T_
2013 F-350 CC SB 2WD 6.7PS
2013 Eagle Premier 351 RLTS
-SOLD- 2012 X23B
-SOLD- 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4, Bilstein shocks
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08-16-2016, 09:17 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 8
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Cool -- good tips on using the drill's torque setting. Thanks so much everyone!
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08-18-2016, 04:50 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtosi
Cool -- good tips on using the drill's torque setting. Thanks so much everyone!
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I use a Ridgid cordless drill 1st, then I go once around with the hand crank to snug things up.
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08-30-2016, 03:04 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Myerstown
Posts: 159
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Very good tip on the clutch slip on the drill. I concur.
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Jamer
2015 Jayco 27DSRL (retired)
2018 HT 28.5 RSTS
2016 F-250 gas Super Duty Super Crew 8 ft. box.
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09-05-2016, 01:48 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Langley
Posts: 516
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Note .....I use blocks under my stabilizers to shorten the length ...the more vertical they are, the more movement you will feel. I also use X chocks between the tires.
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2012 Jayco Jayfeather X213
2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie Quad Cab 4x4
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