Running Refer on a power inverter?

phipp · 04-21-2014, 09:35 AM

Hello all,

I just want to get the views that people have on this subject. I would like to run my Norcold N302 on a DC power inverter. After looking at the parts list for the N302, the heater is a 120v/180w which comes out to 1.5 amps. Now on the flip side of that the DC amps are 16.6.

So like I was asking in the beginning what is everyones thoughts? Would you do it, have you done it or would you never do it? What are the dangers if any?

Thank you for all your help.

BrettSLC · 04-21-2014, 12:15 PM

So are you saying to run on an inverter as opposed to direct battery or gas?

16A is quite high, I would be surprised if that was correct.

I personally run mine on AC and then switch to gas when AC power goes away.

phipp · 04-21-2014, 12:20 PM

Well to give an insight on why I am asking. We have a 2013 Jayco 185RB, the refer has been replaced due to a design flaw from Norcold. Now the new refer will n0ot stay lit on propane, dealer claims that it was a gas pressure problem.

Now my wheels start to turn and I think what if we go for a 2 week vacation and the propane does not work. That is why I was wondering what peoples thoughts are on running the refer on an inverter if the propane acts up again.

Imnaha.Mansion · 04-21-2014, 12:45 PM

My father in law had problems with his Fridge, turn out it was the propane regulator. Easy and relatively in expensive.

phipp · 04-21-2014, 12:47 PM

That is what the dealer says that the regular was bad. So given that the refer has been the source of heartburn in the short year that we have owned it. I was just trying to implement a backup to the propane.

Imnaha.Mansion · 04-21-2014, 01:00 PM

On shore power, no problem just run off electric.
Boondocking, extra batteries, Inverter, Solar Charger, Charge Controller, ....
Maybe cheaper to just cary an extra Regulator. Of coarse with the other stuff your free to stay longer and it can run other stuff too.

Bluestreak · 04-21-2014, 01:59 PM

Dealer claims and issues aside, where will you get the DC power to run the inverter to run the frige on AC?

While driving, you *could* run a separate 12 volt line from the battery properly sized to handle the load, with something like an Andesen connector to keep the connection solid.

Powering the system from batteries is going to take a pretty big bank and from a generator, pretty noisy...

Jmooney · 04-21-2014, 02:04 PM

16 amps per hour is a lot to give from you battery array.

If you have two group 27 batteries, and want to stay within the 50% use range then you have approx 100 amps DC to give.

100/16 is 6 1/4 hours.

If the fridge cycles on and off every 15 minutes, you will get 24 hours...... Assuming your not running anything else.

Perhaps I'm wrong.....

phipp · 04-21-2014, 02:08 PM

I am looking at this solution for, if I am drive and the propane will not stay lit, then I would turn on the inverter until we get to a campground then use shore power. This would not be a 3 option to run the refer. Just a fail safe option.

Jmooney · 04-21-2014, 02:13 PM

That will work

Seann45 · 04-23-2014, 09:47 AM

You can, and should, turn the fridge off while you drive.. it will hold temp for over 6 hours if you dont open the door.. When you stop for lunch turn the fridge back on till you leave again..

wwsmith111 · 04-23-2014, 05:22 PM

I have my 1000w inverter (200w surge) hooked into one side of the 50 amp service where it can drive the tv, microwave and fridge at the same time. This is in case I need to run the fridge off the inverter which I do when going down the road instead of using propane which the fridge will do automatically when no ac power is present. I have a remote on/off for the inverter mounted inside the RV. The inverter itself is mounted close to the batteries and hooks to the batteries (2 group 27 exides)with heavy duty inverter cables. Of course the main purpose for the inverter was to power the tv and microwave when boondocking or just stopping for lunch or in a rest area for the night. The inverter cost $69 at a Pilot truck stop and the remote switch was $15 from amazon. The cables I already had from a previous project.

Scott · 04-25-2014, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jmooney

16 amps per hour is a lot to give from you battery array.

If you have two group 27 batteries, and want to stay within the 50% use range then you have approx 100 amps DC to give.

100/16 is 6 1/4 hours.

If the fridge cycles on and off every 15 minutes, you will get 24 hours...... Assuming your not running anything else.

Perhaps I'm wrong.....

I've always run my fridge on AC while at the campground and on DC while driving. I turn it off at stops longer than a gas up. The alternator from the truck charges the batteries in route and the fridge uses battery power. Am I wrong with this? Is the fridge drawing more power than the alternator is providing? So far all my trips have been less than 3 hours but we are taking our first long vacation with the trailer this year with a 600 mile tow so will I have trouble if I do this? I am woefully ignorant about electrical matters.

Thanks.

Jmooney · 04-25-2014, 10:19 AM

I think that's what he is saying - only running on inverter while driving, so yes - I think the truck will keep up with the power consumption

I just didn't want other readers to think that always running on Inverter was not a power issue

phipp · 04-25-2014, 10:25 AM

Thank you all for your thoughts. As I said before I am just a little gun shy about trusting the refer on propane, not because I think that it is unsafe but I have had the flame blow out and had food loss. The trailer is back in the dealer as I type this for the refer not working on propane. I think that this makes it number 5 for the same appliance. The dealer has replaced the refer, propane regular and what ever else, so we will see what happens.

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